2016 POTD Thread Archive

In NASA'a defense...
Thank you. The fact is we know exactly what happens when NASA is not that thorough. The Challenger shuttle disaster was the result of a faulty o-ring (both bad specification for the unusually cold launch conditions and showing signs of deterioration). If it weren't for the incredibly rigorous process of both design and analysis of all things NASA, how many more such disasters would there have been?

Here is a cool tribute to those who were lost in such incidents (even if it's not your style, it's worth it to hear the whole song):


(Incidentally, for anyone interested in music, recording, audio engineering, etc., there is a fascinating interview about that song here: http://www.songexploder.net/the-long-winters)
 
Couldn't resist using a 25% Harbor Freight Labor Day coupon, bought a $900 7 x 12 metal cutting band saw for $675. My 30-year old 4 x 6 saw was pretty worn, drive wheel wobbled about 1" at its edge.

I've only made a couple of cuts, but so far so good. Fit/finish is nice, instruction manual is pretty good by HF standards. We'll see how the plastic wheels and blow-molded plastic pulley guard hold up over time. I've read that the supplied 6 tpi blade is garbage, so I've got $80 worth of bi-metal blades on order. My first cut was through a 2" CRS round, took about 45 seconds.

Attached pictures are of the crate under the cardboard box, "some assembly required" parts box contents, "under the hood" and my first cut. The cut was very close to perfectly square. Only thing I may do is try to bend the base slightly so the coolant runs back into the reservoir. The base is nearly perfectly flat so a lot of coolant sets on the pan after a cut. Might be easier to make a second drain in a back corner and run a second hose to the reservoir. The balance is a little heavy for moving it around, the saw does weigh around 350 lbs. but moving the wheels forward 6" would make it a lot easier to move around. Still impressed (so far) with the saw.

Bruce

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I got the Northern Tool version of that same saw. I'm very happy with mine.
 
Bruce...
My HF coupon says it is only good on Monday, Labor Day... How did you score early???

Bill
 
Only thing I may do is try to bend the base slightly so the coolant runs back into the reservoir. The base is nearly perfectly flat so a lot of coolant sets on the pan after a cut. Might be easier to make a second drain in a back corner and run a second hose to the reservoir. The balance is a little heavy for moving it around, the saw does weigh around 350 lbs. but moving the wheels forward 6" would make it a lot easier to move around. Still impressed (so far) with the saw.

Bruce
Hmmmm ... If you decide to move the wheels, might you be able to either use slightly larger ones at one end, or else mount one set with a spacer, to slightly tilt the base/pan toward the drain?
 
Bruce...
My HF coupon says it is only good on Monday, Labor Day... How did you score early???

Bill
Hi Bill,

My coupon says it's good from Thursday, 9/1 to Monday, 9/5. Might have to go back for one of those small welding tables (they go on sale for under $60 all the time).

Bruce

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Hmmmm ... If you decide to move the wheels, might you be able to either use slightly larger ones at one end, or else mount one set with a spacer, to slightly tilt the base/pan toward the drain?
Hi John,

Problem is the base under the saw is dead flat (haven't checked with a level or straight edge). So if it's perfectly level the coolant doesn't want to "find" the drain. I'll probably just drill a hole at the back corner of the pan and make a catch basin with a hose on the bottom that routes back to the reservoir. Then just bias the leveling feet to run the coolant to the back corner. I had to do a similar thing on my Grizzly G0709 lathe. The chip pan drain is under the tail stock end, but the chip pan is level. I welded a shim under the pan drawer glide on the LH side so the coolant runs to the drain.

I may get really creative or anal and put a collection box with a lid in it, kinda like a septic tank. That way the chips and coolant hit the box and the chips settle on the bottom (or float?). Have a divider on the bottom and top to keep the chips from flowing to the outlet back to the reservoir if that makes sense. I have a similar arrangement on my woodworking dust collector. Have a box with a lid between the collector and whatever it's hooked to. Big chucks hit the box and drop, keeps 3/4" square chucks from hitting the collector's impeller. Or, just use a chip brush or squeegee and work the coolant to the drain after cutting.

Bruce
 
Hi John,

Problem is the base under the saw is dead flat (haven't checked with a level or straight edge). So if it's perfectly level the coolant doesn't want to "find" the drain. I'll probably just drill a hole at the back corner of the pan and make a catch basin with a hose on the bottom that routes back to the reservoir. Then just bias the leveling feet to run the coolant to the back corner.
That's kinda what I was trying to say, with regard to the wheels (which it sounded like you were going to re-position anyway). But with leveling feet on the base, it should be no tribble a'tall :)

PS - Thanks for the coupon image. I'm pretty sure mine was 20% for the 5 days and 25% for Labor Day only. Now I can try going there before the mad rush!
 
The young lad got himself a 125 dirt bike. Wanted a back rack for camping gear. We came up with this today. Found some 5/8 tubing from an old bed frame, the right dia for the tubing bender I built. My steel welding wire has gotten rather tarnished, was getting lots of porosity with the Tig, tried stainless rod, does that ever weld nice.

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Greg
 
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