2016 POTD Thread Archive

[f350ca]

Thanks, Im pretty proud of my rack

 

[savarin]

Almost finished making a nut.
I needed an 18mm x 1.25 pitch nut. At $20.00 each they must be joking.
I didnt have an internal threading tool I could use so I tried using an 8 x 1.25 mm tap as the cutter.
I set the change gears to reflect this and set the tap just above centre to ensure there was plenty of clearance as suggested by Harold Hall.

Very impressed, easy and fast. I dont think I will single point internal threads again after this unless a tap wont fit.
Proof, I very nice fit.

Its the main fixing for the tilting vertical slide.
Now I suppose I have to make a filing rest so I can get the flats sorted.

Your not supposed to notice the elongated hole

 

[T Bredehoft]

elongated hole

Isn't that for adjustment?

 

[savarin]

Isn't that for adjustment?

Of course, an undocumented design feature.

 

[TOOLMASTER]

DONE for the day...snapped the pinion gear on my drill press....then 5 minutes later seized the bearing on my sander........

 

[kvt]

Ok, what were you working on, to do that much damage to both tools.

 

[TOOLMASTER]

aluminum..lol

 

[johnnyc14]

I wanted to replace the ugly old rusty chrome front engine mount on the XS650 project bike. I stole this design from another member of the XS650 Forum. The only welded part will be the large washers attached to each plate at the engine. This is an image provided by Ristis on the XS650 forum.





I’m going to use metal I have on hand, not stainless like Ristis did. I started with the old mount and clamped it to the mill table with the bolt holes vertical. The holes are 10mm and I have some pieces of 10mm drill rod that are a perfect fit so I used one of them to locate the holes and plot them on my DRO.





With the holes plotted I drilled three 10mm (.390”) holes in a piece of 5/16” plate steel and checked the fit with 3 lengths of drill rod and they lined up perfectly with the old mount.








Then I drew a rough outline around the bolt holes to mimic the shape of the original mount, my goal was to leave at least ½” from the edge of the holes. I cut it out using my Portaband saw on a vertical stand I built.





I set the piece up in the vise using the drill rods to get the holes horizontal and milled all 3 sides flat with equal spacing from the edge. Then test fit it on the engine/frame.








Perfect fit. Then I just had to make another one and use the first one and drill rods to mill them both the same.










Then I mounted both pieces on my rotary table and made a radius on all the corners.











I installed the bolt through the engine cases and tightened it so I could measure the space between the plates and frame tube to make the outer spacers. The left side measured .590” and the right is .555”. I enlarged the 2 frame mount holes in my plates to .625" then I machined 2 spacers for the left side with .590” of .980” diameter and .600” of .626” diameter. The .626” part is a .001” interference fit into the plate and the center spacer. I pressed the spacers into the plate and test fit the parts. Perfect so far.








That’s it for today.


John

 

[4GSR]

Finally got the retainer nut made that goes on the back end of the spindle on my 14" Rockwell lathe. This is to replace the original nut removed by the person that stole the collet attachment off this lathe before I bought it. I made this one a bit longer so it will stick out a enough to add either a "spider" or a small 3-Jaw chuck to tail end of the spindle to support long tubes/rods, or gun barrels? Next is to get it mounted on the spindle. Try to get that done tomorrow. Then the lathe will be be ready for power! I have a portable rotary phase converter built that I will use to power the lathe by for now until I get it moved into a more permanent home. It's being stored on my trailer for now.

Attached Files:



Ken

 

[Charles Spencer]

I got a good deal on five insert heads the other day. They all have the same mount which is two inches across. So I made a 3/4" arbor to hold them.