2017 POTD Thread Archive

Tony Wells said:
I have a bigger brother of yours. A 24" G& E. Nice, heavy machine off a naval vessel, but converted from DC to 3 phase. At least on a rack the tools are simpler to grind. You have the manual for yours? Mine may well cover yours as well if you need a copy.
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Tony,

I don't have a manual, the only one remotely applicaple is one for a Mitts and Mills U.S. Navy publication. I would love to have a copy of your manual.
thank you for the kind offer

Mike
 
I'll start scanning Mike. I'll upload it here and post a link when I get it all up. It's not huge, but it's pretty good. Hope it's close. It needs to be here anyway.
 
JR49 said:
I'm certainly not inferring that you guys are wrong about the HF helmet, BUT, please give me more info. Psychodelicdan, what is different about the HF hood that would make me not be able to see? Sanddan, I also see your point, BUT, lets face it, in this "Global economy", every one of us can site examples of paying 3X more for a "brand name" product, only to find out later that it was made in the same Off shore factory that the no name product was made in. Having said this, I must admit the HF hood is the only auto hood I've ever used, however I only got it after seeing a mechanic/welder for a large const. co. using one, and asking him about it. He told me he had been using it for a few years now and has had no problems. I don't do a lot of welding but when I have a project, I will sometimes weld for 6-8 hrs. straight, with cutting and fitting times in between of course. I always figured that since I have never suffered from the "sand in the eyes" type flash burns, at night, after a day of welding, then the hood is doing its job. BUT PLEASE, for the sake of my 67 year old eyes, if I'm wrong tell me how I'm wrong and, cheap or not, I will go right out and buy a more expensive Hood. Any, and All comments greatly appreciated. JR49
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We are not pros so when we normally weld it is small things but one project was over a weekend with many welds and later the eyes hurt badly.

Change in light level stung badly as the muscles to move pupil hurt.

The hf helmet needs to have all of the reflective stuff painted over with flat black paint and that should reduce that problem but cannot speak to anything else.

We do blink as we pull trigger to cheat a bit.

And our eyes not real good for close work to just wear single vision glasses.

For those who use bifocals get a custom lense as it is easy...Ask the person measuring eyes for "occupational lenses" d have them slide the card to the distance you work and dial it in.

We did that for our clock bench with added power and it is great for that but nothing else.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
Reeltor said:
Cascao, Did you anodize or paint it? If paint, wouldn't the paint interfere with the heat exchange? Or not so much that it doesn't matter?
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This yellow one (OEM GasGas power parts) was anodized. (yes, paint is a isolation layer) But the ones I made was left natural aluminium (sometimes coated with mud).
 
tq60 said:
We are not pros so when we normally weld it is small things but one project was over a weekend with many welds and later the eyes hurt badly.

Change in light level stung badly as the muscles to move pupil hurt.

The hf helmet needs to have all of the reflective stuff painted over with flat black paint and that should reduce that problem but cannot speak to anything else.

We do blink as we pull trigger to cheat a bit.

And our eyes not real good for close work to just wear single vision glasses.

For those who use bifocals get a custom lense as it is easy...Ask the person measuring eyes for "occupational lenses" d have them slide the card to the distance you work and dial it in.

We did that for our clock bench with added power and it is great for that but nothing else.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
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When I did cad 8 hours a day I had a set of glasses for the computer that were a single focal distance, similar to what you are talking about. It worked great until someone came to my desk to talk about a project. I found I was swapping them back and forth a lot but still was better than trying to see using my progressive bifocals.

I use the magnifier's in my welding helmet, made all the difference when tig welding.
 
Had to do some slotting today in several parts of the same. I made some all thread that was a little on the small side and it needed a slot going all the way down its length. I also wanted the slot to be centered and burr free. So, I made a jig that would hold the little all thread. I threaded the clamping area of the jig so that when I cut the slot the threads would keep the burrs in check on the all thread. I also made the jig help align the slotting blade to be on center with the all thread. This prevents any miss alignment with the blade and it controls the blade from wandering. It all worked out great…Dave
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JR49 said:
Actually, I do use the cheap 2.5x reading glasses while welding. I've often wondered if the cheater lens would work better. I know it would be more convenient, but not sure if it would actually help me see better. Now before anyone says it, I'm not THAT cheap, that I don't want to buy the lens to try it out, but I would also have to buy a new helmet. My HF helmet does not have anything on the inside to mount the cheater lens. Come to think of it, I guess using a HF helmet does make me cheap. Oh well, Anybody got any suggestions? JR49
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I have also used cheaters but sometimes I experience internal glare or reflections from the glasses on the helmet lens. They do really help though.
 
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