Another obligatory New PM-833TV and PM-1340GT Ordered!

Christianstark said:
That’s interesting. I never considered that. So I could run 4 wires to each machine location, and power the 220v motors as well as all the 110v accessories, like DRO and power feed. I think I will up my breaker to 30A, and run 2 x 10 Gauge x 4 conductor legs.
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If you're running 8 wires #10 THHN (stranded) in conduit, you will need 3/4" EMT, not 1/2".

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B2 said:
Maybe by the time you get your machine I will have posted my design for the VFD conversion. I'm >95% complete on the conversion of my PM1440GT to VFD. The difference with mine from most of the others I have seen is that it is solid state. I got rid of all of the big clunky contactors /relays, the big transformer etc. and so I then had room in the back of the stand hole to put "everything" including the VFD and power braking resistor. I still need to built a mount for my proximity detector and need to get a small panel connector for its cable. It all seems to work great and seems to fullfil all of the safety requirements. Once, I figured it out the electronics were simple and cheap. As is proably always the case, the wiring logistics was the biggest deal. --- Dave
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Very interested to see what you have come up with. Is there an existing thread yet?


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Spoke to my cousin who owns a commercial electrical company in NY, and he informed me that pulling 110V off of a 220V dedicated line -

"It’s not good practice to pull off a dedicated circuit. The motors (VFD in my case) probably don’t need a neutral. 3 wires for motor black, red, green and then pull a 20amp 12 gauge circuit for the 110v loads ."

What are ya'lls thoughts on this? Does this fall into the "Code is iffy but it should be fine" or is there potential to harm things wired to it? I was also thinking I could have 2 banks of 110V outlets at each machine...One switched with a 220V switch for machine power, and one un-switched where it is always energized.
 
Many appliance use 4 wires and break out 120 and 240. You could use a MCCB breaker to break out the 120 at the machine. I use a 2 pole breaker and pull two banks of 120V (two dual gang sockets) One factor is you need to consider the additional load and a circuit imbalance effects on the panel breaker and also these days sockets in garages are suppose be on GFCI. I am not sure what the difference is between a main panel breaker with a local MCCB breaker for sockets vs. two main panel breakers one for the machine and one for the sockets each sized accordingly. Industrial machines that need 120V feed a transformer from two legs of 3 phase. You could check with a local electrician about your local electrical codes.
 
Good stuff. I think at this point, knowing I need less than 20 feet or so of conduit, I think I may just pull 12 gauge on a 20 amp breaker for each machine, and run a single 110v leg for both machine locations. More straight forward than adding smaller breakers at the split, and worrying about balance. Thanks for the great explanation.

mksj said:
Many appliance use 4 wires and break out 120 and 240. You could use a MCCB breaker to break out the 120 at the machine. I use a 2 pole breaker and pull two banks of 120V (two dual gang sockets) One factor is you need to consider the additional load and a circuit imbalance effects on the panel breaker and also these days sockets in garages are suppose be on GFCI. I am not sure what the difference is between a main panel breaker with a local MCCB breaker for sockets vs. two main panel breakers one for the machine and one for the sockets each sized accordingly. Industrial machines that need 120V feed a transformer from two legs of 3 phase. You could check with a local electrician about your local electrical codes.
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When I was heading to bed last night it dawned on me that it would be helpful for me to be able to figure out a way to cut power to the auto feed when power is lost to the mill. Not a big deal on the lathe, but if the mill lost power, and the auto feed was on a separate breaker, it could keep running and break a cutting tool, mess up tram, ruin the part, all in now swipe. Will be researching on routing power to the mill in a way that would help facilitate this.

I know the 833TV comes with a VFD installed. Does anyone know offhand if that VFD is programable by the user?
 
The inverter is shown at the end of the 833VT manual. I cannot imagine that it is not programmable, but it looks like it might be a custom design.... not like a standard after market self contained VFD, but on a circuit board with external display etc. There is a unused cable connector in the center - right that might be used to program it. Sometimes these are for connecting a keyboard. The board has some numbers on it and what appears to be DYNA-06 but the display cable blocks the view. So the trick is, can you find a part number and a manual. Lots of VFD's out there will little or no documentation!

If you really want to know ask Matt (PM). He is very helpful
Christianstark said:
Very interested to see what you have come up with. Is there an existing thread yet?


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Not yet. I need to do more documentation. -- Dave
 
The inverter is not programmable. If you loose power it would also shut down the power feed. The down side is if the power came back on the power feed would restart, the VFD I do not know.
 
Question for someone with a PM1340GT. Trying to get a dimension between the top point of the prismatic ways. Trying to plan ahead for leveling.

Thanks!
 
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