Cutting oil vs Old motor oil and non-detergent oil

Are there any concerns about residual salt in bacon grease? I have noticed that lard is still available in supermarkets though.
 
woochucker said:
I forgot he did mention bacon grease.. but in my mind that would get rancid w/o refrigeration ... NO?
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if you leave bacon grease in the refrigerator, it will stay good for a year or so- i don't usually try to store large quantities
one thing that does seem to help preserve it is to add mineral oil or ND30 wt oil to the bacon grease, up to 50%
Kerosene, when mixed with bacon grease will also keep pathogens in check.

RJSakowski said:
Are there any concerns about residual salt in bacon grease? I have noticed that lard is still available in supermarkets though.
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Hi Bob,
i personally have not seen any ill effects of the salt present- my machinery has not rusted or pitted from the use of bacon grease.
i do see the potential for rust, but i have not experienced any
lard would be an excellent substitute
 
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woochucker said:
The other night I had a conversation with a friend. He's a gunsmith, his dad was a machinist. We were talking about my mill.
He said I should not use SAE 20 for the 8520, that I should use non-detergent 30 wt oil, that detergent will corrode the mill. This I believe to be true, but just checking is he correct.
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If the detergent in oil would corrode the mill, why is it used in automotive engines? I would think it would corrode the exposed metal parts like the crankshaft, the lifters, etc. I had been lad to believe that the reason for not using oil containing detergent was that it kept particulate iun suspension so the car's filter could remove them but in a machine without a filter it prevented them from settling out, increasing wear.
 
Detergent oil will hold the particles in suspension. Tis the filter's job to remove them. Since we don't have an active filtration system, it's best to let the oil shred the debris.


Any thoughts on using used automotive antifreeze as a coolant? Just a weird thought, and I generate lots of the stuff.
 
fradish said:
Honestly if you want to use motor oil as cutting oil, a 2 gallon jug of SAE20 (roughly equivalent
to ISO68) non-detergent motor oil goes for around $20 at TractorSupply. Not as cheap as used
motor oil, but you can use this to lubricate your mill or lathe as well. For my lathe and mill gear
boxes I will still use Mobil DTE Heavy/Medium (ISO68), but I have used the SAE20 to flush out
my lathe gear box once. The oil from the factory got really black after break in and I didn't want
to waste the more expensive Mobil oil only to get that fouled up too. I used the SAE20 for a few
weeks, then drained it, and then refilled with the Mobil.

To me the new clean oil is nicer to work with and makes less of a mess. If I wanted to quench after
hardening, or to oil blacken a part, used motor oil would probably be the way to go, but as a
cutting oil, I'm sure it would work, I'm just not a fan.
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It's not about being THAT cheap.
But he told me it cuts better than most cutting fluids. My thought was due to the carbon exhaust bypass and metal.. but not sure, and as Ulma Dr said it contains sulfur from use.
I would not think regular motor oil would be better than most cutting fluids, but I can believe that used might actually have that edge.
 
Ethylene glycol antifreeze is toxic. It attacks the liver. I lost a pedigreed beagle to it. The newer OAT antifreeze is just plain nasty. When exposed to air, it forms nasty orange gunge.
 
With low to no sulfur fuels there is only the original sulfur that the oil came with, but carbon and other contaminants from the fuels will get in. The filter systems came in only after WW2, and we were still changing the oil on a short period. Today's oil are so much different today. Acids and water are the real reason we change the oils regularly today. When the oil companies were forced to remove sulfur from diesel, look at all the trouble that caused with the pressure/injector pumps. Sulfur was the main lubricant for the pumps.

Black oil has a high sulfur for improved high pressure lubrication at the contact point. Best finish yes but any lube is better than none in most cases.
Pierre
 
I use a witches brew. Chain saw blade bar oil( it's sticky and thick ) with 1/8th part of moly Dee oil . Great for drilling, turning and milling. It stays on the tool or part. Too thick? Add your favorite thinner to it. Kerosene, paint thinner.
 
I do mix oils and penetrates, gear oil , chain oil, acetone all kinds depends on what I'm using it for and have on hand. If I want to clean and lube , trans fluid, acetone, kerosene, marvel mystery oil. In equal parts used in a pressurized quart sprayer. My cutting oil has been used hydraulic oil and some gear oil mixed few ounces of gear oil to the quart. Just to add some stick to the oil.
What ever I like the way it works. Marvel oil and kerosene for aluminum .
Just some of my fluids.
 
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