- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
- Messages
- 438
Could be worse I suppose. The part numbers are the same in the two different cross slides. Disappointing not being able to finish.
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My Logan 820 Lathe Journey
- Thread starter wachuko
- Start date
Wachuko,
I don't know how I've missed this incredible saga for so long, although most of it was in late 2022, and I was off this board for most of 22 and 23. I also have an 820 (end of 1943 issue), and while I've restored much of it as I've been able, my knowledge, skills, and overall wherewithal to dismantle it and work on it in my very small shop has kept me from doing much of what I'd like to do to restore it, which you have done. You have my complete admiration for the restoration you've done, and with a 912 waiting patiently on the lift for you to finish!
I haven't studied most of the last 20 pages of this long post, but I think you haven't taught yourself how to do single-threading yet. It intimidated the living hell out of me for quite awhile, then our shared friend Mark (Winky on youtube) got me doing it, and I've happily and often done 36 and 42 tpi threads, shallow ones of course, in soft materials using either my HSS threading tool (I cut my regular tools using Mikey's methods here) or the ER carbide insert tool. Single pointing is not optional for me, since most threading I do is not to standard diameters. Internal threading is one of my upcoming adventures.
As for accessories/tooling, I went the AXA route, and purchased a Beall collet chuck for my ER32 collets, which I use most of the time. I also have decent 3J and 4J, and a very small 4J that I'm going to be using for very small pieces. I have not added a DRO, so want to study your installation carefully, although I doubt I'll be doing one. Since almost all of my work is small, I use a MT2 dead center extender or a long thin live center much of the time, and just bought a MT3 dead center for the headstock to work between centers.
The only real modification I've made is the cross-slide cover: a friend with a mill made a flat cover for me to replace the annoying sloped original, since there was no way I could put a Noga mag base with an indicator anywhere near the work otherwise and the sloped cover was just wasted real estate. I did change half nuts awhile ago, made a huge difference.
I'm still a bit mystified with that clutch mechanism you have/had on your apron. Mine is just a wheel, as in your picture. How did the other work?
So, congratulations again on an outstanding job; I look forward to seeing you use it. Do feel free to ask if there is any issue I might help you clarify.
Tim
I don't know how I've missed this incredible saga for so long, although most of it was in late 2022, and I was off this board for most of 22 and 23. I also have an 820 (end of 1943 issue), and while I've restored much of it as I've been able, my knowledge, skills, and overall wherewithal to dismantle it and work on it in my very small shop has kept me from doing much of what I'd like to do to restore it, which you have done. You have my complete admiration for the restoration you've done, and with a 912 waiting patiently on the lift for you to finish!
I haven't studied most of the last 20 pages of this long post, but I think you haven't taught yourself how to do single-threading yet. It intimidated the living hell out of me for quite awhile, then our shared friend Mark (Winky on youtube) got me doing it, and I've happily and often done 36 and 42 tpi threads, shallow ones of course, in soft materials using either my HSS threading tool (I cut my regular tools using Mikey's methods here) or the ER carbide insert tool. Single pointing is not optional for me, since most threading I do is not to standard diameters. Internal threading is one of my upcoming adventures.
As for accessories/tooling, I went the AXA route, and purchased a Beall collet chuck for my ER32 collets, which I use most of the time. I also have decent 3J and 4J, and a very small 4J that I'm going to be using for very small pieces. I have not added a DRO, so want to study your installation carefully, although I doubt I'll be doing one. Since almost all of my work is small, I use a MT2 dead center extender or a long thin live center much of the time, and just bought a MT3 dead center for the headstock to work between centers.
The only real modification I've made is the cross-slide cover: a friend with a mill made a flat cover for me to replace the annoying sloped original, since there was no way I could put a Noga mag base with an indicator anywhere near the work otherwise and the sloped cover was just wasted real estate. I did change half nuts awhile ago, made a huge difference.
I'm still a bit mystified with that clutch mechanism you have/had on your apron. Mine is just a wheel, as in your picture. How did the other work?
So, congratulations again on an outstanding job; I look forward to seeing you use it. Do feel free to ask if there is any issue I might help you clarify.
Tim
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 3,886
Tim,
Thank you for the kind words. Let me see if I can answer a few of the questions...
1. I still have not tried to make threads... soon, soon. I want to try single point threading... I will give it a try after I move everthing from the house in Orlando... soon...
2. Clutch mechanism that came with the lathe was actually pretty cool and easier to use than the stock wheel that I installed afterwards. You would just pull the lever and the clutch engaged. Much, much easier than turning the wheel. I am thinking of going back to it now that I replaced the broken bearings.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2014
- Messages
- 438
Jamie & Tim, the lever is stock, but from a later lathe. There are two change points, both by serial number and the second by the change to "18XX."
The first change was in mid 1949 with serial number 50844. The cross slide compound mount changed from the two bolts to the single pintle/spud/spigot. And the engineer type drawings replaced with the exploded parts drawings.
The second change in April '53 with S/N 664400 to the 18XX included the flat belt to vee belt spindle, the lever clutch/assembly, and a completely different saddle. The saddle lost the bushing and it was replaced with a bolt on "bracket" and the idler gear is different. May be some other apron changes, I haven't studied it. You can get both the 8XX and 18XX manuals from Vintage Machinery if you want to see the differences.
I've replaced my 820 cross slide with the later type, but not the saddle or apron.
Ron
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 3,886
Lever clutch, correct. But not the contraption that I had. That was/is aftermarket...
A few photos of the lever in this thread:
Show us your Logan lathes!
Here's my 1945 model Logan 200 Lathe. I found it on Craigslist. The guy said he bought it from a machine shop in Springfield, MO about fifteen years ago. His son's name is Logan and he had planned to clean it up for him but never did. I paid him $500 for it. It had a lot of surface rust which...
www.hobby-machinist.com
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 3,886
No, no, no... all good man... This was something that I learned with your post. Thank you. I was not aware that they had switched to the lever. That was great to learn.
...wish I had that lever...but I am pretty quick with the knob and when I'm working in close to the chuck I don't take my hand off it while turning. I'm lefthanded anyway, so my right hand isn't tempted to do anything else but hang on to that knob.
Tim
Tim
