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- Sep 28, 2013
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I really don't know what that pointing is for but it sure looks pretty!
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New Cromwell S800 MK3 Lathe
- Thread starter valleyboy101
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 314
Hi Matthemuppet,
It is variously called (and can be googled) as engine turning, spotting, and jeweling. It is done by applying abrasive to the part to be decorated and then in my case using milling machine to press a spinning dowel against the work for a few seconds - leaving a circular spot. Then move it table 1/2 the diameter of the dowel and press down again. Keep on going many times and you have a pattern.
Glad you like it, I got the manual this week and the it was a feature of the lathe as it came from the factory.
Michael
It is variously called (and can be googled) as engine turning, spotting, and jeweling. It is done by applying abrasive to the part to be decorated and then in my case using milling machine to press a spinning dowel against the work for a few seconds - leaving a circular spot. Then move it table 1/2 the diameter of the dowel and press down again. Keep on going many times and you have a pattern.
Glad you like it, I got the manual this week and the it was a feature of the lathe as it came from the factory.
Michael
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 314
Hi Matthemuppet,
It is variously called (and can be googled) as engine turning, spotting, and jeweling. It is done by applying abrasive to the part to be decorated and then in my case using milling machine to press a spinning dowel against the work for a few seconds - leaving a circular spot. Then move it table 1/2 the diameter of the dowel and press down again. Keep on going many times and you have a pattern.
Glad you like it, I got the manual this week and the it was a feature of the lathe as it came from the factory.
Michael
It is variously called (and can be googled) as engine turning, spotting, and jeweling. It is done by applying abrasive to the part to be decorated and then in my case using milling machine to press a spinning dowel against the work for a few seconds - leaving a circular spot. Then move it table 1/2 the diameter of the dowel and press down again. Keep on going many times and you have a pattern.
Glad you like it, I got the manual this week and the it was a feature of the lathe as it came from the factory.
Michael
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,306
so is spotting for aesthetics only or is it similar to flaking surfaces to retain oil? Not that it can't be both of course.
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 314
Yes as for as I know it is just eye candy, and although it does trap a certain amount of oil I've never heard of it being used for that purpose, on sliding surfaces etc.
Michael
Michael
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,306
well it certainly succeeds at being eye candy, it looks beautiful
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 314
I've made some decent progress over the last couple of days - with the wind chill in the -30's it is a pleasure to work inside.
The cross slide and compound are both back together, the motor has its shaft turned down from 1" to the required 3/4", and the motor booster is ready to bolt in. Motor booster may not be a common term but the shaft of the drive motor is exactly 1" lower than the generator shaft which it couples to. So the motor needs a boost. I had some 1 x 4" inch steel that just had to be cut to length. Now it is drilled and countersunk for the bolts which will hold it to the base of the lathe and drilled and tapped for the motor hold down bolts.
The motor is originally from a table saw, and I think it is a 2 phase although I'm not sure that is the correct term. It doesn't have a speed switch but does have a large, remote mount capacitor. My thought is that it uses the phase shift from the capacitor to provide torque for starting and running.
I received the manual from Tony Griffith's site (10 days after order) and the electrical diagram is a great help. It gives instructions for switching it from 550 V 3 ph, to 230 V 1 ph, and then to 230 V 1 ph. I am going to put my faith in them - at least til they are proven wrong. Looks promising as when you change from 550 V to 230 V all that you do is bypass the transformer. ie the rectifier is 230 V single phase rather than 550 V
With a little luck it could be "power up Friday"
I have attached some pics below.
Thanks for your comments,
Michael
The cross slide and compound are both back together, the motor has its shaft turned down from 1" to the required 3/4", and the motor booster is ready to bolt in. Motor booster may not be a common term but the shaft of the drive motor is exactly 1" lower than the generator shaft which it couples to. So the motor needs a boost. I had some 1 x 4" inch steel that just had to be cut to length. Now it is drilled and countersunk for the bolts which will hold it to the base of the lathe and drilled and tapped for the motor hold down bolts.
The motor is originally from a table saw, and I think it is a 2 phase although I'm not sure that is the correct term. It doesn't have a speed switch but does have a large, remote mount capacitor. My thought is that it uses the phase shift from the capacitor to provide torque for starting and running.
I received the manual from Tony Griffith's site (10 days after order) and the electrical diagram is a great help. It gives instructions for switching it from 550 V 3 ph, to 230 V 1 ph, and then to 230 V 1 ph. I am going to put my faith in them - at least til they are proven wrong. Looks promising as when you change from 550 V to 230 V all that you do is bypass the transformer. ie the rectifier is 230 V single phase rather than 550 V
With a little luck it could be "power up Friday"
I have attached some pics below.
Thanks for your comments,
Michael
Hello Michael
Compliments of the Season and thanks for posting Your progress with Your beloved Cromwell.
Your work is coming out nice, especially the Jewelling. We use quite a bit of this on our knives with CRATEX STICKS only on a Drill Press. However, Your method of utilising graded lapping compound with a wooden dowel on a milling machine is quite a novel approach to a similar task, which we would also like to experiment with.
Regrettably I picked Your progress a bit late, but then it's never too late, 'cos we have a myriad of questions U might be able to assist us with on whether we can or should attempt to tackle a similar project.
U see we had recently acquired a COLCHESTER CHIPMASTER which is in a pathetically butchered condition and we can't decide whether we should sell it or keep the machine and tackle a complete overhaul, like U and most of the knowledgeable, experienced Guys do here. Pics etc., are in that section of the Forum here.
At the outset, allow me to be candid and say that we have zero knowledge when it comes to the innards of these Lathes.
If we open say the Apron/Saddle, heaven help us if we will be able to put back all the Gears etc. !!!
This machine, being rather noisy, may have VARIATOR issues, a scrape on the BED requires removal, the MATRIX CLUTCH requires adjustment, excessive Back play on the Handwheels needs correction etc., etc. Being some 33 years old it would obviously need serious attention.
To begin with, without sounding impetuous or impertinent, what is Your level of expertise with these machines ??? Remember, unlike U, we are rookies at most.
Is this Your first re-furbishing attempt ???
If U were to advise one to tackle a similar project, where would U recommend they start ???
We understand taking pics and numbering will greatly assist in maintaining a proper sequence of technical part configuration.
However, how would one cope should one get totally stuck with putting parts back in the right order and sequence ???
Will the machine Manual adequately suffice for this ???
Surprisingly we note that U did use a paint brush for most of the painting, except for what we can see, the Motor ???
As moving our heavy ( +500 lbs ) Lathe would be a serious challenge, Your method of using a Brush would circumvent that impasse.
And your work is beautiful, to say the least !!!
We have had other well-intentioned well wishers with an exactly similar Make and Model on the Forum here highly recommend we keep the machine and sort the few problematic issues.
Regrettably, we could not make up our minds.
As an impartial observer, we would like to pose the same question to U.
Should we or should'nt we commence serious re-furbishing, knowing our level of total technical ignorance ???
Your esteemed advices would be immensely appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Regards
aRM
Compliments of the Season and thanks for posting Your progress with Your beloved Cromwell.
Your work is coming out nice, especially the Jewelling. We use quite a bit of this on our knives with CRATEX STICKS only on a Drill Press. However, Your method of utilising graded lapping compound with a wooden dowel on a milling machine is quite a novel approach to a similar task, which we would also like to experiment with.
Regrettably I picked Your progress a bit late, but then it's never too late, 'cos we have a myriad of questions U might be able to assist us with on whether we can or should attempt to tackle a similar project.
U see we had recently acquired a COLCHESTER CHIPMASTER which is in a pathetically butchered condition and we can't decide whether we should sell it or keep the machine and tackle a complete overhaul, like U and most of the knowledgeable, experienced Guys do here. Pics etc., are in that section of the Forum here.
At the outset, allow me to be candid and say that we have zero knowledge when it comes to the innards of these Lathes.
If we open say the Apron/Saddle, heaven help us if we will be able to put back all the Gears etc. !!!
This machine, being rather noisy, may have VARIATOR issues, a scrape on the BED requires removal, the MATRIX CLUTCH requires adjustment, excessive Back play on the Handwheels needs correction etc., etc. Being some 33 years old it would obviously need serious attention.
To begin with, without sounding impetuous or impertinent, what is Your level of expertise with these machines ??? Remember, unlike U, we are rookies at most.
Is this Your first re-furbishing attempt ???
If U were to advise one to tackle a similar project, where would U recommend they start ???
We understand taking pics and numbering will greatly assist in maintaining a proper sequence of technical part configuration.
However, how would one cope should one get totally stuck with putting parts back in the right order and sequence ???
Will the machine Manual adequately suffice for this ???
Surprisingly we note that U did use a paint brush for most of the painting, except for what we can see, the Motor ???
As moving our heavy ( +500 lbs ) Lathe would be a serious challenge, Your method of using a Brush would circumvent that impasse.
And your work is beautiful, to say the least !!!
We have had other well-intentioned well wishers with an exactly similar Make and Model on the Forum here highly recommend we keep the machine and sort the few problematic issues.
Regrettably, we could not make up our minds.
As an impartial observer, we would like to pose the same question to U.
Should we or should'nt we commence serious re-furbishing, knowing our level of total technical ignorance ???
Your esteemed advices would be immensely appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Regards
aRM
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 314
Hi aRM,
Thanks for the compliments on my Cromwell, but I'm not sure that my opinions are worth esteeming,
Re the jewelling I used a wood dowel and lapping compound because it was all I had. Craftex sticks aren't and item I can go to town and buy, and besides it was New Years day and everything was closed. I read up on it on some excellent sites (saw some stunning work) and determined that you can spin almost any round material that can bring abrasive against the work, in order to make a pattern.
Yes, I have restored other machines, but calling it restoration is a bit of a leap. Essentially the machines that I have "restored" were all basically sound machines with little wear but looked a little or a lot rough and needed paint and polish - maybe bearings or a part or two here and there. Sometimes more than 1 or 2 as my Cromwell needs several change gears, an indexing plate and an approx. 4" dial with 250 graduations on it.
As far as a complete lathe rebuild with grinding and scraping the ways and everything that goes with that. I have never done it - but I admire those skilled craftsmen and learners that have, and enjoy following their progress.
As far as your Chipmaster goes I remember your posts but can't recall a picture of it. As for as restoring it goes paint obviously doesn't make it work any better - but it sure looks nice. There are lots of people doing accurate work on machines with not much paint remaining. The reason I used a brush was that I wanted a specific colour +-, don't have a spray booth and it is way too cold outside. Otherwise I might have been able to match it up with automotive spray cans.
It depends what you want your Chipmaster to do for you. It is not unusual to bring home a new and unfamiliar machine and be a little or a lot overwhelmed - what have I gotten myself into? As a smart manager once taught me don't look at the whole problem - break it down into sections. I first used that thinking to do a wood carving project that I never thought that I could do. I thought to myself that I can do that area, and after that I think that I can learn to do the next area and so on - until the project was done.
Any big job is just a series of interconnecting smaller jobs. To clean it up and get it running you probably don't really have to Know all that much, but you have to be able to learn as you go. Digital cameras a a big help in record keeping. Don't take the whole machine apart and end up with a pile of whachyumacallits. Start with the tailstock, take it apart, clean it, and while it is apart you might as well paint it. Then do the compound rest - it has only a few parts so shouldn't be too difficult.
After that I would probably change the lube in the headstock and gearbox (lots of advise on this forum re the correct lube), oil every oil hole you can find, ensure that the gear selectors are fully engaged, make sure that it sounds smooth when you give it a spin using the belt and power it up a low speed.
Hope this helps,
Michael
Thanks for the compliments on my Cromwell, but I'm not sure that my opinions are worth esteeming,
Re the jewelling I used a wood dowel and lapping compound because it was all I had. Craftex sticks aren't and item I can go to town and buy, and besides it was New Years day and everything was closed. I read up on it on some excellent sites (saw some stunning work) and determined that you can spin almost any round material that can bring abrasive against the work, in order to make a pattern.
Yes, I have restored other machines, but calling it restoration is a bit of a leap. Essentially the machines that I have "restored" were all basically sound machines with little wear but looked a little or a lot rough and needed paint and polish - maybe bearings or a part or two here and there. Sometimes more than 1 or 2 as my Cromwell needs several change gears, an indexing plate and an approx. 4" dial with 250 graduations on it.
As far as a complete lathe rebuild with grinding and scraping the ways and everything that goes with that. I have never done it - but I admire those skilled craftsmen and learners that have, and enjoy following their progress.
As far as your Chipmaster goes I remember your posts but can't recall a picture of it. As for as restoring it goes paint obviously doesn't make it work any better - but it sure looks nice. There are lots of people doing accurate work on machines with not much paint remaining. The reason I used a brush was that I wanted a specific colour +-, don't have a spray booth and it is way too cold outside. Otherwise I might have been able to match it up with automotive spray cans.
It depends what you want your Chipmaster to do for you. It is not unusual to bring home a new and unfamiliar machine and be a little or a lot overwhelmed - what have I gotten myself into? As a smart manager once taught me don't look at the whole problem - break it down into sections. I first used that thinking to do a wood carving project that I never thought that I could do. I thought to myself that I can do that area, and after that I think that I can learn to do the next area and so on - until the project was done.
Any big job is just a series of interconnecting smaller jobs. To clean it up and get it running you probably don't really have to Know all that much, but you have to be able to learn as you go. Digital cameras a a big help in record keeping. Don't take the whole machine apart and end up with a pile of whachyumacallits. Start with the tailstock, take it apart, clean it, and while it is apart you might as well paint it. Then do the compound rest - it has only a few parts so shouldn't be too difficult.
After that I would probably change the lube in the headstock and gearbox (lots of advise on this forum re the correct lube), oil every oil hole you can find, ensure that the gear selectors are fully engaged, make sure that it sounds smooth when you give it a spin using the belt and power it up a low speed.
Hope this helps,
Michael
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 314
Today was power up Saturday. One small problem is that the contactor coil is 600 V and only hums fainltly at 220 V. No big surprise, I was trying to be optimistic as last summer when I rebuilt my Startrite bandsaw it was originally a 550 V machine but had a 110 V coil in the contactor. I'll look around tomorrow and see if I have a suitable coil, if not I'll replace the whole contactor with one I have left from an air compressor.
Hope for the best tomorrow.
Michael
Hope for the best tomorrow.
Michael