New To Me 1966 Clausing 5914

Here is with gray PA6-GF. Bleeding was notnany easier. Ha ing trouble getting locked in under 500-600 rpm though. Need a vit of preload to get it eight, im thinking. 1000002304.jpg
 
Still having some issues at lower rpm range. Lower than 500-600rpm the belt is floppy loose. And at the top end, the belt is not as high as it should in the compressed sheave. Not sure why with fully rebuilt cylinders and zero leakage. I'm thinking the belt may be stretched. I am going to take the easy route at first and try adding a couple washers to the stack at the end of the bearing and see how it goes. It should prevent the belt being floppy on the low end and the belt to ride higher and faster on the top end of the rpm.

 
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The spacers took up the flop and raised the lower held rpm to 450-500rpm. However at the top compressed end the sheave stopped closing at 1500-1600rpm. I took a measurement on the belt width and confirmed the width is not correct. .9920" when it should be 1.19". That will do it.
It doesn't look worn so im assuming the wrong belt was used to replace the original. I'm seeing 1930v400 as original spec and a few 1922v400 as a better angle for the sheave. Any ideas or experience between the two?? Crappy thing is both appear to have been replaced not long ago, but for
peace of mind and convenience, going to have to replace both. I will probably hold off on that for a bit until i get some of the other items checked off my list.

1930V400 - Lower V-Belt​

630H150 - Upper Timing Belt​

 
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So after some more digging i found an old thread regarding belts and operation. The belt is a 30* angle, but the sheaves measure 22* and may be the reason for what appears to be premature wear, as the current belt is a 1930v400.
I ordered a 1922v403 as described and confirmed in a old practical machinist thread. I also ordered a new 630H150 timing belt.
It doean't appear to be as cumbersome as i first thought and will be changing once i receive the new parts. I would have edited the previous post, but the edit function is not available.
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Thanks for describing your process, I’m enjoying reading and have a 5913.
 
Thanks for describing your process, I’m enjoying reading and have a 5913.
Thanks. I think it would be helpful to see my mistakes or missteps l, as well as, any fixes and corrections. I should have measured and verified the belt first.
 
Here is the clutch drive assembly bearing caps removed. Again 6205-2z bearings. The front is noisy and loose as heck. I ordered some Nachi c3 this time and they should be here Monday-Wed. Unfortunately, i will need to pull the bearings, as the front is not sliding off and will need to pull the assembly to get the rear anyway. Pretty simple. There are two slot clips sandwiching the rear bearing. Both caps have two alignment spring pins in them and needed a screwdriver to lift off the bearings. Squeezing the spindle drive belt lifted the front right up and a slender pry tool lifts the rear.
I received the belts. I did go a cost effective path and purchased D+D belts. they look pretty good and have bought 5M, xl, and other v-belts from them previously. They seem to work well. Comparing the old to the new was definitely a revelation in how worn the motor drive belt was. I bought a small lot of 1922v400 belts at a good price and will have some for sale if anyone is interested.
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And the upper gear train cover removed. All the gears look in great shape. No chips or excessive wear.
However, the timing belt has visible cracking and looks old from here.

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The spacers took up the flop and raised the lower held rpm to 450-500rpm. However at the top compressed end the sheave stopped closing at 1500-1600rpm. I took a measurement on the belt width and confirmed the width is not correct. .9920" when it should be 1.19". That will do it.
It doesn't look worn so im assuming the wrong belt was used to replace the original. I'm seeing 1930v400 as original spec and a few 1922v400 as a better angle for the sheave. Any ideas or experience between the two?? Crappy thing is both appear to have been replaced not long ago, but for
peace of mind and convenience, going to have to replace both. I will probably hold off on that for a bit until i get some of the other items checked off my list.

1930V400 - Lower V-Belt​

630H150 - Upper Timing Belt​

A while back there was a Clausing dealer who kept giving the wrong part number for the variable belt for some reason. They were giving the belt number for a Clausing drill press and it was too narrow. The drill press belt is probably what was put on your lathe. I think they were quoting the belt number from memory and just got it confused, but the issue has cropped up several times.

Any chance you'd share the .stl file for the slave cylinder cover? I need one and have a 3D printer at work (so I can't make them to sell!).
 
A while back there was a Clausing dealer who kept giving the wrong part number for the variable belt for some reason. They were giving the belt number for a Clausing drill press and it was too narrow. The drill press belt is probably what was put on your lathe. I think they were quoting the belt number from memory and just got it confused, but the issue has cropped up several times.

Any chance you'd share the .stl file for the slave cylinder cover? I need one and have a 3D printer at work (so I can't make them to sell!).
Unfortunately 1930v400 is stamped on the belt. As far as I've read, Clausing has been giving out that belt and part number for years.
After I removed the upper cover and had some good light, it became very apparent, the belts were in bad shape.
I design and 3D print on the side so....
I received the new D and D belts 1922v403 and 630H150. Waiting on three 6205-2zc3 bearing from Nachi. I also ordered two more nos koyo bearings, I got a deal on. I want to say or would to think I'm not going to tear down the entire clutch/ brake shaft assembly, but i think i'd kidding and lying to myself at this point. Lol. I'm already thinking ahead to the gear selector shaft and bushing that needs replaced there and the carraige components. But for what I paid, and the cost to replace, it seems worth it for the nominal few hundred dollars. I would hate to see what i would pay someone else to do it. I'll certainly appreciate it more and the experience of doing it will pay it forward with future projects.
 
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