Sb 10 X 24 Hd Tool Room Lathe Q's

Been busy as hec at work only spent a little time in garage however turned out a few small lathe projects that I needed to get other machines up and running .. all I hav to say is this lathe is top shelf all I attempt to do the lathe does what its supposed to do .. Btw after I dialed her in can not find anything to fix .. Adjusted the brass bearing shims on spindle no need to buy a new spindle .Did a full head bearing adjustment less than .0002 TIR now .

, the lathe is smooth very ez to work on ... Its been a dream to finially have a functional lathe in my home .One happy camper thanks so much guys :)DSCF1181.JPG DSCF1182.JPG DSCF1186.JPG DSCF1187.JPG
 
kennyv said:
To date I have never dialed in south bends spindle bearings. Not sure what is proper protocol. Right now I still have one .002 on each mounting bolt . On the procedure for adjusting it say you can remove one shim from one side . But id like to hear from one of you SB owners before going any further .

If anyone knows what proper protocol is please explain in better detail thanks allot

Kenny V.
Click to expand...

South Bend H-4 Bulletin, starting page 15 in the stickies above:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/some-useful-sb-bulletins.28640/

John
 
thanks guys... very happy with the lathe so far the only thing I needed to replace is the cross fed nut. all else was adjustments now in perfect working order
had a few Q's for ya south bend owners .
I have a type L head stock the only accessories that didn't come with lathe was spindle sleeve dead headstock center. . right now I am looking to purchase one . From what I see in the assembly drawings its optional to use either the MT2 or MT3 on this model depending on the bushing you get .

does anyone know what size the large taper is on the spindle itself is ? is it MT4??


Q#2
***** also any tip******* on how you guys go about taking off the nose cone / chuck/ face plates when they are stubborn?
I been putting a rubber wedge and putting in back gear but don't like to do that if I can avoid it . Is there a spot to wedge a block of wood that is better off and avoid damaging back gear teeth ?
 
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Engagement Clutch? is that he third from the right on the saddle? hold straight out and turn clockwise one rev, check for adjustment, repeat until good. nobrainer.
 
If I recall correctly lift test should be between .0007--.001 ,end play the same. Should be in stickies ,If u pull spindle prob should get new capillary felt oilers , eBay has them
Nice Heavy 10 L by the way
 
thanks everything is working fine/ dialed in. This was my original post all original q's answered
Todays post I had asked

Q#1
does anyone know what size is the large taper in the spindle is to purchasing a spindle sleeve for a dead center
'
Q#2
***** also any tip on ******* how you guys go about taking off stubborn nose cone / chuck/ face plates without putting in back gear ? Thanks :)
 
Large spindle taper is a 4.5 MT is I'm correct, proprietary to South Bend. Look on eBay.

I remove my chucks, faceplates, and spindle nose fitting by engaging the back gear, it shouldn't hurt anything unless you really jam something on there. You can unscrew your spindle nose pullet/thread protector using a pin spanner or 3.5" oil filter ratchet wrench. Get one of the self tightening steel band ones

On your machine it looks like someone tried to pry up one of the bearing caps without removing the expamder screws, especially on the rear bearing. make sure your expanders aren't pulling through the sleeve when tightening them.

If you pull the spindle, flush the oil pots/reserviors and either clean the existing wicks or get new ones. Make sure the springs aren't broken and the wicks are not only wicking oil but is contacting the spindle itself. Since the expanders stick with the spindle on removal, you have to line the hole in the bottom of the sleeves with the wick when putting the spindle back. There is a trick to doing that but I forget it at the moment.

If the carriage ways above the QCGB (where the carriage can't reach) have scrape marks, you have a soft bed. If they are ground, you have a hardened bed.
 
I noticed a rope looking seal in front of the large bearing , is that original or a add on , mine dosn't have that. But a good idea. Do others have that ?.
Thanks
'
 
dlane said:
I noticed a rope looking seal in front of the large bearing , is that original or a add on , mine dosn't have that. But a good idea. Do others have that ?.
Thanks
'
Click to expand...
That is not original.
 
kennyv said:
thanks guys... very happy with the lathe so far the only thing I needed to replace is the cross fed nut. all else was adjustments now in perfect working order
had a few Q's for ya south bend owners .
I have a type L head stock the only accessories that didn't come with lathe was spindle sleeve dead headstock center. . right now I am looking to purchase one . From what I see in the assembly drawings its optional to use either the MT2 or MT3 on this model depending on the bushing you get .

does anyone know what size the large taper is on the spindle itself is ? is it MT4??


Q#2
***** also any tip******* on how you guys go about taking off the nose cone / chuck/ face plates when they are stubborn?
I been putting a rubber wedge and putting in back gear but don't like to do that if I can avoid it . Is there a spot to wedge a block of wood that is better off and avoid damaging back gear teeth ?
Click to expand...

Make sure your spindle and chuck threads are clean before installing. You can put the lathe in back gear and use a shaft in the chuck jaws to break it loose. I don't make many changes, but I keep my threads clean and put a little WD-40 and wipe them down before and after install. I find it takes a minimal force to remove the chuck.

As for the collet holder, use a dowel/broom handle/drawbar and lightly tap it through the spindle bore to break the taper.

I also noticed in your photos you checked spindle runout using the thread protector? You may want to test using the spindle bore, as this is what matters when it comes to runout. Any exterior surface does not affect the alignment of work.

Did you perform a lift test as per the South Bend manual?
 
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