Pulley wiggle-key tolerance AND - shaft end Loctite

maple syrup said:
I also have a separate New question. I edited the thread to include it starting at this post.

my old Bandsaw wheel pulley is worn.

The reason for addressing this issue is I want to avoid vibration and ticking as much as possible. I am not certain if extra steps are needed to repair the pulley. The pulley is unobtainable from online supply.

The amount of wear is small.
  1. This is a 5 mm nominal keyway. The key was measured to be 0.1964" in both directions and front to back. So I concluded that the key is not damaged. as the pulley is made of aluminum.
  2. it does not wiggle on the shaft, but does wiggle in the pulley.
  3. when everything is installed on the shaft, I feel ticking when going back and forth.
  4. there is no setscrew.
  5. Ithe pulley keyway cannot be measured accurately as it is too small for my new telescoping gauge set. visually I can see that it is very small.

My potential solution is
  1. Loctite 608 on the sides of the keyway only. I spoke to the Henkel rep. He said that Loctite 608 can be used in this application but could not comment on the efficacy.
  2. do nothing
  3. buy new pulley locally made for over $100
the question is should I apply the Loctite 608 to the sides of the pulley keyway since there is wiggle in pulley and no setscrew
thanks

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That might work, but I would mill and hand fit a stepped key and call it done.
 
maple syrup said:
Unfortunately, I don't have a mill yet. This does sound like a good idea
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Ah, that complicates things.

The Loctite will most likely work, but I'm torn between it potentially causing more harm than good. There's really no issue with that bit of play in the keyway on a saw, and using Loctite could make future repairs more difficult.
 
If you were to tighten up the end play in the shaft by shimming under the bolt / washer and load the key against the pulley it should stop the rotational jockeying back and forth. Either the shaft is too long, (most likely), or too short. Should be a shoulder that the pulley butts up against.
Could you add a set screw?
 
RaisedByWolves said:
Ah, that complicates things.

The Loctite will most likely work, but I'm torn between it potentially causing more harm than good. There's really no issue with that bit of play in the keyway on a saw, and using Loctite could make future repairs more difficult.
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I know. This is why I'mWas only planning on gluing to the key and not the shaft. The key is at least disposable and I figured if there's a problem again, it would be probably high time to get a custom pulley.

Of course this would cause removal to be more difficult
OTmachine said:
If you were to tighten up the end play in the shaft by shimming under the bolt / washer and load the key against the pulley it should stop the rotational jockeying back and forth. Either the shaft is too long, (most likely), or too short. Should be a shoulder that the pulley butts up against.
Could you add a set screw?
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Unfortunately there is no room to add a setscrew. It would've been nice

This is interesting. I have noticed that tightening the end set screw tends to snug everything up, But at a higher torque than I would think is healthy for the shaft as theThe lock washer is fully compressed. Part of me thought that maybe it was over tightened.The washer might be slightly worn ( compressed to flat before snugness is reached) but I couldn't tell for sure. I'm wondering if I should replace the lock washer,. Thinking it might be better for the shaft (Fine tuning of torque)? not sure about that

what do you think
 
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Sounds like there is no shoulder for the pulley. Most loctite melts at about 300 deg F.. Check the spec’s. Hot air gun will get you to that temp. I used to work for a company that used Loctite (green) to glue .22 cal barrel liners into receiver lugs, then injection mold plastic over the assembly. When people would mess up and not put the liners fully inserted, they would put them in an oven at 350 deg. F and they would come apart easily. You can use an infra-red temp gun to check temp on a sample to see if it melts. Or just put it in the oven when the wife is not around.

BTW, IMHO lock washers now a days are a waste as they tend to expand radially and not help at all.
 
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OTmachine said:
Sounds like there is no shoulder for the pulley. Most loctite melts at about 300 deg F.. Check the spec’s. Hot air gun will get you to that temp. I used to work for a company that used Loctite (green) to glue .22 cal barrel liners into receiver lugs, then injection mold plastic over the assembly. When people would mess up and not put the liners fully inserted, they would put them in an oven at 350 deg. F and they would come apart easily. You can use an infra-red temp gun to check temp on a sample to see if it melts. Or just put it in the oven when the wife is not around.

BTW, IMHO lock washers now a days are a waste as they tend to expand radially and not help at all.
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Are you saying I should or shouldn't use the Loctite? the reason for the question is it has been mentioned that it should be snug (Shoulder). And it gets snug but only when I tighten screw all the way, meaning do I even have an issue?

I would consider shimming it, I guess I need a feeler gauge for that though
 
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maple syrup said:
Are you saying I should or shouldn't use the Loctite? the reason for the question is it has been mentioned that it should be snug (Shoulder). And it gets snug but only when I tighten screw all the way, meaning do I even have an issue?

I would consider shimming it, I guess I need a feeler gauge for that though
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I think you're overthinking this.

You could leave it, shim it or loctite it all with the same end result, you will forget all about it in a week and it will be fine regardless of what you do.
 
You haven't posted a picture of the shaft that the pulley sits on. I would expect that shaft would have a shoulder that the pulley rests against, and a slightly smaller diameter section where the pulley sits that is slotted for the key. From your description I think you are saying that there is a bolt going into the end of the shaft, and a washer on that bolt is holding the pulley onto the shaft?

If that is the case, I would suggest either shimming between the pulley and shaft with a thin washer. Another approach, if my understanding is correct, would be to simply file the end of the shaft to remove 10-20 thou so that the end bolt and washer put pressure on the pulley. Possibly add loctite ...
 
Could you please post a picture of the Illustrated Parts Break-down, or the shaft, or a link to a user manual so that we can see what you are working on? If not, you are on your own.
 
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