Tramming PM 833tv

frank13

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I am a total newbie to this. Just got my mill and have been setting it up. So far it seems great. I have been trying to get it trammed using a tram tool from Stupid Simple tools. I have been trying to shim the column but seems like I am chasing my tail. The best I have managed to do so far is 10 ten thousandths. Any suggestions or idea on where I am going wrong.

Thanks
 
I am a total newbie to this. Just got my mill and have been setting it up. So far it seems great. I have been trying to get it trammed using a tram tool from Stupid Simple tools. I have been trying to shim the column but seems like I am chasing my tail. The best I have managed to do so far is 10 ten thousandths. Any suggestions or idea on where I am going wrong.

Thanks
Watch this video:
 
I am a total newbie to this. Just got my mill and have been setting it up. So far it seems great. I have been trying to get it trammed using a tram tool from Stupid Simple tools. I have been trying to shim the column but seems like I am chasing my tail. The best I have managed to do so far is 10 ten thousandths. Any suggestions or idea on where I am going wrong.

Thanks
Good luck the 833 is a sub par mill junk at it's best. I regret buying it and will never buy from PM again. Go look for a old mill that was not made overseas.
 
Good luck the 833 is a sub par mill junk at it's best. I regret buying it and will never buy from PM again. Go look for a old mill that was not made overseas.
what issues are you having?
 
I am a total newbie to this. Just got my mill and have been setting it up. So far it seems great. I have been trying to get it trammed using a tram tool from Stupid Simple tools. I have been trying to shim the column but seems like I am chasing my tail. The best I have managed to do so far is 10 ten thousandths. Any suggestions or idea on where I am going wrong.

Thanks
so you are off by .001? (10 ten thousands)?
over what distance? if it is .001" over 1" that is a different animal than .001" over 20"
 
what issues are you having?
Ok so over 6in I can be out .0015 the head down spindle upbut when I move the X 6in out I have up to .006 out and if I go 6in past center I got. 004 out. If I do the Same thing but move y to the next rib I'm .002 out and .004 out if I go to the last rib.

Now if I bring the head up and the spindle down my numbers are all off but not the option so I can't find a happy middle.

But hey I can shim my work and still get what I need done it just takes 5x longer to setup and a lot of math. So why am I so upset with this mill. If I plunge a hole using a new mill that can cut you just looking at it the head moves around as much as. 010 out same as it does when I bore a hole out with the boring head.
I can still get what I need to do but the setup time and how slow it takes to remove. 020 off the OD of a motorcycle hub makes me cry..

The spindle runout on this mill is only .0003 and it looks and feels rock solid until you put it to use..
The sad part is I was just going to get the PM940V but I believed that the VT was made better as PM listed it as.
I have a PM1030 lathe and I get way better accuracy from that and that came with a. 003 of runout from the 3 chuck..

If I had to do it all over again I would have looked around for a used lathe and mill
 
Considering your experience level and that you have a brand new machine, if I were you, I wouldn't be thinking about shimming the column at this point. I definitely wouldn't think about using epoxy as Sefan Gotteswinter did as there is no going back if it isn't done correctly. Get to know the machine first. When you have correctly identified a problem, then you can think about the best solution.

There are a lot of interactions that can affect the tram of a machine. A properly set up mill/drill has a flat table, an x axis travel that is parallel to the table surface, a y axis travel that is parallel to the table surface, a column travel that is perpendicular to the table surface in both x and y directions, and a quill travel that is parallel to the column travel. In addition, all gibs should be properly adjusted. This is of particular importance for the column gib as a loose gib there can cause the the head to sag. Loose x and y gibs can cause table lift as when the table is moved to extreme positions.

A simple tramming procedure can be done to correct an out of tram condition. Adjust tram in the x direction by rotating the head. Adjust in the y direction by shimming between the head and the mount to the column. Be sure to lock the head prior to tramming to prevent any sag caused by a loose column gib.

A non-perpendicular column to table will have the effect of moving your reference datum in the x and/or y direction as the head is raised or lowered. If the head position is not changed, you will not notice any effect. For that reason, I would not rush to correct any issues.
 
As a point of reference, I owned an 833T for a few years. I, too, was not utterly impressed with it. I should point out that the gib on my Z-axis was atrocious. PM claims that these "fit" each machine, and when I inquired about getting a new gib, I was told it would take weeks to get one. Mine was not of the correct size (too thin) and thus could not be adequately snugged unless I used a shim behind it. As I said, I was not impressed. I had planned on making a new gib myself but ended up selling the 833 to an unsuspecting dude who oozed machismo. Perfect.
 
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