New G0602 Setup

[RJSakowski]

i'm redesigning my compound and looked at his but am concerned that instead of pulling the base of the compound slide down onto a solid surface it clamps the round column that the compound base is attached to, i just think that is more places to flex where when the base of the compound slide is pulled down you have a larger footprint so longer moments to increase rigidity.

Any thoughts on this?

That is why I added three more screws between the round column and the compound. See link in pose #28 above.

 

[dabear3428]

That is why I added three more screws between the round column and the compound. See link in pose #28 above.

yea i get that i just think that the design is flawed from the start because if the design is such that it pulls the machined flat on the bottom of the compound down onto a matching machined flat the contact area is much larger than the round column that this design has the compound mounting to. more rigid than the original but less than the system that pulls the compound down to lock in place, by my back of the envelope at least 2X more rigid.
i think the round column itself is a source of rigidity issues.
your design no doubt makes the factory mount more rigid but i'm not starting with a G0602, and i was trying to rework my compound using ideas off of the g0602 mod and came to the conclusion that i would be better off with what i'll call the "pull down method" (mainly because i'm starting with a smaller foot print to begin with and would have even less rigidity with a smaller diameter column.

 

[WobblyHand]

Also posted in Downloads area. To access that area will require an upgraded membership, which in my humble opinion is well worthwhile!
I made a FreeCAD model of @RJSakowski 's design, with his permission. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/g0602-compound-clamp.3400/ Like RJ mentioned, adding a couple more screws does help a bit. Might put in a rounded cut out to make the dial scale more visible.

This was fun and useful to make.

 

[dabear3428]

Also posted in Downloads area. To access that area will require an upgraded membership, which in my humble opinion is well worthwhile!
I made a FreeCAD model of @RJSakowski 's design, with his permission. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/g0602-compound-clamp.3400/ Like RJ mentioned, adding a couple more screws does help a bit. Might put in a rounded cut out to make the dial scale more visible.
View attachment 488378View attachment 488379View attachment 488380View attachment 488381
This was fun and useful to make.

i would have upgraded my membership a wile back but i do not do paypal and that was all i could find that the site accepted.
in the case of the G0602 there is a lot more real-estate for larger more rigid mounts in my case i will be limited to 2 m6/8 bolts to attach the compound to the riser block, so i'm thinking i should go for longer moments in the mount to maximize the rigidity.

on second thought i could modify the system to add more bolts attaching the compound to the column since i will no longer be using the 2 factory screws to adjust the angle and can drill down the center ending up inline with the compound lead screw (but under it)

 

[WobblyHand]

i would have upgraded my membership a wile back but i do not do paypal and that was all i could find that the site accepted.
in the case of the G0602 there is a lot more real-estate for larger more rigid mounts in my case i will be limited to 2 m6/8 bolts to attach the compound to the riser block, so i'm thinking i should go for longer moments in the mount to maximize the rigidity.

on second thought i could modify the system to add more bolts attaching the compound to the column since i will no longer be using the 2 factory screws to adjust the angle and can drill down the center ending up inline with the compound lead screw (but under it)

I really don't use PayPal either. Mine is not tied to my bank account (which I think is nuts) but to my CC. The CC companies dwarf PayPal so they provide me protection for stuff gone bad. I rarely use PayPal, to be honest. But I did use it twice here at Hobby Machinist. First for a gold membership here, then a year later to make a single lifetime payment. Seemed worth it to me anyways.

Having 6 nuts to tighten isn't that much fun, but it beats having the compound moving. It has been a very worthwhile modification for my lathe.

 

[David2011]

When I made my Clough42 clamp I didn’t have a boring head to make the window to see the numbers on the compound. In an effort to remove as little metal as possible I used a 1” chamfer bit to cut a tapered opening. Nit sure how much stiffer it made the clamp but I thought it was worth the try.

As much metal as there is on the Grizzly it seems like it would have been possible to bolt the compound directly to the cross slide. I was putting my 13x40 back together this evening after painting it an admired the strength and simplicity of holding it to the cross slide with two screws and tee nuts.

 

[dabear3428]

I really don't use PayPal either. Mine is not tied to my bank account (which I think is nuts) but to my CC. The CC companies dwarf PayPal so they provide me protection for stuff gone bad. I rarely use PayPal, to be honest. But I did use it twice here at Hobby Machinist. First for a gold membership here, then a year later to make a single lifetime payment. Seemed worth it to me anyways.

Having 6 nuts to tighten isn't that much fun, but it beats having the compound moving. It has been a very worthwhile modification for my lathe.

Yea you hit it on the head with PayPal, I used to use them a lot and then they tried to strong arm me into linking my bank account to my PayPal account. That was a hard pass for me and I do not respond well to that kind of stuff so I have been PayPal sober for 8 years. I would love to contribute to the form but not by linking my bank account.

I'm thinking that I may be able to squeeze a compound with that config onto my cross slide.

 

[dabear3428]

When I made my Clough42 clamp I didn’t have a boring head to make the window to see the numbers on the compound. In an effort to remove as little metal as possible I used a 1” chamfer bit to cut a tapered opening. Nit sure how much stiffer it made the clamp but I thought it was worth the try.

I watched Clough42s vid and it makes a huge improvement on the g0602, but like I said more room on that lathe.
I bought a chunk of 3in round 12L14 stock to make the column, I have just been rolling it over in my head.
I bought a new cast iron compound to modify for a replacement for the extruded alloy compound that my lathe shipped with. Just asking questions and trying to convince myself which direction to go in.

 

[WobblyHand]

Yea you hit it on the head with PayPal, I used to use them a lot and then they tried to strong arm me into linking my bank account to my PayPal account. That was a hard pass for me and I do not respond well to that kind of stuff so I have been PayPal sober for 8 years. I would love to contribute to the form but not by linking my bank account.

I'm thinking that I may be able to squeeze a compound with that config onto my cross slide.

I just ignore the requests for bank account linkage.

In my opinion, this forum is worth supporting. I've received a whole lot of knowledge and help from here. So I try to help others here with what I've learned and experienced, to pass it along.

 

[RJSakowski]

Ah- I see that now; overlooked it as I wasn't expecting to see the clamp upgrade. I would definitely take a look at the gibs, especially if the cross slide and compound move easily and as smooth as glass.

I don't know if this is true for the Belfonti version but on my clamp, I purposely left the clamp about .010" shorter so it would engage the round column properly. When the clamp bolts are loose, the gib is tighter and there is more drag on the cross slide. As I tighten the clamp bolts, the gib loosens slightly as the more massive clamp plate will cause a deflection of the cross slide so I adjust my cross slide gib with the clamp bolts tightened. The compound has no lock so I tend to keep the gib on the tight side to avoid any vibration from inadvertently rotating the lead screw. Since I seldom use the compound slide, the additional wear is not of concern to me.

When I made my Clough42 clamp I didn’t have a boring head to make the window to see the numbers on the compound. In an effort to remove as little metal as possible I used a 1” chamfer bit to cut a tapered opening. Nit sure how much stiffer it made the clamp but I thought it was worth the try.

As much metal as there is on the Grizzly it seems like it would have been possible to bolt the compound directly to the cross slide. I was putting my 13x40 back together this evening after painting it an admired the strength and simplicity of holding it to the cross slide with two screws and tee nuts.

The 602 cross slide isn't as robust as it might appear. The web between the dovetails is only 10 mm thick. Unfortunately, the 602 has a problem with the distance between the top of the compound and the spindle axis already and adding additional material to the web would have exacerbated the problem. With the six bolt clamp, the weak link is the fasteners between the round column and the compound base. Adding the three fasteners helps. If I recall correctly, the fasteners are M6 socket head cap screws and going up to an M8 would increase rigidity.

In order to bolt the compound directly as you propose, the width of the cross slide would have to be increased to be able to accommodate the slots for rotation of the compound and the thickness would need to be increased to compensate for the weakness due to the slots. The lathe would become a totally different animal.