Need help with tooling for new lathe

Get an 8" caliper if you can afford it- the extra two inches really comes in handy sometimes
 
Flyinfool said:
While it is fun buying tools, When I got my lathe I was in the same boat as you are. Your best bet is to just buy tooling as you find a need for it. I have a 13x40 and have never yet needed bits more that 3/8 square, I do mostly small parts, and or light cuts. I do have a bunch of bigger tools that are still new in the box after 15 years. (No I am not getting rid of them or I will need one tomorrow) I ended up with the big tooling from a package deal at a shop closing down.
The basics are a 0-1 micrometer, a 1-2 micrometer, and a 6 inch caliper, get more as you find a need for it. By getting things as required you are more likely to spend a bit more for higher quality and get the things that you really need. Yes in the begining the big brown truck driver will get to know you well.

As mentioned, grinding bits is part of using a lathe, it is not a separate hobby but an intertwined part of using a lathe, just like knowing how to use the measuring tools is a part of it. Sharpening a tool bit is literally just a couple of minutes once you learn how it should look.
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That makes sense. Right now I am just shopping for facing, turning, parting, and threading tools as those are the first ones that I know for sure I will eventually need, I was just not sure what sizes and thought bigger would be stiffer and better but everything that has a plus has a minus.... Thats good to know that you have not needed larger tooling. I don't think I will be taking any deep or tough cuts, I will take it very easy on the material. I have a 0-1 and 1-2 micrometer and a 8" caliper. I had the caliper and I had a 0-1 micrometer from reloading that I do but I just got a couple of used but recently calibrated mics at a good price. I'm working on getting all the parts to hook up the VFD in a enclosure so I can get power going. That will likely be another couple weeks. I think once that is done I will feel a bit better, I am not an electrician nor do I want to be but there are some great folks helping me along with that as well.

Thanks for all your help.
 
fishingreg said:
Thanks mikey and mmcmdl,

The lathe is a PM1340GT. I have a BXA tool post. My current tool holders (I only have 5 to start) will hold up to 5/8". The boring holder is 3/4". I will need to get more tool holders but at this point, I have not made my first chips so I'm just looking for a starting point. I can only imagine how big the world will seem once I start cutting.. I just don't want to buy tools that I find out I will never use because of something that I had no idea about at this stage. For now I will just be playing for the most part and maybe making some knobs and screws and such just for practice so I can learn.

Ultimately I will be turning, facing, parting, making slight tapers, and making tenons and threading. I intend for a chuck of the work to be done on stainless barrels for my own use. Most threads will be OD threads but I will also make thread protectors which of course will be ID threads. I appreciate the brazed carbide tooling suggestion, I had not looked into those and did not know you could stone them back to a nice cutting surface. I will check into that as well.

Am I to assume the carbide is better for internal threading because its much stiffer and can be a narrower tool to fit into tight places but not have the flex that narrow HSS would?

Thanks again
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Greg, PM sells sets of 5/8" inserted carbide tools that would go well with your 1340. Of course, you can also go with 1/2" tools from the same source if you choose; either will work, although the 5/8" will be a little stiffer. Both take the same size inserts. These tools use the CCMT or CCGT inserts that are the single most commonly used kind of inserts in the hobby. They are common on eBay and are cheap to buy. The advantage of these tools over brazed carbide is that you don't need to sharpen the inserts; just swap tips or inserts. These kinds of tools are a good way to get started.

For external threading, I suggest you look at Carmex tools and I would consider using the laydown type of tool. Download their catalog and sort out what you need for the material you anticipate working with. Know that a smaller tool, perhaps 3/8", will allow you better access to shoulders.

For internal threads, much depends on how deep you need to thread. Keep in mind that boring bars and internal threading tools all have the same restrictions, meaning a steel shanked tool of either type can usually go to a depth of about 4 times the diameter of the tool. Also remember that the bar must fit the hole. For example, if you have to bore or thread a 1/2" hole then you need a 3/8" or even a 5/16" bar to get inside that hole, and if the hole is more than 4 times the diameter in depth then you need a carbide shanked bar. I would hold off on buying these tools until you define your needs.
 
I would second what hman said above. I have several of the Mesa threading and boring tools and have had good luck with them. Their prices aren't too bad and they have a pretty good selection to get you started. They also have a good selection of different shapes of carbide inserts for various different tasks which in some cases allows you to use the same tool with different inserts for things like threading and grooving. When I first got my lathe I bought several of the Chinese brazed carbide lathe tools to start with (plus I had quite a bit of HSS) and that turned out to be a big mistake. I'm sure there are differences in quality from different manufacturers, but the ones I bought were junk.

Ted
 
talvare said:
When I first got my lathe I bought several of the Chinese brazed carbide lathe tools to start with (plus I had quite a bit of HSS) and that turned out to be a big mistake. I'm sure there are differences in quality from different manufacturers, but the ones I bought were junk. Ted
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Ted, the problem that I have often seen with Chinese carbide is that there is not enough relief or clearance ground to stop the tool from rubbing below the cutting edge(s). Once properly ground, they work just fine, no complaints. But most of my usage has been on internal tools, so YMMV.
 
Bob Korves said:
Ted, the problem that I have often seen with Chinese carbide is that there is not enough relief or clearance ground to stop the tool from rubbing below the cutting edge(s). Once properly ground, they work just fine, no complaints. But most of my usage has been on internal tools, so YMMV.
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Ya Bob, you are absolutely correct about the relief. The tools I bought are virtually unusable without grinding some relief. Most of the issues I had with the ones I bought were fracturing of the carbide. Admittedly, some of that problem may have been from my grinding technique, but even after doing some research about proper grinding techniques, I still had pretty poor performance. Like you said, YMMV.

Ted
 
If you grind carbide tools to a really sharp cutting edge and/or with a more acute included angle, they will cut really well, but they are also a lot more susceptible to crumbling at the sharp edges, more so if the work material is harder and tougher. Save the razor sharp edges on carbide (especially cheap carbide) for softer, free machining materials, and inspect it often and replace/regrind it as needed.
 
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