We have talked about this grinding wheel balancing subject many times. I've tried to buy quality but I just can't seem to find it.
I have the Oneway balance system that works well for bench grinders but for the surface grinder I remove material to find balance.
Just because the wheel is balanced, in my limited experience, doesn't mean there is no lateral run out.
I can watch the side to side movement. I'm using quality Sopko products carefully mounted.
I do have one wheel that runs great.
Watching Don Bailey's video again where he drills into the wheel just outside the adapter mounting surface gives me confidence this is an acceptable method, which I have done.
I use a getto balancing system but it allows me to identify the heavy side. I use bearings, a hub and drill rod on 2x4x6 blocks.
I have read in this forum the surface grinder wheels are made to a much higher tolerance and do not need balancing. That has not been my experience.
Frustrating.
As for lateral runout you can also dress the sides of the wheel. It's done all the time to relieve the wheel when grinding to an edge or form grinding. One of the pictures of my machine in post #12 shows a Carborundum wheel side dressed about 1/4" up. I used it to clean up a channel milled in a part.
I'm looking for Sanford MG-612 surface grinder owners who are willing to share tips and information on tooling, sources for parts, grinding wheel adapters, etc., and other useful information. Please note I am looking for information for the MG model specifically. Very recently, I purchased a...
www.hobby-machinist.com
You mentioned controversy in wheel selection. I believe there's just as much if not more controversy over the need to balance, and the methods of balancing small (7" diameter) surface grinding wheels. Personally I find I rarely need to balance a wheel. To this point when I've found one out of balance I've been able to correct it almost all the time by rotating it on the hub. I don't have any of the fancy hubs with sliding weights, so I have to either rotate the wheel, or attempt to dress it until an acceptable balance is achieved.
After posting yesterday I went to the shop and checked the balance on several of the hubs (adaptors). all except 1 was within the 2 gram limit of my balancing system. The lone one that wasn't within limits was actually 3 grams out of balance.
Of the 30 some wheels I have only a couple that wouldn't come into balance by rotating them. They came with the grinder and they're so old the labels are worn to the point I can't identify the manufacturer. They're actually worn to the stage they probably should be thrown in the trash, but I know the minute I do I'll find a use for them.
To add to the controversy I was taught that balancing a wheel by drilling into it was a no no. It was prohibited where I worked, and if you were found doing it the penalty could be as severe as being fired. I think it was a CYA policy in that the company wasn't willing to take a chance that someone could be injured or worse trying to save a $50.00 grinding wheel. Any wheels that were unable to be balanced or damaged were to be destroyed immediately.
Most of my grinding wheels have been purchased on eBay from an outfit called "tcitytrans" out of Farmington Missouri . They currently have listings for 34 wheels of various brands, sizes, and grits. Most are no name, and only a couple are Carborundum. There aren't currently any Norton's or Radiac's. As mentioned earlier from previous experiences I only buy Norton, Carborundum, and Radiac.
