Messin' about with machines..

[brino]

....perhaps if you dis-assemble the next biggest one?

-brino

 

[graham-xrf]

....perhaps if you dis-assemble the next biggest one?
-brino

Yup - the thought did cross my mind, and I might have got to that, only stopped by a temporary situation..




The zip tie bag, recycled into new duties, was, in it's previous life, host to one of those UNC + metric multi-stampings threads gauges from eBay. Anticipating another fumble would leave the undersized packet unable to cope with 32-54mm with 5+3/8" stem (we are equal opportunity units here), gave me time to see the flaw in the plan.

An optimist with courage, no less! It's a good way to be - or maybe you didn't see the flaw yet!

Me, on the other hand, does not have the instinct to just get another pack from eBay. Not when I've invested the remains of my abrasive paper and attentions to improving the little rod. Also, as they say - stop digging!
There is probably more than a tenner's worth of grief involved in getting that fiddly stuff back together. Even so, I limit my forays into eBay to the minimum.

The eBay song -->

 

[Old Mud]

OK - the primer - with careful help from a heat gun to "speed up" the process.
That colour looks OK. Maybe there is a gloss called "Primer Grey", or maybe we put on a coat of Rustoleum Clear over the grey?

View attachment 309485

I really should not have sacrificed the pen top quite so soon :-(
Press-on some more. We have yet to try out the rattle can of "Rover Kingfisher Blue" from Halfords, still laying around along with the can of "Citroën Mediterranean Blue" from earlier messin' about.

Sacreligious , Graham if you were a boater you would have known Zinc Chromate or Zink Phospate is the best primer to use. No rust will come through ever !!. Nice finish on the wheels though. Guess i have the best of both worlds I'm a Fisherman /Boater and I have all the tools to repair or rebuild anything i own. Not a bad feeling at all. You may be a little easy on the financing though. As all of us know "Boat" stands for "Break out another Thousand".

 

[graham-xrf]

Sacreligious , Graham if you were a boater you would have known Zinc Chromate or Zink Phospate is the best primer to use. No rust will come through ever !!. Nice finish on the wheels though. Guess i have the best of both worlds I'm a Fisherman /Boater and I have all the tools to repair or rebuild anything i own. Not a bad feeling at all. You may be a little easy on the financing though. As all of us know "Boat" stands for "Break out another Thousand".

Thanks @Old Mud. You have triggered a little recall. I have had a "new old stock" 1L can of Zinc Chromate primer rescued unused from an aircraft spar repair operation, stashed in the garage. I don't think this inorganic stuff can change ? I am hoping there is no deterioration. Chemical theory based, I am guessing it's OK. It is pale greenish stuff that seems to take a long time to dry.
BUT - is that not intended for Aluminum surfaces (as in airframes)?

Given you said the word "rust", I am thinking your boating experience of laying on Zinc Chromate includes on iron and steel.
Re: Rust
From actual cleanup experience, if you use a steam cleaner to shift the grime, or use any kind of acid, helped along by electrolysis in any way, the instant the surface slightly dries, and sees oxygen, it turns orange in about 15 seconds. The first rust cannot be stopped. The future rust stopped only by denying oxygen by coatings, paint, whatever. You can convert the surface to magnetite, and inhibit it that way - or convert established rust.

I found sticking it immediately into something caustic, or even rubbing wet soap on it, anything to neutralize the stuff, does work. So now, I use simple washing soda for the whole process. Heat in alkali, and it makes something darker on the surface, but rust is stopped dead. Then paint it.

You can use electrolysis in washing soda (Sodium Carbonate) to de-rust, and it is cleaner if you make the other electrode carbon instead of old rebar, and it is self-limiting. When it runs out of rust to convert, it ends up making Hydrogen and Oxygen. It cannot chew down, nor modify the dimensions of the metal.

I follow your lead here in the elements naming protocol. I guess we are supposed to use capital letter names for elements which, because they are (elements) get the honoured spot in the Table Periodic.

Right-on that B.O.A.T. cranks up in $$Thousands. Posts #1, #2, #3 would have had it "Standing in a cold shower, tearing up Jacksons". Hmm - given inflation and all - better make that "Grants" (I think).
I still consider @Martin W tears up the coolest-sounding "Mackenzie Kings".

Edit: P.S I am told by my son that real elements do not get a proper name capitalization unless they are the "me too" sort beloved of cosmetic companies who will dream up names ending in "ium". This for their worthless, but expensively packaged crap to lend it an aura that it might really be associated with a scientific truth! The symbols however, are definitely capitals, or start with capitals.

 

[Old Mud]

Hi Graham, Yes almost everything on aircraft is primed with Zinc Chromate. Yes it is used on airfraims. But great on anything Aluminum or steel in the marine environment. (Save the underwater gear). Zinc is quite a nobel metal and therefore will be first to corrode (before steel, Stainless steel, bronze, copper or aluminum.) when immersed in Salt water. Yes pickling of any kind is usually good to do for a prep.

Ok now don't worry about the Capitals with me because i usually use capitals weather i need them or not, when i'm trying to Emphasize.