Single Point Threading on a PM-1030V?

I think I remember the first part of this question from a while ago, and if I recall correctly the “H” represents a spacer which, depending if it it is in the front position or the rear position, affects which gear wheel engages the lead screw. Why they chose to use an “H” wasn’t clear, but the most popular guess was that it was short for “Hempty”
 
Have got the manual off of P-M's site, now,
Step 1: post up a picture of the chart(s) off of your machine.
*EDIT* NVM.... (hehe)
I would change your set-up a bit , and this is only my opinion not knowing what lathe you're using . I myself would keep your tailstock quill in as far as possible , and have my tool hang out a little for clearance . That overhang in the tailstock will introduce chatter and possibly even a tapered part . A cnc reduced center would buy you some tool clearance . This is only my opinion , take it with a grain of salt .:)
Great advice! That is a slim body live center https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/lc-mt2-slm/ , and I could move the location of the compound so that I could draw in the tailstock quill. The DRO scale makes the cross slide wider.
 
Every little detail helps in lathe work , especially in shaft work . You want your set-ups to be as rigid as possible . Once you get chatter in the middle of shaft , it is darn near impossible to get it out ! :big grin:
 
Every little detail helps in lathe work , especially in shaft work . You want your set-ups to be as rigid as possible . Once you get chatter in the middle of shaft , it is darn near impossible to get it out ! :big grin:

Yes, I have had that happen. A recipe for scrap material.
 
I believe that this is the gear configuration on a stock PM-1030V. I am almost positive this is what I have. I wonder what size threads one can cut with this gear configuration.

NEW-THREAD-TABLE-2017.jpg
 
Yes, I have had that happen. A recipe for scrap material.

Yes , so have I . :grin: Had to stretch cylindrical grinders for oversize shafts for years . When your wheel decides to break down at the very most worst spot possible , it was a very delicate process to save the shaft . And , sometimes you couldn't , if close to your finish OD . Part of the trade , you get used to it . :encourage:
 

I know it's for a different model, but the chart looks like it works the same way.
 
Generally speaking, I wonder how practical it is to change the gear configuration most of the times that you are going to cut threads. I'm sure that many people are gonna reach for the tap and die.
 
I use taps frequently. I like single point external threading though. It helps that I recently built an electronic leadscrew. So I just push a couple buttons and I'm off.
 
Generally speaking, I wonder how practical it is to change the gear configuration most of the times that you are going to cut threads. I'm sure that many people are gonna reach for the tap and die.
Depends on what quality of thread you need.
With a quick change on the 1440 - no problem, now when I only had the Logan, I'd do as you noted and run a die. Changing the gears is a PITA.
 
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