Why is it acceptable

I'm the one that he was talking to. And I have to say that so far I'm not seeing anyone contradict what I told him over the phone. The point is not that you're wrong about the chuck, the point is to do the due diligence to make sure the chuck is out. If the chuck is not bad, you absolutely will be able to get it running straight using the methods repeated here. If you can't, we've never had a problem with taking back or replacing a defective product. and if this is bad we will. I've already pointed out this thread to Matt as well, so he can Gibbs slap me if he thinks I was wrong about anything.
edit:
And yes, I though you had a different chuck with a backplate. My bad there!
 
Have a cup of tea, take a deep breath and start from scratch. Carefully inspect the spindle and measure to see if there is any runout. Blow out the stud holes. Try Bluing the taper section, this should show any tight spots. Check everywhere for they tiniest burr, ding or piece of crud. Turns of the studs don't matter it is the indicator marks that do.
I hope you are keeping a written record of ALL dealings with the vendor rep? Date, time, what was said etc. Take photographs of what procedure you follow as well. That chuck looks very well finished,(should for the price!), but strange things do happen.
 
Live center in the tailstock and a block, wood or anything, between the point and the chuck face. This should push it onto the taper fairly straight and now take a feeler gauge and measure at 3-4 places. I think it is unacceptable to have to fit a camlock chuck. Bet you wouldn't have to on Cushman
 
One other thing, watch your max speed. I believe the 8" cast iron 4 jaws are limited below 2000 rpm. You might have to go to steel chuck if you are intent on spinning that fast. Look on the chuck face and should give the max rpm.
 
That looks like one our our chucks, I can not quite figure out the name on the order for sure, but I looked up the city and took a guess. I won't give any info if you did not post, just to keep your name and all to yourself. Not 100% sure if this is who I think, maybe a 75/50 shot but that looks like one of our 4 jaw chucks. If its us, feel free to post if its us and details about what you have, no reason to hide anything, us and everyone can help you figure it out. We were all new at once, as long as people are polite and willing to take advice, we will help anyone.

Just a few pointers, whether our machine or not, not sure if I/you understand the mounting completely:

1. Yes, the faces of the blue arrows you drew are supposed to mount flush with each other. Nice and tight, absolutely zero gap. .001 here will cause wobble and runout.

2. The camlock studs are not supposed to bottom out, there is the groove machined around them and thats where you start as a reference point, then you go from there and adjust until your cams lock, you want your cams to lock between 3 and 6 o clock. If its at the 6 to 12 mark like you said, its too loose. When you are at the 6 and 12, remove the chuck and screw the camlock stud in one turn, that should be the right setting. It does not matter if they are slightly different.

3. The sharpie is not really a good indicator, you need something like a feeler gage to see if there is any gap, although you can normally see it, possibly need a light. Just make sure its all going on straight and there are no burrs raised in the taper bore if it was pulley a little crooked before.

4. If he mentioned sanding anything on the taper in the chuck, I have seen them where burrs or indentations come up if you try to put it on and its pulled crooked, and it has to be just right. He was not saying to machine that down. Now it is common with a chuck with back plates, you mount the back plate to the spindle, take a cut on that, then mount the chuck. Then you are dead on with the machine. But the chuck in the pic is a one piece. No back plate.

5. Can you send or post a video? That might help. If the chuck has wobble, it seems like it is not pulling up on to the spindle all the way. I am not sure what was meant by the OD of the chuck has .0005 runout (Which is fine) but the back has .0045?

6. I do not know what you mean about the tool post in your first post, that makes it seem even more like its one of our machines since this order had a tool post on it, the tool post is a straight bolt in on this machine, nothing has to be modified on it, maybe its something different.

If it is a machine and / or chuck from us, you can also email at tech@precisionmatthews.com and they will help, I did search the email I think it is and I have zero emails so I am not quite sure. We are here to help if needed, things can be frustrating sometimes but Ive done this 1000 times and have no problem helping out (And obviously some of the people on here too)
 
Guess Mike and I were posting at the same time after he told me. As far as jaws being tight, I personally think they are just right. I think some of its from people being used to a well worn in chuck where you can twirl the chuck wrench around with one finger, but I don't know. Any one that I have ever checked was OK

Anyway let us know, we will get you fixed up.
 
On my lathe with the same D1-4 chuck camlocks the chuck sits flat with in a few thou of the spindle face. Check for burrs or dirt.
The camlocks secure the chuck to the spindle, the female taper on the chuck ensures proper alignment with the spindle. Be sure the male and female tapers are clean.
Be sure to tighten each camlock loosely on the first go around and then come back a torque them down solidly. I remount the chuck till I get the least
runout and then mark the spindle and chuck position for repeatability. I used some Dykem red dye
 
Thanks point of this thread wasnt to bash your company. Love the lathe and everything I recieved with it so far except the issues I'm having with chuck. Thanks for standing by product.
 
Agreed, it's not about bashing anything. Once you have identified the problem of the chuck not seating now you can remedy it, new chuck, return and get another or fix the one you have. But I still think is is unacceptable, machinist for 25 years and have never needed to seat a chuck except those using a backplate
 
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