MIG progress

I can't take credit for the table design. I looked at hundreds of pictures on google and picked one that was a mix of sturdy, functional and within my skills to build.

I plan to paint all but the top surface to prevent rust. What do people do to prevent rust on the top surface? I don't have a large rust problem where I am but eventually any untreated surface will rust. I am just assuming that wiping down with oil is not advisable on a welding table.
 
Boswell said:
I plan to paint all but the top surface to prevent rust. What do people do to prevent rust on the top surface? I don't have a large rust problem where I am but eventually any untreated surface will rust. I am just assuming that wiping down with oil is not advisable on a welding table.
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Use it a LOT !! :big grin:
 
Boswell said:
What do people do to prevent rust on the top surface?
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I use a scotch brite wheel on my angle grinder and WD 40 on mine. Usually only have to do this about twice a year.
 
Welds are look cold as evidenced by the sharp toe angle to the base metal. Part of it might have been settings, and part of it will have been not cleaning the millscale off. Millscale is an oxide (of iron), and when there all the deoxidizers in the filler metal have been depleted "eating up" what ever oxides they could, the remaining oxides have no where to go and stay mixed-in within the puddle and they make it sluggish because they increase the surface tension of the weld puddle (reduced "fluidity"); this causes the puddle to not want to wash out on the toes/edges and behaves more like a bead of water on a waxed car (as a visual example). Always practice on scrap first! ;) Even then, I doubt they will break unless they are severely stressed with a very large load.
 
When I welded the frame, I took great care to use a flap wheel to clean the mating surfaces to bright metal. When moved to the surface 1x3 tubes, I got lazy and only degreased them. I have four more to attache this weekend and will use the flap wheel on the surfaces. When I decided I wanted to learn to weld, I had no idea that 80% of the work would be cleaning and surface prep instead of actual welding.
 
I grind clean, and wipe with lacquer thinner.
Do not use Brakleen red to prep it gets into cracks, stays wet, and when heated the smoke has a nerve agent in it. (it's on the can)
 
Yep green can is non-chlorinated.
 
Aukai said:
I grind clean, and wipe with lacquer thinner.
Do not use Brakleen red to prep it gets into cracks, stays wet, and when heated the smoke has a nerve agent in it. (it's on the can)
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only chlorinated brakleen is deadly. non-chlorinated is safe as long as it evaporates. Not sure which can the red is though.
 
Green is non chlorinated, red is dangerous. When they get into a joint it takes a bit for them to evaporate.
 
Aukai said:
Green is non chlorinated, red is dangerous. When they get into a joint it takes a bit for them to evaporate.
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Got it. When possible, I wipe with acetone to remove oil/grease, then I get rid of millscale before ever assembling a joint.
 
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