1/6th scale 1890's 30ft navy steam cutter (live steam)

took a few photos for another site's virtual show.. the engine and boat parts so far..
 

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very very busy with that work crap.. but did manage to make a period correct push-pull throttle valve,, the original would of had a sliding plate,, due to scaling down the plate was replaced with a piston,, seems to work testing with air, will have to see with steam,, there is a drum type that would also be correct. I can modify some existing proven scale throttle plans for that type if needed,, slim seems to think wide open is the only position..
 

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well the crank (loctite and pinned) failed at a joint, machined up parts to solder/braze a new crank. my old flux, the steel parts and solder did not get along and only three of the eight joints flowed.. started new parts(again) ordered new flux, including stay-silv high temp black(better for ferrous work) the wonderful packing by the smile box people had this result when the box arrived..no padding in the box, yes they are replacing it.. it's been one of those weeks..
 

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Very nice work! This is craftsmanship at it's best!
Slim seems to be pulling his on weight.
 
soldered up a crank but not completely happy with it.. Decided to try another loctite crank seeing I'm getting really good at making crank webs,, did do some diamond honing to one of my 5/16ths reamers and think the results were much better,, the crank assembled well,, gave slim the job of watching the loctite cure over the weekend..
 

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Have you considered pining the connection?

Cross drill then press in pinto secure.

Solder will keep it from moving and pin hlds against stresses

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
both cranks will be pinned,,(as was the the one that failed) setting up the little unimat in drill press mode as it has a much better "feel" for fine drilling the sub 1/16th" holes,, the soldered crank is slightly out of true, have not tried to "adjust" it yet.. the loctight crank went together so nicely,, the webs fit tight but a drop of oil allowed them to slide smoothly,, the 603 wicked in all the joints perfectly as I slid the parts together.. also the shafting is from another source and may have helped it the fit along with the honing of the reamer. (all parts were lightly sanded to give a micro tooth to the surfaces, washed with simple green, followed by an acetone dip.)
 
using my mill at full speed, making sure there was always oil at the drill tip and lots of backing out to clear chips the 8 through holes for pinning were drilled,, cut 1/16th rod for the pins,, each one was sanded a bit for a tight fit..dipped in 603 and they driven in place.. after trimming the crank webs were belt ground to shape,, constant cold water quenching never allowed the crank to get warm.. after a little work on base bearings the crank was fitted,, after a little run in it's tight with no play but will spin with a flick of a finger..still have to cut the shaft sections away, slim claims his involvement caused the better results..
 

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