101.07403 To Paint or Not?

First, best guess on when the machine was originally made (or actually when the spindle bearings were made) is around January of 1945. The QCGB was fitted sometime after late 1950, converting it to the equivalent of a 101.27430..

On the paint question, in your photos the majority of the machine looks very nice. Exceptions may be the spindle belt cover and the tailstock. However, I can't tell for certain that their appearance is not due to a combination of available lighting color coupled with poor color latitude of the camera that made the photos. If they actually look as the photographs show them, I would match their color with the paint on the rest of the machine, and leave the rest of the machine alone. Nothing that you could do to it will inprove the appearance, and if you completely disassemble it for stripping and repainting, the odds are about 30:70 that you will never get it back together.
 
If you do decide to paint it, I recommend that you choose your paint carefully. I painted the table on which my lathe is mounted. The paint that I used does not stand up to acetone or isopropyl alcohol - two common chemicals in my shop. The original paint (baked enamel?) on the lathe is no problem.
 
First, best guess on when the machine was originally made (or actually when the spindle bearings were made) is around January of 1945. The QCGB was fitted sometime after late 1950, converting it to the equivalent of a 101.27430..

On the paint question, in your photos the majority of the machine looks very nice. Exceptions may be the spindle belt cover and the tailstock. However, I can't tell for certain that their appearance is not due to a combination of available lighting color coupled with poor color latitude of the camera that made the photos. If they actually look as the photographs show them, I would match their color with the paint on the rest of the machine, and leave the rest of the machine alone. Nothing that you could do to it will inprove the appearance, and if you completely disassemble it for stripping and repainting, the odds are about 30:70 that you will never get it back together.
I think the discrepancies in color are primarily lighting and a finger smudged lense on my iPhone. But there are some slight differences in color shades. I really appreciate the date information. I’m a 1952 model so I can relate to 1945 and ‘50. I can also relate to never finishing a reassembly project. I may just do a “frame on” paint job and leave it at that. I bought the little lathe to use and plan to do that. Thanks for the input.
Dave
 
If you do decide to paint it, I recommend that you choose your paint carefully. I painted the table on which my lathe is mounted. The paint that I used does not stand up to acetone or isopropyl alcohol - two common chemicals in my shop. The original paint (baked enamel?) on the lathe is no problem.
That’s a very good point. Acetone is abundant in my little shop.
 
I painted the splash backs of my 9x20.
Looked good at the beginning but looks like crap now.
The cutting oil I use has lifted the original paint on the bed and other parts and devastated the splash backs.
I would think powder coating would work but thats a lot of work and cost.
I used automotive paint and undercoat, bad idea.
 
In my view that lathe looks great just the way it is. It's not rusty, it doesn't look abused and the paint appears to be in good shape
given the age of the machine. I'd just spend the time and effort making sure it's mechanically sound.
 
In my view that lathe looks great just the way it is. It's not rusty, it doesn't look abused and the paint appears to be in good shape
given the age of the machine. I'd just spend the time and effort making sure it's mechanically sound.
Best I can tell it’s in pretty good shape. No rust. I put the indicators on it and spindle shaft runout is nil. Gears all good and ways have no discernible wear. It needed a lot of cleanup, lubrication and alignment. The old gentleman I bought it from had owned it for over thirty years and had it rigged to do do wood work for making toys. It has an old, reversible Wards 1/3 hp motor, which is a good thing because the motor will bog down before it breaks a Zamack gear. I’ve been having a ball with it. Thanks!
 
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