1236 Questions

Yeah, and today is garbage collection day. I'd be out there in the cold and snow rummaging through the bags trying to find them.

Wait! Snow? Wow, I just realized we got snow for the first time last night. Man, I hope this weather pattern doesn't mean we're going to get snow into June. I'll need to trade in the motorcycles for a snowmobile... blah!

Thanks QMT!!!
 
While reading online I noticed some lathes use wipers to keep the ways clean. Seemed like a logical idea so I was curious why the PM1236 doesn't have them and if anyone added them to their machine. Thanks.
 
65Cobra427SC said:
While reading online I noticed some lathes use wipers to keep the ways clean. Seemed like a logical idea so I was curious why the PM1236 doesn't have them and if anyone added them to their machine. Thanks.
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The PM1236 does have wipers on both ends of the carriage, 4 to be exact, the tailstock does not. They're not felt wipers but rather a rubber type. Well at least on my PM1236 (mfg 2009) & all the others I've seen.

You can replace them with felt from Mcmaster. Some people have added wipers to the tailstock.
 
You're correct Will. I saw those black pieces on each end of the carriage before but never realized rubber was clamped between them and the carriage. Actually they are more compact and neater than I expected which was a bonus. Thanks.
 
A while back I squirted oil into the (15) ball oilers in various locations on the lathe. But when I went to oil the top three on the cross slide, two of them suddenly pushed inward. I only recently started referring to the Grizzly manual and noticed it says "Proper lubrication of ball oilers is done with a pump-type oil can that has a plastic or rubberized cone tip. We do not recommend using metal needle or lance tips, as they can push the ball too far into the oiler, break the spring seat, and lodge the ball in the oil galley." Too late, ha. One ball oiler was only pushed in slightly... the other went further. Anyone know how to pull them upward or to remove and check? Thanks.
 
mksj said:
They both do the same functions, so no difference between the models other than ES12 has a slightly different interface and graphical display (they both do radius and diameter in the lathe setting for the "X" axis). I had ordered my lathe with the ES12, as I prefer the graphical display and thought it was a 3 axis display and I could use the 3rd axis with either the tailstock or a tool post magnetic scale. Not sure how the 3rd "Z" axis would interface/display when the DRO is set for lathe functions. Ends up the version sent from Matt with the lathe is only 2 axis. I installed an Igaging Absolute on the tailstock, which worked out very well and is quite a bit cheaper. I believe the price difference between the 2 models is around $100, a 3rd axis would be at least another $100 plus the cost of another scale. Not worth it. I can't imagine turning without a DRO, would be much more time consuming/mistakes, and between my memory and my vision digital is much easier.

One of the quirks on the ES-12, is that the travel speed indicated of an axis is gibberish when feeding (or stationary). Otherwise it is very nice and easy to use.
Mark

View attachment 111456
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Can you tell me where u got this dro for tailstock? Also, did u buy the quill bracket or make it? Thanks

Richard
 
Hi Richard,

That is an Igaging Absolute 6" DRO purchased from Grizzly. The Absolute scale is very accurate, and I have had no problems with it dropping it's position. It does have an auto-shutoff, so it turns off in about 5 minutes. If I recall the scale needs to go in one direction (do not flip it), I trimmed about an 1" off the scale on one end with a die grinder, it is hardened SS. I machined the brackets out of aluminum, the readout swivels up/down and left/right. If I had room, I would have put the reader on the backside of the tailstock and the readout hinge on the top. If you want some more detailed photos or information pm me.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Absolute-Digital-Read-Out-6-/T26539
Mark
 
65Cobra427SC said:
But when I went to oil the top three on the cross slide, two of them suddenly pushed inward.
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Common problem. Doesn't matter if you use a plastic tip oiler, it is still going to happen. They are just really cheap. You can buy replacements from grizzly. If you look on the product page for any of the lathes, there is a "Purchase Parts" link under the picture that will send you to a diagram page that you can select parts from.

For example, my G0709 uses the 8mm ball oiler press-in fittings on the carriage and cross slide, 6mm ball oilers on the compound. If your lathe has the press-in type, then you can probably buy some replacements from them. Some lathes also use 10mm oilers, IIRC. $1.25 for a new one:
http://www.grizzly.com/parts/P07090605
http://www.grizzly.com/parts/P07090705
http://grizzly.com/parts/PT10718024

I think the PM1236 is closest to the 750G, which may use the same 6mm and 8mm as my lathe (the diagram shows 7mm on the cross-slide, but the part number links you to the 6mm oiler and Grizzly doesn't seem to carry a 7mm oiler. Go figure).

Apparently they pop out if you pry them gently with a knife blade. Reminds me; I need to buy 3 new ones, as I am in the same boat you are in.

If I ever get ambitious, I will pull the carriage off and tap the oiler holes and thread in grease fittings (using a oil gun that mates with the grease fitting, not so I can put grease in it).
 
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Thanks for the info Tim. I'll try new ones this time but if it happens again it likely means the hole is slightly too large, rather than the bb oiler being too small. At that point I'll replace them with something else. The grease fitting idea sounds fine but you would think there has to be something else that doesn't require a different fitting. Can you use something like those oil fillers with the flip top lid? Or something similar with threads? Sounds like it's time to check McMaster and a few other places for other options.
 
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