12x36 Lathe: CCMT21.51 or 32.51?

Yeah, I'm not saying they're right. Hopefully, they're wrong and they are 100% USA. Will, what inserts (Iscar, Hertel, etc.) are you using on your main turning bars if ya don't mind?

Honestly, any name brand will do you just fine in the appropiate grade. With the generic inserts it's crap shoot on what grade you are getting, some may work fine, some may not. Every manufacturer has their own flavor of carbide grade & if some one thinks insert designations are confusing, knowing every manufacturer's carbide grade is not easy. Really you just have to open a catalog & study.

I mostly use Korloy, Iscar, & Taegutec/Ingersoll the most. But I do use inserts from Sandvik, Kenametal, Mitsubishi, Tungaloy, Valenite, Carmex, Nikcole, Manchester & more. No rhyme or reason on name brand, brand I use is dictated by insert type, grade, & cause I got them for great prices ($2-$3 per insert). As a hobbyist, which name brand you use doesn't matter much cause you're not relying on dealer/manufacturer support as much.
 
I tried turning a hardened shaft that came out of a ultrasonic welding machine that made ink cartridges for Oki Data. The HQ in Japan didn't want to move the machine so we took parts off of it before it got scrapped. Not sure how hard that shaft was but it was really hard. I tried using a CNMG 432 insert that was probably not suited for turning hardened alloy & the shaft won. I was able to face it after cutting a piece off with an angle grinder but that was just about all I did IIRC. I wonder how true that shaft is, I think I still have it somewhere, might be useful if it is.
 
If your looking for a proper grade tool for hardened material on the cheap Sherline sell a 3/8 ceramic tool holder and the ceramic insert is around 15$. Yes Sherline. Cheap and you can throw it in the tool box for another few years until needed.
Nice to have just for those times your fighting some hardened material. Ler her fly! they like the rpms. Actually crazy rpms amd don t be afraid of the sparks and colours If you go this route.
I use them to clean up flywheels and such. Gets right throught the hots spots for a true flat finish.
Could not justify a bigger size for the cost and amount of use but sure nice to have as it s light cuts anyways!
 
Wow. I bought 5/8 shank SCLC, both left and right versions, from McMaster. They are Dorians. Also picked up some of these "economy" carbide inserts from McMaster. I cannot believe what a beautiful finish I got. I must have tried my old file on this metal because my new file was able to cut into it, though not deeply. So after getting the nice finish I switched over to my freshly sharpened HSS bit for the heckuvit and got lines. Very ugly finish. Messed with my speed and feed and couldn't get nowhere near as nice a finish as with the carbide. Must be the larger 32.51 nose radius of the carbide compared to the very small radius of my 1/4" bit in the Daimond tool holder. I tried the carbide on some other metals I had laying around. Wow. Very nice finishes. Don't know how well I'll be able to creep up on a diameter but I'll be testing more this weekend. Oh man...I may be a carbide convert. :big grin:
 
What DOC for the carbide and HSS?
 
DOC for carbide was 0.002" to 0.006" and for HSS was about 0.001 to 0.002". I wasn't pushing it.
 
The nose radius typically dictates the minimum depth of cut, something like 1/2 the nose radius. There are many factors, also the type of insert, rake, molded vs. ground, etc.

You will find that something like a CCMT 32.51 is a good all around and durable insert for metal removal, if you want a better surface finish then go to a 32.52 and increase the feed. The feed rate is typically 1/2 the nose radius, but may be slower which may or may not improve surface finish. So for a 32.51 a feed of something around 0.008' (nose radius is 0.016"). Go too slow and you will push the material and not cut it. Metals like stainless 300 series and steel like 4140 require higher reguire higher feeds (and adequate depth of cut) otherwise they work hardened. Also increase the feed rate to break the chips. If you want to cut a very small depth, then I would switch to a sharper ground positive rake edge, (like a CCGT) as is often used for aluminum. You can get very fine shavings, almost like steel wool. But you are much better off taking the last 2 or 3 cuts at something like 0.005-0.08" and measuring the actual cut vs. expected and compensating for the difference. Going to a larger nose radius will give a smoother finish, but applies more force on the cutting edge which can cause chatter in a less rigid setup, also you need to increase the feed rate.

HSS, it is probably how it is ground and the nose radius/geometry. I do not use it because of the convenience of using the inserts, they last a long time, and they are quick to switch out for different materials without changing the cutting position. I can purchase a box of the Iscar CCMT32.51 IC907, a great all around grade for $30-40, and they can last me 2 years. Korloy polished carbide CCGT inserts for aluminum. I have some Kennametal inserts that I picked up for more exotic materials, but haven't had to use them. I find on boring bars that I do better with something like a CCGT 32.52 insert, I seem to get less chatter even though the nose is bigger. Probably the sharper edge decreases some of the cutting pressure. I also use a CPGT 32.51 insert in my positive rake boring bars. This decreases the cutting force, but the geometry make the insert edge more fragile. Worth reading up and experimenting, I am always learning new information and seeing what works.
 
Reading this one with interest, learning about the indexable tool types as I only have experience with the inexpensive TCMT 21.52 types and just recently purchased some SCLCR boring bars that use CCMT0602.
 
CCMT 0602 is the same as CCMT 21.51, right?
 
CCMT 0602 is the same as CCMT 21.51, right?
See I didn't even know that but looks like you're right. I guess the numbering standards differ in ISO vs. whatever other standards are out there.
This means I just need to buy a couple of SCLC tool holders so I can use the same inserts as my boring bars.
 
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