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1340 Jog/joy switch question

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Djl338

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#1
I have my new 1340 lathe setup and running off of the hitachi VFD using the stock contactors. I have the suggested joystick with 4-no switch blocks.
Using the below diagram, I’m not clear in if the #1 fwd and #2 rev outputs go into the contactors through the #4 and #5 terminals or directly to the inputs for #1 #2 p24/L on the contactors. Does the removed #3 jog switch wire need to be just removed? I can see that the #3 vfd input should go directly to the vfd input. And assuming the input from the E-switch on the stock switch #1? just gets taped and secured for continuity, I saw two other sets of joy stick instruction with various other options and just want to do it correctly without smoke. Thanks in-advance, the directions for the install are great and love the quality of the lathe. Still need to finish cleaning then leveling. Merry Christmas to me
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pstemari

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#2
Not sure why you have the stock contactors still in play, but you appear to have the appropriate connections for your jog switch. I set mine up with a single jog button and a selector switch for forward/reverse. The main thing is that you need one connection to the 24v power to the signal common and then switch the other side of the supply into the inputs.

Iirc mine is programmed to have a jog input, a forward input, and a reverse input. The lathe controls turn on either the forward or reverse inputs, and the jog button turns on the jog and either the forward or the reverse via a diode. If you have any glitching, you can program in a few milliseconds of delay to your inputs. I have a delay on the forward and reverse inputs, so that when you press the jog button, it obeys the jog input immediately and then the direction input. Without the delay, it could attempt to start at full speed and then slow down to jog speed.

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mksj

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The diagram is connections to the VFD inputs. Depending on if your VFD is setup for Sink (default) "L" or Source "P24" connection, that becomes the input to the the Jog blocks. The output goes directly to the VFD inputs where 1 is programmed for Forward, 2 is programmed for Reverse and 3 is programmed for Jog. The WJ200 needs both the Jog input to be active (which sets the speed) and a direction input to be active. In some VFDs a single input can be programmed for Jog Forward and a separate for Jog Backwards, but it varies. With the WJ200 you must program Input 3 to Jog 06 Jogging.

I have not seen an issue with the timing of having both signals occurring at the same time. If you are using 2 switch blocks with logic diodes, both signals occur at the same time.
 

Djl338

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The diagram is connections to the VFD inputs. Depending on if your VFD is setup for Sink (default) "L" or Source "P24" connection, that becomes the input to the the Jog blocks. The output goes directly to the VFD inputs where 1 is programmed for Forward, 2 is programmed for Reverse and 3 is programmed for Jog. The WJ200 needs both the Jog input to be active (which sets the speed) and a direction input to be active. In some VFDs a single input can be programmed for Jog Forward and a separate for Jog Backwards, but it varies. With the WJ200 you must program Input 3 to Jog 06 Jogging.

I have not seen an issue with the timing of having both signals occurring at the same time. If you are using 2 switch blocks with logic diodes, both signals occur at the same time.
Ok, thanks that clears it up. Then the switch can be used independent from the machine basic configuration using the contractors? Mark I looked at one of your other configurations with a lighted E-stop, and it uses machine terminal 3# the old jog terminal switch as aninput is that for 24v input to the joystick?
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mksj

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#5
You are correct in that the Joystick operation is completely independent of the machine system and contactors, so it would operate if the lathe was running and/or the E-Stop was depressed. What I typically recommend is that the E-Stop switch is replaced with one that has two NC switch blocks, one is connected to the 24VAC line same as the original configuration, the other side is connected to the VFD sink/source line/wire before it connects to any of the switch blocks/contactors. So you are blocking both the signaling path to the VFD inputs and also the 24VAC control power to the contactors. There are various schematic versions posted, these are a starting point for your own version of implementation (at your own risk).

There are many ways to wire these up, so for the jog, it is also possible to wire one set of switch blocks to the 24 VAC from the E-Stop and then this would go to the respective Forward/Reverse Contactor coil connection and the second set of switch blocks both inputs would be connected to the VFD Sink/Source line and the both output of these switch blocks would be connected to a single wire going to VFD JOG input 3. When the Jog is operated it would recieve a signal to JOG input 3 and the respective run direction contactor would operate. With this configuration the standard E-Stop which interrupts the 24VAC to the contactors would prevent the run command (FOR/REV) from operating. So all you would need to do is add a black wire from the 24 VAC switch block from the E-Stop to the 24VAC JOG switch blocks as shown in the below schematic with the stock E-Stop. If you have a E-Stop with 2 switch blocks you can also interupt the VFD signaling as an additional safety margin. All my current schematic designs use 2 or 3 simultaneous switching operations for any run command to execute for safety reasons. I no longer post complete documents to this forum, but if you want further information you can PM with your email and I will send complete documents to you.
Mark
 

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Djl338

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#6
Thank you, I ordered an illuminated e-stop from automation and will go that route, it seems like a safe way to processed. I’m learning a new skill set, but it’s staring to make sense. When I ordered the lathe, from QMS, I asked for any info on the vfd install, and they sent me one of your write-ups as well as another similar basic configuration. It really was an easy conversion, I think I spent more time mounting the vfd, wiring a new circuit from the breaker box than the entire conversion!
BTW, I ordered a legend plate for the joystick from Amazon, less than $6.00, they sent me 10. So, if anyone wants to dress up their 22 mm joystick, PM me with your address and I’ll drop one in the mail
Thanks again
David 67EAAA78-CD3F-4D44-80BA-10B829ECDE40.jpeg
 

P. Waller

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#7
Is this a machine without a dedicated jog feature?

Many machines use a hand wheel for this purpose, Mazak, Haas, Fadal, Fanuc and Trak are examples, chose the axis and and have at it.
Most machines will also jog from the keyboard keys, rough jog close to the part then fine jog to touch off an edge finder or tool. This is often in .0005" increments so get very close before doing so.
 

Djl338

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#8
Is this a machine without a dedicated jog feature?

Many machines use a hand wheel for this purpose, Mazak, Haas, Fadal, Fanuc and Trak are examples, chose the axis and and have at it.
Most machines will also jog from the keyboard keys, rough jog close to the part then fine jog to touch off an edge finder or tool. This is often in .0005" increments so get very close before doing so.
There is a jog switch, fwd only, and it works fine. I really want this setup mainly for threading
 

P. Waller

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There is a jog switch, fwd only, and it works fine. I really want this setup mainly for threading
How does one use a jog feature for threading?
 
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