$150 South Bend 9B

And the clockworks inside the Furnas switch just exploded all over my shop.

Well, I guess I now have the excuse (ha!) to pull my shop apart AGAIN to find the little wheel that is under tension and shoots across space at the slightest provocation.
 
So, lest anyone forgot or thought I had abandend this project, we have gotten the motor mounted, a new Square D drum switch sorted (thanks Mark!):

I do need to fabricate a cover for the motor electric connections box, and the mounting of the SquareD is being one of those fussy little things that should only take a second but is being a pain in the keister; the two mounting screws are the (as far as I can tell) only 12-24 screws on the whole thing, while the matching holes on the switch are sized for 10-32. No big deal, right? But, the spacing is slightly off, wider on the lathe. Ream them out, but screw falls under the machinist chest below the lathe... That sort of thing. No big deal, just annoying.

Anyway, I started pulling apart the carriage last night, and found a bent cross slide screw:


I am not too surprised by that, as the cross slide base was broken off a couple inches from the end. I have another, thanks to my friend Jabber, but I do need to source another screw. Also, the lace up belt I had sitting around is about 3-4 inches too short. So it goes.

Until next time.
 
Last edited:
Aaron David said:
So, lest anyone forgot or thought I had abandend this project, we have gotten the motor mounted, a new Square D drum switch sorted (thanks Mark!):

I do need to fabricate a cover for the motor electric connections box, and the mounting of the SquareD is being one of those fussy little things that should only take a second but is being a pain in the keister; the two mounting screws are the (as far as I can tell) only 12-24 screws on the whole thing, while the matching holes on the switch are sized for 10-32. No big deal, right? But, the spacing is slightly off, wider on the lathe. Ream them out, but screw falls under the machinist chest below the lathe... That sort of thing. No big deal, just annoying.

Anyway, I started pulling apart the carriage last night, and found a bent cross slide screw:


I am not too surprised by that, as the cross slide base was broken off a couple inches from the end. I have another, thanks to my friend Jabber, but I do need to source another screw. Also, the lace up belt I had sitting around is about 3-4 inches too short. So it goes.

Until next time.
Click to expand...
I might have a replacement for you.
 
Todays project was to get the screw out of the cross slide base. This, as most of you probably know, is done by using a pin spanner with a 5/32" pin. Which is only available via eBay for a tool that only South Bend uses. Well, I had an old Armstrong hook spanner that someone had narrowed the hook with a grinder, so I got to work on that:

reshaping the tip


success! and 30 bucks saved.

I am now cleaning up the saddle, while waiting for the replacement screw to come in. Also, my friend came by to look at my old Craftsman 6 inch, and we settled on a price. Now, he just needs to pick it up and I will have some more room in the shop.
 
Spent some time cleaning up the gear train



making sure that there are no burrs

I keep old taps and dies around for cleaning out theads.

I have a question for any South Bend experts: How do you remove the dial on this? I received this great oversized dial crossfeed screw from forum member DavidR8, which I would love to use but I had trouble insterting it into the carriage.

If you are wondering "what is the issue with that, it looks great?" the reason is that the thrust washer is a little damaged, and needs replacing

I should be the case that when the crank handle has been removed the dial and mount should just come off with no more than a few taps due to dryed out grease and oil, but for some reason this is stuck and I don't wan to start using bigger hammers if I might damage something and/or there is a trick to removing it. I seems there is a bearing in the top portion, and I am starting to wonder if it was lock-tited onto the shaft.

Any ideas or solutions would be greatly appreciated!
 
Try heat first. Loctite gives up around 300* F. So does dried oil/grease.

Does the parts list diagram give any hints as to how it comes apart?
 
The parts diagram doesn't show anything special or different. No set screws, snap rings, or anything else.

I guess I will break out a small torch.
 
OK, summer vacations have winded down, the big swap meets have passed, and I am making progress on the lathe.

I set aside the issue of the cross slide screw for a bit, and moved on to the apron. I had ordered a felt kit from Ilion, and have been very impressed by the quality of the product, along with the rebuild book they put together for this project. It has made this increadibly easy. So, following the step by step instructions, I made quick work of the disassembly:

the naked apron

And the pile of parts. These got soaked in a tub of Simple Green over night, to loosen up the gunk and get ready for scrubbing and inspection.


I also gave the chuck a soaking in Evaporust at the same time

you will notice that I also gave any rusty things around the shop that I want to keep a spot in the bath, as Evaporust isn't that cheap and I want to use it as best as possible. Once I pulled it out of the bath, I was easily able to tear it apart for a much needed cleaning

look at all that brass gunk!

Back to the apron. After inspection, the only issue I found was with one half nut, and it really isn't much of an issue

The tip of my screwdriver is pointing to one small chip out of the threads, but other than that they are nice and crisp. Everything else is in good shape, so it all went back together smoothly:


And now back on the carriage

Of course, as soon as I put it all back together, I noticed that I had forgotten to install the carriage lock. So it will be taken back apart to put that last bit in. Three steps forward, two steps back.
 
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