2013 POTD Thread Archive

Started on a bushing for my taper cross slide since I got the new nut today.
I love turning brass.

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I didn't last long as my back said I had enough for today and I need to be up early to go shell more corn so this is as far as I got for tonight.

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The bushing is for this mounting hole in the cross slide and I still need a screw to tighten the nut down with.

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I need to clean up the burrs on the nut threads since the person who made it apparently doesn't pay attention to the finer details.......

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Started on a bushing for my taper cross slide since I got the new nut today.
I love turning brass.

11-04-13-2.jpg

I didn't last long as my back said I had enough for today and I need to be up early to go shell more corn so this is as far as I got for tonight.

11-04-13-3.jpg

The bushing is for this mounting hole in the cross slide and I still need a screw to tighten the nut down with.

11-04-13-4.jpg

I need to clean up the burrs on the nut threads since the person who made it apparently doesn't pay attention to the finer details.......

that's a really tidy job! What size lathe is it for and is it a LH thread? (also, where did you get the LH tap from if so?) I have ~1/4 of a crank slop in both my compound and cross slide so this is something I'd like to do at some point.

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that's a really tidy job! What size lathe is it for and is it a LH thread? (also, where did you get the LH tap from if so?) I have ~1/4 of a crank slop in both my compound and cross slide so this is something I'd like to do at some point.
It's for a South Bend 10K.
I bought the nut on fleabay because I don't have the time right now to try to make a LH tap.

The nut can be part of the slop also wear on the screw and slop on screw mounting by the dial.
Try pulling and pushing on the hand crank and see if it moves.
Mine does just a touch and I have about .010 in slop.
I'm fairly sure my screw and nut that are currently on the cross slide are in great shape.
I needed a new nut because I am adding a taper cross slide to the lathe and plan on building the taper attachment when time permits.
The taper nut is different than the non-taper one.
 
I finished making the bushing for the taper cross slide.
I cut off the piece I started on yesterday from the round bar and drilled the bolt hole, cut a pocket with an end mill to recess the head, faced it and cut an angle on the top edge.

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I had a local fab shop plasma cut 6 disks out of 1/8" CRS so I could machine out some indexing plates for the dividing head I just got. Using the CNC mill it went pretty quick. When I got the first one done I noticed that the holes looked like they were not cut exactly centered. The first pictures shows how off center the holes were. I made an arbor for the disk and chucked it in the lathe. Wow way out of round. I cut the edge back until it was round. The plasma cut edge was hard as a brick to cut. I used a carbide tool and lots of oil but got it round.

just a short note ,if you grind a little bit off the o.d. of those disk it makes it easy to cut, nice work btw
 
It's for a South Bend 10K.
I bought the nut on fleabay because I don't have the time right now to try to make a LH tap.

The nut can be part of the slop also wear on the screw and slop on screw mounting by the dial.
Try pulling and pushing on the hand crank and see if it moves.
Mine does just a touch and I have about .010 in slop.
I'm fairly sure my screw and nut that are currently on the cross slide are in great shape.
I needed a new nut because I am adding a taper cross slide to the lathe and plan on building the taper attachment when time permits.
The taper nut is different than the non-taper one.

doh! that'll teach me to actually read what someone wrote :) Sadly no end play in the cranks, it's all in the nut. For the compound, the screw has actually worn through the side of the nut in places due to a poorly thought out location for the compound pivot screw (one side of the nut has to be a lot thinner to clear it). It's not a major deal now that I have modern digital technology on the slides, but it does bug me.
 
Worked with wood the last few days. This is the mock-up of the engine pod for an A10 Warthog model.

"G-Man"

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With the taper cross slide feed nut and bushing squared away I swapped out the cross slides.

Before:

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During:

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After:

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Moves real smooth too.
Need to start working out the details for building the taper attachment now.....

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Working on a jig to hold a rifle bolt in order to thread the handle for an oversized bolt handle...

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