2014 POTD Thread Archive

If you've seen Abom79's channel on Youtube, you've probably seen him use a Noga indicator holder many times. I've been using a cheaper no-name version for awhile now and really like that style compared to a traditional holder, so when Enco had their last sale I decided to upgrade to a Noga. Adam also uses an adapter so the indicator tip is held straight-out from the holder and I've found this quite handy, so I decided to make a new brass one for the Noga.

indicator_1.jpg

First pic is using the extended center-drill holder which I described earlier in this thread. One thing I've changed since the initial build was stepping-up to a larger set screw, which is now 10-24. It's holding the #3 center-drill fine.

Next is some knurling and then tapping the nut, which was then parted from the brass round stock. After that, you can see the turning of the adapter. The magnetic-backed indicator from Shars is really handy for measuring this type of work.

indicator_2.jpg

Next is threading the end of the adapter with a round die. My next project will be a tailstock tap and die holder, which would have been handy a couple of times just on this job alone.

Collets are really handy for this type of small project. You don't have the distraction of chuck jaws spinning so close to your work and a collet can clamp onto knurling (or threads) without damage when you need to face and chamfer.

Here are two indicator adapters, the top one is the old steel one I made from a bolt.

Next you can see the holder with the indicator held the usual way. With the base switch facing you, the tip isn't facing the work, so you end-up twisting the holder around. Next pic is using the adapter. It's just less awkward for measuring in this direction.

indicator_3.jpg

And the last pic shows a indicator and holder used in a typical situation.

Noga vs the Cheapy Holder

Even though both holders are exactly the same height when extended, the Noga holder's bottom arm is about an inch longer which makes the setup shown in the above picture work instead of requiring sticking the holder on the bed ways. It's much easier to stick the holder on the metal table with my small lathe.

The base fine adjust on the Noga is sweet. No more banging the indicator around trying to get zero.

And, of course, the build quality is better on the more expensive Noga holder. I imagine it will last me for the quite awhile.

indicator_1.jpg indicator_2.jpg indicator_3.jpg
 
Noga indicator holder

Noga, did someone say Noga? I love all my Nogas! I have 5 of them now & there's still 1 or 2 more that I'm looking to get.

Nice job on the indicator stem mount. I'm a fan of Adam too. The stem mount is a great idea for the same reasons he has. I also use the Starrett 670 ID attachment for my dial indicator but I have the shorter one. I thought about making one of those stem mounts too but I use Mitu indicators & their dial indicators have dovetails on them. That's how I mount them as you can see below.


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More! Retail new for a (looks like #4?) Jack plane in the vicinity of $250.

Cheers Phil

I'm not sure if I'm way off here or not with the $100, there are arguments on both sides of the coin but where I'm from a second hand store in town sells good quality old ones anywhere from $50 to $150, and new ones range from $90 (cheap brands) to $190, but that's if you want something really decent. So i kinda agree with you fill, only based on what i have around here.
 
Had me a major wreck!!!

Was truing these spools, wheel spacers for the mule, when one decided to come out of the chuck and jam, against the tool post. Theres no slowing down or stalling a 10 hp motor with the spindle at 200 rpm. Guess that would be 1650 foot pounds of torque.
The offending part.
IMG_1554.jpg

The resulting damage.

IMG_1553.jpg

Broke the casting that holds the two brass nuts and pretzeled the lead screw.
Will check on the price of the parts but will probably make them, isn't that why we have tools. The only glitch is I'll have to put the compound back together and wedge it with the gib or straighten the screw to cut the new thread. My Hardinge only goes down to 11 tpi without a bunch of change gears and this one is 5 tpi and some sort of square thread.
One step forward two steps back.

Greg

IMG_1554.jpg IMG_1553.jpg
 
Another vise restoration:
This is a Wilton mechanics vise. I believe that it was made in the 60s.
This vise was one of the challenging ones because it was in rough shape, it needed new jaw faces, and I added some bushings to make the movement tighter. It will go for sale after the holidays to support my tool addiction.

MATTINGLY WILTON VISE4.jpg BLUE WILTON VISE4.jpg
 
Had me a major wreck!!!

Was truing these spools, wheel spacers for the mule, when one decided to come out of the chuck and jam, against the tool post. Theres no slowing down or stalling a 10 hp motor with the spindle at 200 rpm. Guess that would be 1650 foot pounds of torque.
The offending part.
View attachment 90116

The resulting damage.

View attachment 90117

Broke the casting that holds the two brass nuts and pretzeled the lead screw.
Will check on the price of the parts but will probably make them, isn't that why we have tools. The only glitch is I'll have to put the compound back together and wedge it with the gib or straighten the screw to cut the new thread. My Hardinge only goes down to 11 tpi without a bunch of change gears and this one is 5 tpi and some sort of square thread.
One step forward two steps back.

Greg


OUCH!!!!

That sucks.
 
Another vise restoration:
This is a Wilton mechanics vise. I believe that it was made in the 60s.
This vise was one of the challenging ones because it was in rough shape, it needed new jaw faces, and I added some bushings to make the movement tighter. It will go for sale after the holidays to support my tool addiction.
How big is that vise...and what would that sell for? Shipping would probably be a killer.
 
How big is that vise...and what would that sell for? Shipping would probably be a killer.

The jaw faces=5", jaw depth=3 7/8", jaw opening >6" and weigh around 40#.
I generally get around 200$ for a quality, restored vise around that size. New, they go for around 600$.
Shipping probably would be prohibitive. All my stuff sells through CL or word of mouth.
 
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