-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
2014 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter Smudgemo
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2014
- Messages
- 1,531
Yes, my wife has Lymphedema and this pump works in conjunction with a large "boot" that she puts on (goes up to her hip) and it sequentially pumps from foot upwards to push the lymphatic fluid back up to her torso. She usually puts in on in the evenings before going to bed for 45-minutes or so. The insurance wouldn't cover it so we had to purchase it out of pocket, but that is a whole different story.
She is a real trooper and doesn't let it slow her down at all even though I can tell it bothers her not only emotionally, but physically it is uncomfortable.
Thanks Jim, one step ahead of you. I had to order some things from McMaster Carr yesterday for another project for a client so I threw an 8-32 thumbscrew on the order. The one that was on the original knob was plastic and didn't want to waste my time re-using that one. Although after two nights of using with the new knob on it hasn't budged so more than likely don't need it, but I want it to be exactly like the one that was originally on it.
Mike.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,318
I love reading this thread, gives me all kinds of ideas and inspiration.
here's my contribution
I bought a big box of lathe bits of eBay recently and wanted to grind a contrary finishing tool. I then remembered that a) my grinder has old crap wheels (soon to be remedied) and b) the left tool rest, with the "finest" grit wheel, had a weird groove in it that didn't allow me to run the bit along the face of the wheel. Probably for grinding chisels or something. A quick rummage in the scrap box found some 1/2in alu plate with some random holes and the like that I wasn't too sad about cutting up.
Cut out the space for the wheel and the excess off with my bandsaw (wonderful tool). Then faced the cut end, turned it around and milled an angle at the bottom of the slot for clearance if I wanted acute angles on the tool rest. Finished the sides off with a nice long end mill, drilled and tapped a whole for a bolt et viola:
haven't ground a bit on it yet, but I have a inside grooving tool and micro boring bar to do next, so it'll get a lot of use!
here's my contribution
I bought a big box of lathe bits of eBay recently and wanted to grind a contrary finishing tool. I then remembered that a) my grinder has old crap wheels (soon to be remedied) and b) the left tool rest, with the "finest" grit wheel, had a weird groove in it that didn't allow me to run the bit along the face of the wheel. Probably for grinding chisels or something. A quick rummage in the scrap box found some 1/2in alu plate with some random holes and the like that I wasn't too sad about cutting up.Cut out the space for the wheel and the excess off with my bandsaw (wonderful tool). Then faced the cut end, turned it around and milled an angle at the bottom of the slot for clearance if I wanted acute angles on the tool rest. Finished the sides off with a nice long end mill, drilled and tapped a whole for a bolt et viola:
haven't ground a bit on it yet, but I have a inside grooving tool and micro boring bar to do next, so it'll get a lot of use!
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,318
I should get more organised and make up a slotted jig for holding the bit, but it'll do for now. I can't imagine that this would take you long on your mill - you'll be able to do in 1 pass what I took 10 to do
One tip about getting the right hole position - I sharpied the side of the block and found a transfer punch the size of the slot. Then I held it in all the positions I could think of using it in (fully down, level, tilted up) and scratched a line the length of the slot each time. Where they intersected is where I punched the mark.
One tip about getting the right hole position - I sharpied the side of the block and found a transfer punch the size of the slot. Then I held it in all the positions I could think of using it in (fully down, level, tilted up) and scratched a line the length of the slot each time. Where they intersected is where I punched the mark.
I should get more organised and make up a slotted jig for holding the bit, but it'll do for now. I can't imagine that this would take you long on your mill - you'll be able to do in 1 pass what I took 10 to do
One tip about getting the right hole position - I sharpied the side of the block and found a transfer punch the size of the slot. Then I held it in all the positions I could think of using it in (fully down, level, tilted up) and scratched a line the length of the slot each time. Where they intersected is where I punched the mark.
Thanks for the tip Matt, and yes, that machine will hog some metal and not even blink. I'm loving it!
I think I'm gonna cheat a little though. My Buddy Tom dropped off some 2 x 3 x 3/8 aluminum angle last weekend. I think I'm going to try to finger out a way to implement that. If not I've got a few other options for material.
What is this "slotted jig" you speak of? Plans online or in your head?
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2011
- Messages
- 2,062
I made a similar one for my 8" grinder, but with a 'horizontal' slot (about 3/16" deep) across the main table. This allows me to use a small miter to set odd angles, as well as make jigs to grind consistent angles such as used for threading bits and cutters for tangential toolholders.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,318
what Hawkeye said A slot perpendicular to the wheel that has a slide in it that the bit can be clamped to at a certain angle. That way you keep a consistent facet on the tool as you run it across the face of the grinder. Also allows for more precise angles, like Hawkeye said. For the 1/4in bits I'm grinding, it probably won't be necessary for now and there are plenty of other projects to do first!
A slot perpendicular to the wheel that has a slide in it that the bit can be clamped to at a certain angle. That way you keep a consistent facet on the tool as you run it across the face of the grinder. Also allows for more precise angles, like Hawkeye said. For the 1/4in bits I'm grinding, it probably won't be necessary for now and there are plenty of other projects to do first!
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2013
- Messages
- 1,050
I like that. I too have a "Seaport Cargo" grinder. I used a bracket I had handy to make a non-moveable rest. Now I think I'll steal your idea (when I get around to it).
I bought a 4" import tilting rotary table with three jaw chuck on ebay for cheap money. I didn't want to mount it on a plate or anything because it was already tall enough for my SB 9. So I cut a couple of pieces of 1/2" steel at 60 degrees. I tapped holes in them to bolt to the base and add a cleat on each side. The cleats are to tighten it on the saddle. I also had a spare crossfeed nut to put in the bottom.
A while ago I bought an old SB 9 for parts and that was a good idea. Better than I knew at the time. I could work on the spare saddle instead of having to run back and forth to a lathe to check the fit.
Charles
I bought a 4" import tilting rotary table with three jaw chuck on ebay for cheap money. I didn't want to mount it on a plate or anything because it was already tall enough for my SB 9. So I cut a couple of pieces of 1/2" steel at 60 degrees. I tapped holes in them to bolt to the base and add a cleat on each side. The cleats are to tighten it on the saddle. I also had a spare crossfeed nut to put in the bottom.
A while ago I bought an old SB 9 for parts and that was a good idea. Better than I knew at the time. I could work on the spare saddle instead of having to run back and forth to a lathe to check the fit.
Charles