2015 POTD Thread Archive

[jumps4]

Last night a friend who owns an Automotive machine shop asked me to make parts for a articulating arm (lamp) from a doctors office. It stops the lamp from twisting off the wires if rotated to far. I made them thicker walled to help extend their life. This thing must take a beating , the part has been replaced before.
Steve

 

[stern]

Well, no projects until I finish off the 50T press .... but did breakdown at Princess auto and buy a dry cut saw and inverter stick welder lol. Welder works great, and now I have something suitable for small gauge work. Must say I was really impressed with the dry cut saw. Cut a 1.5" steel rod in under 10 sec with very little force. Think they messed up on the sale as this was the industrial version with the fold back guard that now lists for $580.00, But I snagged it for $220.00

 

[CNC Dude]

My light saber project build continues and in this case I was working with the sword's hilt pommel. It only took me about two years to figure out how to machine this using the 4th axis:



I have documented the machining on my You Tube channel. There are actually two videos as one details the CNC machining and the second one details how to "Sprutcamize" the part.

In case you are interested in this sort of thing:

http://youtu.be/Iqxwqzx0XNw (CNC machining)

and

http://youtu.be/Ze4SMumQzy0 (Sprutcam CAMming)

 

[zmotorsports]

New Year's Eve I made a new mount for my new NOGA indicator holder that I got for Christmas.

I received two NOGA indicator holders, the larger one is for general use and I had a new Starrett 1" travel dial indicator kicking around that didn't have a base, the smaller NOGA, NF61003 will be used for my new mill spindle mount and I will not be using the magnetic base.


I started the adapter with a 30-degree taper which will reside in the Indicol spindle mount.


I then tapped 6mmx1.0 threads into the adapter and threaded a rod to be used with a knurled thumbnut.


Threading the stud.


Stud threaded.


Adapter, stud, small taper and knurled thumbnut shown.


I then moved over to the milling machine and installed the adapter into a collet block to machine the flat on the adapter and to drill/tap the 5mmx.8 hole.


Adapter completed and installed into the Indicol spindle mount bracket.


NOGA NF61003 removed from the magnetic base and threaded onto the adapter and Indicol mount.


Installed on spindle and tested.


Works perfect and is rock solid. Much more rigid than the Indicol mount ever was. This allows me to indicate on a part or in a hole without having to remove the tooling from the spindle. NOGA does manufacture a smaller arm like this one that has a 3/8" stem but you have to remove whatever tooling you are using and install either a 3/8" collet or drill chuck to accept the stem. This way there is no need to remove whatever tooling you have installed in the spindle.

I got this idea from Will, aka Darkzero, on his mill a year or so ago. I think the only thing I did differently was used a knurled thumbnut whereas Will used a recessed socket head screw with the taper.

 

[zmotorsports]

One more quick little mod I did yesterday while I had a few minutes.

I machined a couple of .150" thick washers for my vise on the horizontal bandsaw.


I also drilled and tapped a 3/8-16 hole in the moveable jaw of the vise to offset the vise when clamping short pieces of material.


Six-inch length of 3/8"-16 allthread with a nut welded on one end.


Completed.

 

[epanzella]

One more quick little mod I did yesterday while I had a few minutes.

I machined a couple of .150" thick washers for my vise on the horizontal bandsaw.


I also drilled and tapped a 3/8-16 hole in the moveable jaw of the vise to offset the vise when clamping short pieces of material.


Six-inch length of 3/8"-16 allthread with a nut welded on one end.


Completed.

The threaded stop for short pieces is a great idea. I'm always scrounging around for junk to stick in the other end of the vice.

 

[Holescreek]

I made a muzzle brake out of titanium for my latest build:

 

[darkzero]

I also drilled and tapped a 3/8-16 hole in the moveable jaw of the vise to offset the vise when clamping short pieces of material.

That's a great mod. I was going to do that to my 4x6 after I modded the vise jaws to sit close to the blade. I ended up selling it though.

On my 7x12 I just use a vise to hold very short parts. Although not really needed I made a spacer anyway to use.

I actually just made it a couple of days ago when I was making some odd size T-nuts that I needed. I've always wanted a silver bullion bar, can't afford one so I made one out of aluminum. :rofl:

 

[Mark_f]

Today I wanted to engrave the degree marks on a 4 inch rotary table I am making for my Burke mill. I put the degree wheel on my lathe and realized I hadn't finished the pointer for it so I got a scrap of aluminum angle and drilled and milled it , then mounted it on a small magnetic base to sit on the head stock housing on my lathe, BUT.... I still had no good pointer. In looking around .... I found it!! The perfect pointer. My wife has a clock on her bedroom wall with magnificent brass hands. I pulled the hour hand off and took it to my shop. Well ... the photos show how it came out.

I used a 4-40 SHCS to mount the clock hand.
Here it is on the lathe and ready to go.



NOTE: I just know one of you astute fellows is going to ask what will happen when she finds the clock hand missing. Not a problem.... she can't tell time and will never notice. :rofl: ( she always asks me what time it is)


Mark Frazier

 

[Mark_f]

I also popped the blade off my saw while cutting some stock today and used my home made tension gauge to put it back on. IT REALLY WORKS!!!


:thumbzup3:

Mark Frazier