2019 POTD Thread Archive

Spent yesterday and today checking/fixing my trailers brakes. I bought it last year, briefly tested the brakes when purchased and they seemed to work then, but should have physically checked over the system closer, as some of the brakes hadn't been working in awhile. It wasn't an actual problem, as I've got a big truck (Sierra 3500), and while the trailer is big (18' car hauler, 12k lb), I just haul lawn/snow removal equipment with it that weighs maybe 2k lbs altogether.

First side went ok, getting the brakes adjusted and re-greasing the wheel bearings, but the second side, the brakes didn't work anymore because the wiring had broken where it came out from the axle tube (the main harness ran along the first side of the trailer, and they ran wires inside the axle tubes to the other side for the brakes). This problem is not uncommon when they run the wires inside the tubes (the wires also sometimes short out when the insulation wears through from the wires bouncing around inside).

Removed the wires, and bought some paired 12 gauge wire to connect the other side up, tied to the outside of the axle tube.
Also freed up the pivot point for one of the magnet "arms", as it didn't move at all anymore.

Got the second side lubed, adjusted and tested, and reassembled.

I do have to at least get new bearings for the wheels, as even though all the bearings visually looked fine, and the wheels have minimal play, all of the washers by the castle nuts are worn from the bearing rotating and tightening the castle nuts to the end of the spindle threads doesn't result in the bearings being over-tightened. So, they are
-the wrong bearings
-very worn
-installed incorrectly or the hub is worn so the outer races can go in too far.
 
Have you ever considered a new
career in automobile manufacturing? :)

I've worked for VanHool, the belgian bus company, i've worked on assembling about hundred TX and CX busses for the US market, working 10 to 14 hours shifts every day and most of the saturdays for 300 euros a month pay was not worth it.
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I've worked for VanHool, the belgian bus company, i've worked on assembling about hundred TX and CX busses for the US market, working 10 to 14 hours shifts every day and most of the saturdays for 300 euros a month pay was not worth it.
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It sounds like my 40 years at Eaton machining truck transmission parts, loads of OT and 7 day weeks.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
It sounds like my 40 years at Eaton machining truck transmission parts, loads of OT and 7 day weeks.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've worked for VanHool, the belgian bus company, i've worked on assembling about hundred TX and CX busses for the US market, working 10 to 14 hours shifts every day and most of the saturdays for 300 euros a month pay was not worth it.
View attachment 292269

I'm retired now, but I don't think I'll ever complain about the work I did again...
 
I'm retired now, but I don't think I'll ever complain about the work I did again...

I don't mind the hard work and the long hours, the monthly pay was 320$ of which i' would spend 1/3 on fuel to get to work and the prices are the same as the rest of europe, i still work just as hard and when i get back home i still work on other projects and car stuff.
 
Today i continued welding on the little niva, i started with the top corner on the drivers fender, this hole had grey filler in it and when i sended the corner to bear steel looked all solid but after welding near it the filler burned off so i put a patch in it, then i moved to the front panel. Where there was a big patch to put on and a small one near the middle, to make this patch is used couple of methods of cutting and shaping at the end i noticed my welds started to get worse and that lead me to check my shielding gas and it was empty, so i stopped and went to exchange the bottle but the gas place was closed, so i'll have to go back tomorrow, on the way back i bought some more flat stock to make the new upper bump stops and some more antirust acid.
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This job took me two evenings but it saved me money not having to buy replacements or having to pay 140$ to the driveshaft shop to do this job. The job is refreshing both front axles, i've taken only a few pictures at the start and end because the CV joints are filled with graphite grease and is a very dirty process, so i want to keep my phone as far away as possible. I started with the drivers side axle, remove the support bearing diff flange and replace the seal, then i secured the axle shaft in my bench vice and used the slide hammer to remove the CV joints on both ends. I disassembled the CV joints one at a time and give them a good wash with gasoline after wiping every part invigory i assembled the CV joints and fill them with fresh graphite grease and assembled the diff side joint with a new rubber boot, at this pint i stopped because i did not like the rubber style cv boot i've chosen for the outside, so today i exchange them and got those teflon Cv boots, they can take higher angle and should last longer, i think worth the extra price, i also put on the protective caps for the out side boots, the inners are molded to the cv boot and the axles are so high in the frame i don't think they need extra protection. This is one of those jobs i didn't wanted to do but is so much easier now when everything is apart. When i'm this deep i'll refurbish the entire front suspension, i may leave the bushings for another day because they are still together.
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You impress me with the amount of effort and skill your putting into the little Niva.
It looks like you used zip ties to secure the boots. I tried them on a driveshaft I built for the wood processor, had no luck with them, they cept slipping off. In the end I used one of those tools for making clamps with wire, that seams to be holding.

Greg
 
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