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4X6 Bandsaw Troubles

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MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

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#1
Hello all,

I got a smoking deal on a Grizzly 4x6 bandsaw. The saw was hardly used. When I first got it home I made a couple small adjustments and it cut great.

As time permitted I started going through the saw. I have come to an issue that has me stumped and I have wasted lots of time on. The problem is with the thrust bearings. With the bearings backed off so they are just kissing the blade the blade is better then 1/16 above the deck. So It will not fully cut through stock. The bolt that stops the saw from coming down is adjusted as far as I can. Any further and the saw frame will hit the deck. When I got the saw the thrust bearings were pushing the blade bellow the deck. Making it possible to cut through stock. I know there shouldn't be that much pressure on the thrust bearing.

I have messed with everything from wheel alignment to trying to adjust the pivot arm. No luck.

Does anyone have any suggestions for me. Has anyone else run into this issue?
 

Eddyde

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#2
I think that's is good adjustment practice for a vertical bandsaw. I don't think necessary for horizontal saw, adjust the blade to where you need it. I don't see what harm it can cause?
 

Cadillac

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#3
Pictures would help see what can be adjusted. On my Kalamazoo the manual says to track the blade without any influences of guide wheels. So I would try moving the blade with guides it will only put pressure on them and they will wear out quicker.
Can you move the vise front or back to get a different angle on blade?? Pictures!
 

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

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#4
Pictures would help see what can be adjusted. On my Kalamazoo the manual says to track the blade without any influences of guide wheels. So I would try moving the blade with guides it will only put pressure on them and they will wear out quicker.
Can you move the vise front or back to get a different angle on blade?? Pictures!
I'll post pics after work. There are no adjustments that I am aware of.
 

dlane

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#6
Unless I’m missing something, the inboard bearings make the blade straight to the work after coming off the tension and drive wheels and should have on clearance , top and outboard bearings just touching blade.
The inboard bearings need to twist the blade so it enters the work straight. That’s how mine works .
 

markba633csi

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#7
I understand your issue- two questions:
1) when you adjust the stop bolt, which part of the saw frame touches the deck?
2) you said when you got the saw, the bearings were adjusted to push the blade down- how?

I know on mine the stop bolt has to be carefully adjusted or one of the inboard bearings hits the deck, and the blade just barely enters
the slot on the deck. Marginal design. But it cuts nice.
Mark
 

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

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#8
I understand your issue- two questions:
1) when you adjust the stop bolt, which part of the saw frame touches the deck?
2) you said when you got the saw, the bearings were adjusted to push the blade down- how?

I know on mine the stop bolt has to be carefully adjusted or one of the inboard bearings hits the deck, and the blade just barely enters
the slot on the deck. Marginal design. But it cuts nice.
Mark
It hits near the on off switch.

The adjustment on the bearing block moves in and out in addition to side to side and rotate . Allowing one to locate the thrust bearing just behind the blade and adjust for the blade being square to the table..
 

markba633csi

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#9
I suspect it's like mine- plenty of clearance on the guide near the driving wheel but on the other guide not so good
What about the main pivot- any adjustment there or is it fixed to the deck like the later models?
Pix will help too when you get a chance
 

dlane

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#10
I would put it back to how it was when it was cutting great. I’m a firm believer of if it’s not broke don’t fix it.
Those bearings are there to contact the blade and keep it straight
 

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

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#11
I would put it back to how it was when it was cutting great. I’m a firm believer of if it’s not broke don’t fix it.
Those bearings are there to contact the blade and keep it straight
I hear what your saying. I just can’t help myself. I get a piece of machinery and just like to go through it and set it up to the best of my ability. The manufacturer Cleary states in the manual that the thrust bearing should be set back from the blade .001-.002.
 

Billh50

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#13
That blade is tracking high right off the wheel. The wheel may need to be pulled out on the shaft a bit to make it run at the right height. I would measure how much lower the blade needs to be to cut through and then move the pulley out that much. Either that pulley was removed at one time or the shoulder the blade runs against is worn badly.
 

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

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#14
That blade is tracking high right off the wheel. The wheel may need to be pulled out on the shaft a bit to make it run at the right height. I would measure how much lower the blade needs to be to cut through and then move the pulley out that much. Either that pulley was removed at one time or the shoulder the blade runs against is worn badly.
So when you are referring to the drive wheel and top wheel?
 

markba633csi

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#16
Bill is right, the main drive wheel and main idler wheel may need to be re-spaced to get the blade closer to the table. The bearings in the guides
that push against the back edge of the blade can make a small amount of correction, but the basic plane of the blade is set by the main wheels
Mark
ps the factory may not have set the saw up correctly to begin with- not unexpected with China products- it's called customer quality control
 
Last edited:

Billh50

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#17
Yep....sounds like wheels need to be respaced to set blade just below the table so it will cut through stock. Either someone had them off at one time or they were never set properly at the factory.
 

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

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#18
Yep....sounds like wheels need to be respaced to set blade just below the table so it will cut through stock. Either someone had them off at one time or they were never set properly at the factory.
Thanks Bill. I’ve been all through this saw. I Had the idler wheel off and tried spacing that. No one else has been in it. The drive wheel can’t com out any further without losing the circlip.

I’ll keep chipping away at it.

Thanks for the help.
 

dlane

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#19
The inboard guide bearings twist the blade so it’s 90* to the table or your blade would be same angle as wheels, the thrust bearings ride on top of blade to keep blade straight and can have a little clearance .
I keep all my bearings on the blade, that’s what there for , I’ve cut miles of steel with it without a problem ,
It’s a rong fu but probably came out of same factory
 

Cadillac

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#20
D2950B0A-5208-4762-906C-2B3F5005727F.png E46FDB77-7A88-4E7E-91DF-A043CEC06864.png Here’s some pics of my manual on how to check and adjust your wheels. I don’t know if yours has the capability. Your blade should not be riding on the step of your drive or idler wheels. If they are this will help.
From the look at the pictures your definitely higher in the “crotch” of the cut. You should be at opposite attck angle.
What’s the hinge look like for the saw is it cast into the frame or bolted?
 

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

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#22
Yes I will figure it out. Just would rather be spending my time on something else. I appreciate all the help and suggestions.
 

MAKEITOUTOFWOOD

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#23
Update.

Went home after work yesterday and made some progress. I made a brass spacer for the idler and moved out the drive wheel on the shaft. Both pulleys are co-planer and it is cutting through the work piece. I will have to take the drive pulley off and turn a spacer for it.

Any further out on the drive and it would be hitting the guard. This has made blade changes a little more difficult but it works.

thanks,
Mike
 
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