I'm going to buy a PM someday, it will be a long wait so my plans are too order early.
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6 days to decide G4000 9x19 vs G0602 10x22 Both around $1500 delivered Recommendations?
- Thread starter Tolerent
- Start date
I'm going to buy a PM someday, it will be a long wait so my plans are too order early.
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I use the stops for locating work or features when doing repetitive work, never as a hard stop. The auto release should be capable repetitive releases to within a few thousandths, possibly better which is the primary reason for wanting it. I have an means of accurately stopping feed now but because it disengages the lead screw drive, I lose my sync. so I can't use it for threading.
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- Feb 13, 2017
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A lot of part numbers flying around, with little difference in specs. As much advances in details as anything. I use a G1550 (9X20) that is the great grand daddy of the G4000. The 1550 was made in Taiwan, the more recent 4000 is made in mainland China. I don't have a problem with the 3/4 inch spindle bore. When swing became an issue, an extra inch wasn't enough, I had to recommission a Craftsman 12X36, which also has a 3/4 bore. Nor is horsepower(motor size) a determining factor, both the 1550 and the Craftsman are 3/4HP. If you were doing commercial work you wouldn't be asking about this light a machine anyway.
The G0602, to me. is not that advanced of a machine. A G4000 is just as good, if not better. With the exception of size. An inch, big deal. . . Either case, there is required a change gear change for "ranging", on my 1550 I used a larger gear to get smaller threads. I don't know if the 0602 has room to take that larger gear. But how often does someone need to thread 80 TPI? I've had to do it 2 or 3 times in the 25+ years I've had the 1550. The belt changes and gear changes look to be easier on the 4000. Look to be~~~
I have made some changes to my 1550, http://www.hudsontelcom.com/9X20Gear.html, that look to be more difficult for the 0602. But again, not the sort of thing that you would necessarily be doing. But nice to have that capability for the future, should the need arise. Plus the arrangment of the "half Norton" gear box versus the internal gears on the 0602. I personally like the half Norton box better, but that's just me. I can get into it and tinker around~~~
All in all, I haven't said a d&%$ thing that can help you make your decision. About all I've done is to plug my own web site, for what little that's worth. Were I spending the money today, I probably would opt for the 4000 simply because it looks like an "old school" lathe should look like. That would have to be the limit to my meandering.
The G0602, to me. is not that advanced of a machine. A G4000 is just as good, if not better. With the exception of size. An inch, big deal. . . Either case, there is required a change gear change for "ranging", on my 1550 I used a larger gear to get smaller threads. I don't know if the 0602 has room to take that larger gear. But how often does someone need to thread 80 TPI? I've had to do it 2 or 3 times in the 25+ years I've had the 1550. The belt changes and gear changes look to be easier on the 4000. Look to be~~~
I have made some changes to my 1550, http://www.hudsontelcom.com/9X20Gear.html, that look to be more difficult for the 0602. But again, not the sort of thing that you would necessarily be doing. But nice to have that capability for the future, should the need arise. Plus the arrangment of the "half Norton" gear box versus the internal gears on the 0602. I personally like the half Norton box better, but that's just me. I can get into it and tinker around~~~
All in all, I haven't said a d&%$ thing that can help you make your decision. About all I've done is to plug my own web site, for what little that's worth. Were I spending the money today, I probably would opt for the 4000 simply because it looks like an "old school" lathe should look like. That would have to be the limit to my meandering.
Bill Hudson
Last edited:
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One of our respected forum sponsors has post an opinion in another thread that might be of interest.
I will also humbly suggest that price should not be the first, or even second criteria when it comes to selecting machine tools, like many other large purchases service after the sale is often the most important factors. Companies that choose to sponsor forums like this one, where their customers look for unbiased data, are clearly invested in this hobby and care enough about the end users of their products to maintain a presence in the community.
Ultimately this is your choice. We will be here to help in whatever ways we can but you know what they say about opinions.... Me personally, I never make purchase decisions based on "sale" offerings and 10% is pretty much just the standard "good guy" discount that anyone can get just by asking. If you want my attention start at 25%.
I once went to Guitar Center to buy a new bass guitar, after playing a bunch I had made a choice and told the salesman I would take it. He said "great, I'll go in the back and get one for you". I politely explained that I would be purchasing the one I had just played because I was comfortable with how it was built and set-up. I wasn't purchasing one from the catalog, I was buying the one I knew would work for me. That's the thing about buying a used machine tool, it might have flaws but you can inspect it and know what they are before handing your money over.
One final consideration and I'm done. When ordering a product sight unseen you are counting on the supplier to provide a "good" example of what's listed in their catalog. Some suppliers might open the crates and inspect what they received from their OEM's, others might have really good relations with their own suppliers and trust that what they are selling will be up to standards, others might be most concerned with sales volume across a wide range of different products and count on enough sales that dissatisfied customers will be a small percentage overall. Like I said before, time is your best friend here. We all want to get going as soon as possible but buying the wrong thing, or selecting a supplier with poor support can cost you both time and money....
John
I will also humbly suggest that price should not be the first, or even second criteria when it comes to selecting machine tools, like many other large purchases service after the sale is often the most important factors. Companies that choose to sponsor forums like this one, where their customers look for unbiased data, are clearly invested in this hobby and care enough about the end users of their products to maintain a presence in the community.
Ultimately this is your choice. We will be here to help in whatever ways we can but you know what they say about opinions.... Me personally, I never make purchase decisions based on "sale" offerings and 10% is pretty much just the standard "good guy" discount that anyone can get just by asking. If you want my attention start at 25%.
I once went to Guitar Center to buy a new bass guitar, after playing a bunch I had made a choice and told the salesman I would take it. He said "great, I'll go in the back and get one for you". I politely explained that I would be purchasing the one I had just played because I was comfortable with how it was built and set-up. I wasn't purchasing one from the catalog, I was buying the one I knew would work for me. That's the thing about buying a used machine tool, it might have flaws but you can inspect it and know what they are before handing your money over.
One final consideration and I'm done. When ordering a product sight unseen you are counting on the supplier to provide a "good" example of what's listed in their catalog. Some suppliers might open the crates and inspect what they received from their OEM's, others might have really good relations with their own suppliers and trust that what they are selling will be up to standards, others might be most concerned with sales volume across a wide range of different products and count on enough sales that dissatisfied customers will be a small percentage overall. Like I said before, time is your best friend here. We all want to get going as soon as possible but buying the wrong thing, or selecting a supplier with poor support can cost you both time and money....
John
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Thanks, Do you have a link handy?
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I'd rather not share it but I did also reply to a thread asking for "serious advice". Sure you can find it with a little searching.
John
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- Aug 6, 2013
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I have a G0602 and am still happy with it for my needs. The only thing I wish it had was a reverse tumbler for right hand threading, but otherwise it's a good lathe for the money. To be honest I haven't really had the need to cut reverse threads yet anyway. Luckily there are a lot of add on's mods found on various webs and forums for the G0602s including fairly simple reverse tumbler mods if you go that route.
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The setup for thread cutting is easier on the 4000. However, it only takes a few minutes for a thread cutting setup on the 602. A bigger obstacle is switching from threading to feed. While it takes just a few minutes for each switch, it can become obnoxious if you're running multiple parts and need to perform a turning operation as well as a threading operation.
I replaced the 4 way tool holders on both lathes. I used the same AXA QCTP on both the 4000 and the 602. The 4000 was limited to 3/8" tooling. The 602 can use 1/2" tooling with the right tool holder, namely a XL tool holder for 5/8" tools. In truth, when using HSS tools, there isn't any advantage to using 1/2" bits. There is more to grind away to make a useful tool and any rigidity improvement is lost on a small lathe like these. The week link on both of these lathes is the compound clamp. For HSS and brazed carbide tooling, I use 1/4" or 3/8". For smaller work, I will use 1/8" bits.
The compound setup is more versatile on the 4000 due to the use of tee slots rather than tapped holes. You have 86% more cross slide travel and 60% more tailstock and compound travel in the 602. The chuck locking mechanism is more robust on the 602 which is important if/when you are operating in reverse.
I replaced the 4 way tool holders on both lathes. I used the same AXA QCTP on both the 4000 and the 602. The 4000 was limited to 3/8" tooling. The 602 can use 1/2" tooling with the right tool holder, namely a XL tool holder for 5/8" tools. In truth, when using HSS tools, there isn't any advantage to using 1/2" bits. There is more to grind away to make a useful tool and any rigidity improvement is lost on a small lathe like these. The week link on both of these lathes is the compound clamp. For HSS and brazed carbide tooling, I use 1/4" or 3/8". For smaller work, I will use 1/8" bits.
The compound setup is more versatile on the 4000 due to the use of tee slots rather than tapped holes. You have 86% more cross slide travel and 60% more tailstock and compound travel in the 602. The chuck locking mechanism is more robust on the 602 which is important if/when you are operating in reverse.
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- Apr 8, 2013
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I originally wanted a 602 but following advice I got a G4003G. At first I felt funny buying such a large (to me) lathe while being such a green bean but I quickly grew into it. Get the biggest heaviest stiffest machine you can afford. As far as 3/8" vs 1/2" tolling it won't make a difference if you can choke up on the tool to minimize stick out. The heavier tooling will only matter if you have to stick it out further to get in deep somewhere. That said all the machines mentioned in this thread will make fine parts but the smaller ones will make them a bit slower. Good luck.
Really like my G4000. 1/2" tooling is probably too much for a 10x anyway but 3/8" tooling hasn't been an issue at all. Threading, so after learning to single point threading I now rarely do it unless I don't have the right tap/die or if the size is odd. Tap/dies are quicker when threading is a small part of a project. Diameter hasn't been an issue but yeah you won't be turning brake rotors on it but even a 12x or a 13x won't be enough for later model rotors.
For a hobby lathe it's been a good lathe for the price. But I wish I had a G4003G or ideally a PM1340GT for the robustness/size/rigity of the toolpost etc.
For a hobby lathe it's been a good lathe for the price. But I wish I had a G4003G or ideally a PM1340GT for the robustness/size/rigity of the toolpost etc.