Addictions Run Deep

silverhawk

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Within a week of having my first "machine tool" up and running, I've learned quite a bit (my wife would probably want to see me sometime).
  • Facing
  • Center-drilling
  • Turning between centers
  • How NOT to orient a tool for the best finish
  • The tool is also critical (larger tools means stable cuts)
Unfortunately, I didm't have the 4-jaw ready to try learning the technique of parting off. Instead, I used a hacksaw while the piece was turning. Silly me.

Once I had experienced facing, I decided it was time to prepare the backplate for the second chuck (I started out with a 3-jaw scroll, and wanted a 4-jaw independent). That was completed today - the chuck and back plate have been permanently joined.

While I was at it, I needed a better way to store my #2 armstrong tool holders.

I realized that a 3/4" PVC pipe coupling was about the right size, except for a small shoulder inside. That lead me to salvage a stainless steel printer rod. I grabbed one of my collets for this and an end-mill, and milled a flat end on the rod (3/8", so nothing I'd readily bore steel with), drilled a hole across it, and turned it into a simple boring bar.
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I then chucked a PVC coupling into the old 3-jaw, bored out the shoulder inside the PVC couplings, drilled a cross hole, and screwed them to my wall. They worked perfectly!
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So, I now know I can easily make a good boring bar if I ever have to. I have two chucks (self-centering/scroll 3-jaw [came with the lathe] and a 4-jaw independent), and I'm half way to having made a milling attachment table (not one of those key-way cutting "attachments", this would be a much more solid attachment). Forgive the crudeness of the attachment, it was intended to be squared up with the collets and end mills, so I wasn't trying to be completely accurate in setting it up and laying it out. I'll use side mills for the slots, and I still need to pick up some slot cutters, but at this point, it is somewhat useable.
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The next things on my list include finishing the dial - but I don't have an indexing head or a spindle stop. I'll tackle what I can, but it will take a while. The following tools are things I either need to find cheaply, or make :
  • Side mills
  • Slot Cutters
  • Indexer of some sort
  • Spindle Brake
When I get them made, I'll post new threads! Woohoo! I am addicted!
 
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If you've only had a lathe for a single week then I'm impressed - you are way ahead of the curve! Good job!
 
If you've only had a lathe for a single week then I'm impressed - you are way ahead of the curve! Good job!

I think the fact that I've been using a wood lathe for a while has given me a greater foundation. I doubt I'd have learned that quickly without having an understanding of turning. Shoot, my wood lathe (1942 Dunlap/Craftsman) also has a metal attachment on it (no lead screw, and the manual states "light metal turning", so I've avoided doing any metal work, save one rod cut and face operation to restore the South Bend). That is the real reason (and watching a lot of ThisOldTony/Kieth Rucker/Kieth Fenner/Tubalcain videos) I'm where I am at so quickly.
 
Yup, the internet and YouTube has really helped hobby machining take off. Didn't have all of that when I started so I had to bungle my way through and I'm still at it. Welcome to HM!
 
I hadn't mastered the art of the cut-off, and I'd been trying to get it mastered for some time. I finally figured out out over the weekend. I dumped the tool post cut-off for a cheap Shars AXA quick change tool post. Amazing how much difference an easy-to-set-up cutoff tool works! Started making a brass pen just to see if I can do it! I'll post pictures when I can (this is actually based on a wood-turners pen kit).
 
A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.
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I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.
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Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
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You have had a very productive week. The milling attachment looks great, and will give you a lot more options in a one machine environment. If your anything like the rest of us hopeless souls, I'm sure there will be a mill sitting not too far away before long. Cheers, Mike
 
You have had a very productive week. The milling attachment looks great, and will give you a lot more options in a one machine environment. If your anything like the rest of us hopeless souls, I'm sure there will be a mill sitting not too far away before long. Cheers, Mike

At some point. Right now I barely have enough room for the lathe, but I have permission (happy wife, happy life) to have a larger shop built. I'll have to start saving pennies and dimes to get that ready, and then I can start looking at a mill. But, yes, I need one. Do I settle for a mini one now, or do I wait until I have the room?
 
I'd concentrate on the new space, and keep an eye on Craigs list and auction sites for something that will be a keeper and large enough to meet future needs, but there's always more than one way to skin the cat. Mike
 
I'm a bit confused- Chromoly? Chrome/Moly Steels, like 4140, are what firearm parts are made of. It machines freely even with HSS tools.
Are you sure what alloy you have?
 
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