Adjusted The Cross Slide Nuts, Wedge Type Adjustment-Learned Something

Janderso

Jeff Anderson
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Hello fellow Clausing fans,
My Clausing Colchester 15, came to me in very good shape. It's a 1970 English made lathe.
Two things bothered me though. The cross slide had 180 degree free play in the handle and the saddle/cross slide manual plunger pump was not working.
I got the operators manual and parts list for it.
The cross slide nut adjustment said to, loosen the back nut, tighten the wedge in small increments, tighten up the back nut and try it out.
I started out by this method and was not making any progress. As I moved the cross slide handle in and out it was binding, I noticed the adjustment or hold down cap screw would move in and out. I backed the wedge out quite a bit, drew the back not to the front nut by bringing the cross slide toward me, then I tightened the wedge until I felt the slightest resistance, then I tightened the back cap screw.
Wow, I have .009" in play and the operation is smooth as glass.
I think it must have been out of adjustment and I had no reference to begin with.
If you have the double nut wedge type adjustment on your Clausing, this method worked for me.

The plunger for the manual oil pump for the cross slide did not work. I took it apart, replaced the o-ring and tried it again, nothing.
The oil in the apron was changed before I started working on it. There is a plug on the side of the cross slide, I took it out, pushed the plunger a couple times and suddenly I had a volume of clean oil coming out. Put the plug back in, works great.
The clutch seems to be adjusted ok, It takes 4-5 seconds to come up to 2,000 rpm with an 8" 3 jaw chuck. The manual says this is normal. Good, I did not want to adjust the clutch.
Great Lathe!
I love it
 
What luxury to have a cross feed nut adjustment! I've only owned one, on a Monarch 12" toolroom lathe equipped with one. I had to leave it behind when I sold my shop. They are a wonderful machine, this one was WW-2 vintage, it had the roller bearing taper attachment that has a range of taper about twice the typical ones, lead screw reverse with set stops on the carriage and thread stop on the cross feed and flame hardened bed and lever lock on the tailstock; the only thing about it that I did not like was that you could not use change gears for special threads.
 
This lathe shares many of the features you mention but it's 30 years younger than your Monarch.
The Monarch you had with a WW2 vintage must have been way ahead of it's time.​
 
While I don't have a Clausing I have a Colchester Lathe. Here is a page from the supplied manual (though I upgraded the photos by photographing my own lathe to get quality images). My question is. When adjusting the backlash in the cross slide nut (bottom of page) - what sort of screw driver is used? I am assuming it is a straight cut type.

I think my grub screw fell down the hole so it may be blocking the top of the adjusting screw.

Any advice appreciated.


Mal288593
 
Mine is different than yours, if I can remember to take a picture of it I will be able to explain how it works.
I have noticed the rear brass nut retaining screw loosens up. The backlash will creep up.
When it is properly adjusted it is smooth as silk and there is maybe .007".
All of a sudden I will have .050" backlash.
I'm getting to know the lathe by now, I know what to do immediately. Why does it loosen up you ask??????
I have no idea. But, I love this machine.
I don’t have a grub screw, I use a small standard/blade screw driver to adjust the wedge tension.
 
Mine is different than yours, if I can remember to take a picture of it I will be able to explain how it works.
I have noticed the rear brass nut retaining screw loosens up. The backlash will creep up.
When it is properly adjusted it is smooth as silk and there is maybe .007".
All of a sudden I will have .050" backlash.
I'm getting to know the lathe by now, I know what to do immediately. Why does it loosen up you ask??????
I have no idea. But, I love this machine.
I don’t have a grub screw, I use a small standard/blade screw driver to adjust the wedge tension.

Thank you for responding to my query.

So does that mean that you can adjust the side to side play (effectively the wedge to cross slide freeplay) but have no capacity to adjust the cross slide nut (that is nut to acme thread free play)?

I hope that makes sense.


Mal
 
Both nuts have a lock screw, If I loosen up both, turn clockwise, lock the front screw/nut then pull back-counter clockwise, they have taken the slack out. I have the wedge backed out, now I turn the wedge in until I feel the slightest resistence then lock down the back screw/nut.
Man oh man , that is a nice feel now. About .007 and makes me look good.
Does that make any sense?
I'll take some pics on Monday, my lathe is at work. I don't have a shop/home. Lost in the Cal. fires.
 
Both nuts have a lock screw, If I loosen up both, turn clockwise, lock the front screw/nut then pull back-counter clockwise, they have taken the slack out. I have the wedge backed out, now I turn the wedge in until I feel the slightest resistence then lock down the back screw/nut.
Man oh man , that is a nice feel now. About .007 and makes me look good.
Does that make any sense?
I'll take some pics on Monday, my lathe is at work. I don't have a shop/home. Lost in the Cal. fires.


Jeff

I think a picture might be worth a thousand words.

I have only had my lathe for about a year and so while I would like to reduce the backlash in the cross-slide handwheel - the lathe is still in very good order being nearly brand new (except for lots of swarf).

Thanks for taking an interest. I look forward to seeing your machine from when they made them with no corners cut on quality.


Mal288647
 
How did you add the red, "Backlash" and arrows?
Wow, that lathe is new.
 
How did you add the red, "Backlash" and arrows?
Wow, that lathe is new.

The short answer is - Photoshop - I suspect you have at least heard of that software program for editing photographs.

Mal
 
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