An 11" South Bend

Just has "MOSS" stamped on the back as well as the front. No other markings of any kind.

-Ron
 
Re: An 11

Ya I can use that. Ill make a quick change tool post / I have seen this before
Moss & ???burg Attleboro Mass tooling and die. Looks like You can put 3/8 1/2 and
cut offs in there, looks like it can "0" into dead center.
 
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Re: An 11

B34VD link=topic=1635.msg10765#msg10765 date=1303046575 said:
That's a parting blade holder. Nice set up.
Click to expand...

GK1918 link=topic=1635.msg10770#msg10770 date=1303049818 said:
Ya I can use that. Ill make a quick change tool post / I have seen this before
Moss & ???burg Attleboro Mass tooling and die. Looks like You can put 3/8 1/2 and
cut offs in there, looks like it can "0" into dead center.
Click to expand...

I was lost at "parting blade holder". ??? I know the rest is in English, but my limited knowledge doesn't include much in the way of tooling terms. I'll be looking up "parting blade holder" on the net but I can only assume that "cut offs" refers to cutting off tools? Why just those and why would you need to center them?

Update! Okay, found on the internet (ain't it great) that they are the same thing. 8) I did come across, on the South Bend Lathe Co. site http://southbendlathe.com/acc/tool_posts.aspx, similar models but the ones that had the most in common were the turning tool holders. The cut off tools that I see are narrower and used a clamp system to hold the bit wheres my mystery tool uses set screws that impinge directly on the bit. 'Course there seem to be a billion type of different bits of which I know nothing. Still didn't see any that were "adjustable" in the way this one is though.

-Ron
 
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Got some more info on my SB 11" today. I went through Grizzly's website and got a copy of the original registration card for the SB. Now I know it was originally sold to a guy in L.I. New York in 1939. How it got to Nebraska would be quite a story I'm sure.



Now I'll have to figure out just what the other info refers to.

-Ron
 
Thank you Grandtools, you certainly pegged that one. This unit appears to be complete and functional but I could easily see how that wedge could disappear.

-Ron
 
All in all I think I accidently got a pretty good deal on the lathe and tooling. I'll put it down to "instinct", so I can have warm fuzzies, instead of plain dumb luck. ;)

Now it's just a matter of learning what to do with this stuff without causing too much destruction and mayhem.

-Ron
 
Re: An 11

Very cool. Now I won't feel so "alone" with everyone talking about their 9"s or 10"s, 13"s and 16"s. ;)

That does bring up something that has been bugging me a bit guys. I know many things are "universal" but am I going to run into trouble when I go looking for certain tools and all I can find is stuff for 9", 10" or 12" models?

knudsen link=topic=1635.msg11531#msg11531 date=1303475698 said:
Just keep the leather belts on unitl you learn it well. That way if it crashes, it won't do much damage. You can use some belt dressing to help them grip.
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I am kind of comfortable using the leather belts. I was raised, by Grandfather, around belt systems on the grinders and saws in his "shop" in the loft of the barn. Matter of fact, I still have all those old belts/motors/grinding wheels. When my grandfather passed away I inherited everything in his barn instead of my uncles. Got lots of interesting old stuff some of which was my great grandfathers.

Now, what would a person replace them with if they were inclined to? Not that I plan to, but you have sparked my curiosity.

-Ron


-Ron
 
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Interesting stuff guys. I am of like mind when it comes to physically altering any of my older/classic/historic tools or machinery. I just can't bring myself to cut, drill, or weld anything to it if I can find a way to make it work the way it is.

The synthetic belts are worth considering. A person could look into some of the flat serpentine timing belts in use today but getting them onto the wheels could be a little problematic (read that as PITA). The permalinks can come apart and be re-hooked if they are what I am thinking of and would probably make an excellent backup. It's good to know that even if parts are not out there, they can be made/gotten. When it comes to things that are "universal" though, tool posts, etc. would it be best to get items designated for 12" lathes or 10" ones? I would assume you'd go with the 12" depending on exactly what you are looking at.

Okay, here is another stray thought of someone who isn't that familiar with machining and lathe work: I do wonder though, with belts that provide a better grip than leather or some other drive configuration, whether that would be best or safest. What I mean is that the system was designed with the leather belt in mind. If something were to bind up the leather belt would probably allow enough slippage to prevent even more serious damage. If a "better" grip were more desirable a person could take it to the extreme and just replace the pulley system with a chain and gears, no slippage at all. So there is the question, is using the lathe as originally designed most likely to produce the best results.

-Ron
 
No problem. :D Thanks for the info and the thoughts on belts. I still appreciate the advice on the QCTP as I have no idea what the quality is of the one I have or how long it may last. To tell the truth, it bugs me a bit that it's got MADE IN CHINA stamped in huge letters across it. I have this beautiful old American lathe and a TP that is screaming about dubious quality. :-\ Not that foreign made tools can't be of excellent quality or of serviceable utility but I'm sure you understand the feeling.

-Ron
 
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