I used 1 tablespoon of washing soda per gallon of water. Run at 2 amp continuous.
Do you have a better solution in mind? This is my first time doing this.
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Another 10F Restoration-- Toader
- Thread starter toader
- Start date
I used 1 tablespoon of washing soda per gallon of water. Run at 2 amp continuous.
Do you have a better solution in mind? This is my first time doing this.
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2012
- Messages
- 793
If you want to strip pain and de-rust then you can use caustic soda a your electrolyte instead of washing soda. Just do so in a well ventilated area and DO NOT do this on aluminium as it will produce a great deal of hydrogen and severely corrode the aluminium.
Paul.
Paul.
I'll have to check on the serial but it is a TH42
Well I have a bit of an update but a few holes in terms of pictures.
I built a new countertop out of two pieces of butcher block. I used the cast iron legs the machine came with. I really like the height.
SOME QUESTIONS THAT HAVE COME UP:
1. What accessories might I consider in the future? I have a quick change tool post that I will install with carbide tooling.
2. Can it be adapted to have a quick change gear box?
3. The drill chuck sometimes spins in the tailstock- what is the solution to this problem?
4. Where can I get some good machinable round bar? What material is good for learning? What is a good diameter to practice on? Online dealers seem expensive not to mention the shipping costs.
Here are some pictures! I am really happy with the way it is turning out!
I built a new countertop out of two pieces of butcher block. I used the cast iron legs the machine came with. I really like the height.
SOME QUESTIONS THAT HAVE COME UP:
1. What accessories might I consider in the future? I have a quick change tool post that I will install with carbide tooling.
2. Can it be adapted to have a quick change gear box?
3. The drill chuck sometimes spins in the tailstock- what is the solution to this problem?
4. Where can I get some good machinable round bar? What material is good for learning? What is a good diameter to practice on? Online dealers seem expensive not to mention the shipping costs.
Here are some pictures! I am really happy with the way it is turning out!
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2012
- Messages
- 415
Harold Hall's "Metal Lathe for Home Machinists" is a good book with great tips and projects to get your lathe up and running properly once you've got it initially working. The projects begin simply enough and move into much more involved items. The bonus being they are tools that you'll keep and use forever. His British English and metric measurements are sometimes a little difficult to follow, but it's still good stuff.
Guys say this all the time, but I'd also say to skip the carbide tooling for some HSS blanks if you've got a grinder. Tom's Techniques is a great resource and will help get you going with grinding. It really isn't tough at all, and it's a lot cheaper than carbide. Note that carbide will chip easily and brazed-on types will be useless once that happens.
Any scrap yards nearby? I buy aluminum and steel by the pound at mine. Anything aluminum up to a couple of inches would be a fine place to start as it turns easier than steel (especially steel of an unknown type, plus you can turn the chips back in for more money than steel or save it for your eventual backyard foundry.)
I wouldn't worry about a QCGB just yet. Maybe if you can retro one, but I have one on my Atlas I mostly use the slowest feed setting, and sometimes two or three of the thread cutting choices.
Best
-Ryan
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,513
Toader,
You should also acquire a copy of the Atlas Manual of Lathe Operations (AKA MOLO). They were printed on average ever 1 to 4 years from 1937 until 1988. To go with your 10F you should look for one dated 1957 or earlier and only with the Atlas logo on the front cover (not Craftsman). The reasons are that after 1957 they are mostly applicable to the 1/2" bed 12" and that Chapter 7 on Threading is different between the Atlas and Craftsman versions. Also, there were apparently 4 versions of the 1937 edition, none identifiable by the front cover (they all say Atlas). I have three versions and although I haven't compared the rest of each book page by page, Chapter 7 is different in each. Chapter 7 in what I'll call Version 4 covers the Sears Master Craftsman 12" (101.07403 and 101.07402). V3 covers the 10F. V2 has no pages in Chapter 7 (Atlas printed one and maybe two separate Threading Supplements - I have the 10F one and suspect that there must have been a Sears one). V1 is only an assumption but if it existed it covered the 10D and earlier (that used the 96T threading gears). And if the 10D version existed, there may have been an early Sears version, too. But I'm still looking for either or both. If you intend to look for a 10" QCGB, restrict your search to roughly 1948 to 1957 with an Atlas front cover.
On the QCGB question, the 10" and 12" are not interchangable. Most of the internal parts are the same but the main housing castings are different and the gear guards are different, plus some other parts. As Ryan wrote, if you don't do much threading, they aren't as useful as if you do. However, they are certainly more convenient if you want to take faster roughing cuts and then go to the finest feed for the finish cut(s).
On accessories, if you don't have a milling machine, the milling attachment is good to have, although it will only handle small parts generally. Get a steady rest and probably a follow rest. Get a carriage stop and probably a cross feed stop. Most of the rest are irreplacable if you need them and no use if you don't. For example, if you never rebuild DC motors, there is no point in having a mica undercutter. If you never make more than one of anything, there isn't much use in having collets and either of the collet attachments. I happen to have all but about two of the attachments built for the 12" but I've been slowly collecting them for the past nearly 35 years.
On the issue of HSS or carbide cutters, I've used almost nothing but carbide since I got my lathe. But it's possible I started off that way because all of the commercial machine shops that I did a lot of business with used them and I followed suit. However, you can get just as good results from either and it's certainly true that in a non-production environment, HSS is cheaper in dollar cost.
On the spinning drill chuck, all that I can suggest is to degrease the tailstock ram bore and chuck arbor. And always seat the arbor home with a "thunk". If the drill is large enough (or with 2MT drills), I also hit the tip with an oak block two or three times just to be sure.
Don't forget that you were going to send me the serial number.
Robert D.
You should also acquire a copy of the Atlas Manual of Lathe Operations (AKA MOLO). They were printed on average ever 1 to 4 years from 1937 until 1988. To go with your 10F you should look for one dated 1957 or earlier and only with the Atlas logo on the front cover (not Craftsman). The reasons are that after 1957 they are mostly applicable to the 1/2" bed 12" and that Chapter 7 on Threading is different between the Atlas and Craftsman versions. Also, there were apparently 4 versions of the 1937 edition, none identifiable by the front cover (they all say Atlas). I have three versions and although I haven't compared the rest of each book page by page, Chapter 7 is different in each. Chapter 7 in what I'll call Version 4 covers the Sears Master Craftsman 12" (101.07403 and 101.07402). V3 covers the 10F. V2 has no pages in Chapter 7 (Atlas printed one and maybe two separate Threading Supplements - I have the 10F one and suspect that there must have been a Sears one). V1 is only an assumption but if it existed it covered the 10D and earlier (that used the 96T threading gears). And if the 10D version existed, there may have been an early Sears version, too. But I'm still looking for either or both. If you intend to look for a 10" QCGB, restrict your search to roughly 1948 to 1957 with an Atlas front cover.
On the QCGB question, the 10" and 12" are not interchangable. Most of the internal parts are the same but the main housing castings are different and the gear guards are different, plus some other parts. As Ryan wrote, if you don't do much threading, they aren't as useful as if you do. However, they are certainly more convenient if you want to take faster roughing cuts and then go to the finest feed for the finish cut(s).
On accessories, if you don't have a milling machine, the milling attachment is good to have, although it will only handle small parts generally. Get a steady rest and probably a follow rest. Get a carriage stop and probably a cross feed stop. Most of the rest are irreplacable if you need them and no use if you don't. For example, if you never rebuild DC motors, there is no point in having a mica undercutter. If you never make more than one of anything, there isn't much use in having collets and either of the collet attachments. I happen to have all but about two of the attachments built for the 12" but I've been slowly collecting them for the past nearly 35 years.
On the issue of HSS or carbide cutters, I've used almost nothing but carbide since I got my lathe. But it's possible I started off that way because all of the commercial machine shops that I did a lot of business with used them and I followed suit. However, you can get just as good results from either and it's certainly true that in a non-production environment, HSS is cheaper in dollar cost.
On the spinning drill chuck, all that I can suggest is to degrease the tailstock ram bore and chuck arbor. And always seat the arbor home with a "thunk". If the drill is large enough (or with 2MT drills), I also hit the tip with an oak block two or three times just to be sure.
Don't forget that you were going to send me the serial number.
Robert D.
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Well!
Sorry I haven't been around. The last month or so of school was pretty rigorous. I dealt with final essays, AP exams, graduation, and family.
I've gotten some more time to play with the lathe. Cosmetically, it is finished. I have painted and reassembled everything.
Unfortunately, I have run into a bit of an issue. Runout. When I put pieces in the chuck there is a pretty bad wobble. I also can see that the spindle dead center is wobbling, too. I don't have an exact measurement because I'm not sure if I'm using my dial indicator correctly.
How should I go about this?
Sorry I haven't been around. The last month or so of school was pretty rigorous. I dealt with final essays, AP exams, graduation, and family.
I've gotten some more time to play with the lathe. Cosmetically, it is finished. I have painted and reassembled everything.
Unfortunately, I have run into a bit of an issue. Runout. When I put pieces in the chuck there is a pretty bad wobble. I also can see that the spindle dead center is wobbling, too. I don't have an exact measurement because I'm not sure if I'm using my dial indicator correctly.
How should I go about this?