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Another carriage stop design

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Dranreb

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#1
Just my take on a carriage stop for flat ways, I found with my previous attempt at making one, that a slight knock was all it took to dislodge it slightly.

I think this was due to the stick out needed to mount the DTI and stop in the same piece, unlike the Atlas design which is very close to the front of the ways, and has double bolts for extra grip.

Having nothing positive to clamp on as per a V way bed, I made mine to reach across and positively locate across the ways. The only downside is that it it doesn't pass by the side of the headstock, this hasn't been a problem for me so far.

The clamping piece is held snug against the body by the screw shank, it's depth enables it to be opened wide enough to allow fiddle free placing onto the ways.

DSCF7897.JPG

The eagle eyed picture clickers amongst you will have noticed the glued on shim, this of course is a sacrificial way wear strip.....that's my story and anyway I'm sticking to it... grin.gif

DSCF7899.JPG

I milled this on my lathe using TCT wood router bits, held in the three jaw, just working with what I've got..

DSCF7900.JPG

The positive stop screw and nut are work in progress as knurling is not yet one of my skills..

DSCF7901.JPG

Thanks to all who have posted your designs on here previous, you will probably spot ideas from various others in mine..

Bernard

DSCF7897.JPG DSCF7899.JPG DSCF7900.JPG DSCF7901.JPG grin.gif
 
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stevecmo

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#2
Bernard,

Very nice design and documentation. And I love the replaceable wear strip in the design! :whistle:

Steve
 

PurpLev

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#3
looks good!
 

Daver

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#4
Love the angle on the front for dial display.. Stealing that when I build mine!
 

Dranreb

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#5
Thanks chaps, looking at those pics, it seemed to me that the Chinese looks of it would be offensive to the arty designers of the curvaceous Atlas products of old, so I just nipped out and put that right, I had the cutter so it would have been rude not to..

DSCF7905.JPG

Added period runs in the paint too... smiley_smug.gif

Bernard

DSCF7905.JPG smiley_smug.gif
 
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Mr.Chips

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#6
Newbie here. I really like your design especially the angled indicator. I would like to build one however it would take two or threes before I got it right, could you possible post a drawing, for those of with little to no skills is plagiarizing from photos.
Thanks
Mr. chips
 
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cbtrek

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#7
Very nice design!
 

Dranreb

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#8
Newbie here. I really like your design especially the angled indicator. I would like to build one however it would take two or threes before I got it right, could you possible post a drawing, for those of with little to no skills is plagiarizing from photos.
Thanks
Mr. chips
Thanks for the compliment Mr chips, glad you like it, like you I am a novice at this stuff, I do not do drawings as I find it easier to just start with the metal and sneak up on the shape, sometimes I sneak right past....hence the shim!

Because of this I am not good at making a matched pair or a run of similar parts yet..

However as you have asked, I will have a go at reverse engineering a drawing using SketchUp, this may take some time....:scared:

Bernard
 

Dranreb

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#9
For those who like me are new to all this I just thought I'd share the method I use for preparing an oblong or cylindrical lump of battered scrap alloy for this type of job, as long as your chuck is good, this will be accurate enough for the non hyper critical dimensions.

1, Mount it roughly central in your four jaw, long side across the face of the chuck, tap it tight against the chuck and turn off the other side, mark this new face with a felt tip pen.

2, Put the marked face against the chuck face, tap it home and turn off another new face.

3, Next put it in the chuck gripped by tightening two jaws on the new faces, tighten these two jaws and tap home before tightening the other jaws, pieces of paper will prevent the jaws marking the ally, turn off another face.

4, Repeat 3 not forgetting the tapping tight bit.

5, Now put the piece lengthways in the chuck and turn off both ends square, there is no need to centralise the piece in the chuck at any stage of the process, unless you feel like the practice..

You will now have a nice clean piece to work with, use the marked face to set out from.
 
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thomas s

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#10
Great job on the carrige stop I think I will give it a try
 

Dranreb

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#11
Thanks thomas,

I forgot to mention it, but I had problems cutting the thread for the positive stop, as all the taps I have are too short to reach right through, hence the counter bore and 'nose' on the nut..

Bernard
 

raross61

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#12
Re: Another carriage stop design Grizzly G4003G

Here is my shop made carriage stop for my Grizzly G4003G.

sunday 021.jpg mill 034.jpg mill 032.jpg mill 033.jpg
 

Charley Davidson

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#13
Re: Another carriage stop design Grizzly G4003G

Here is my shop made carriage stop for my Grizzly G4003G.
Is that Starrett mic shaft left or right handed or reverse or normal? I have one I wanted to use on my lathe stop but it would read backwards.

Nice job on both of you guys stops.
 

raross61

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#14
Re: Another carriage stop design Grizzly G4003G

Is that Starrett mic shaft left or right handed or reverse or normal? I have one I wanted to use on my lathe stop but it would read backwards.

Nice job on both of you guys stops.

Yes it's just a standard micrometer body, but it's pretty easy to substract the cut depth, the way it is all built it can be placed on the left or rh side, by turning the mic and indicator around to the other side! Hope this helps! Bob in Oregon
 

kd4gij

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#15
A depth mic would be good for this.
 

GoMopar440

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#16
I'd be concerned about using a depth mic in this application. They aren't meant to take any kind of heavy load against the shaft, just touch off the measuring surface lightly to check it. The gearing advantage of the handwheel driving the carriage along the rack would reduce your feel for how much pressure you would be putting against the depth mic. That's not something I'd be comfortable doing with how fragile the fine threads are in the mic body.

If you insisted on using a depth mic, then I'd at least make a sliding sleeve that would wrap the body of the mic and allow it to slip in the stop if the carriage hit it with too much force. Still sounds like a less than desirable setup though. On the combo stop pictured above (which looks like a nice very piece BTW) I would use a solid rod with a quick adjust locking screw instead.
 

raross61

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#17
All I can say on this issue, is with the dial indicator, when using the micrometer stop, you watch the dial indicator, and as it is aproaching the zero point, you disconnect the feed a little before the zero point, and hand feed it againist the micrometer stop. I have had zero problems with the stop, and my hourmeter reads 264 hours, I made it probably 10 hours after I recieved the lathe, so if I figure using it even 1/3 of the time I have used it 70+ hours with NO problem. I also need to second the post earlier on how amazing this lathe is! I would be to shy to show you the pictures, I have over the last 1 1/2 year, on the large turning I have done on this machine! A whole bunch of turning for work on 8" bushing's used for the heavy eq. company I work for!

Bob in Oregon
 

epanzella

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#18
Re: Another carriage stop design Grizzly G4003G

Here is my shop made carriage stop for my Grizzly G4003G.
That's good lookin' stop. I have a G4003G also and was hesitant to make a carriage stop for fear of the carriage bashing into it. I made a stop on my Logan but the apron had a clutch that just slipped when it reached the stop. Does my G4003G have a clutch? I didn't see anything that looks like it could slip in the owners manual. Do you just hand feed when near the stop?
Ed P
 

kd4gij

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#19
Re: Another carriage stop design Grizzly G4003G

That's good lookin' stop. I have a G4003G also and was hesitant to make a carriage stop for fear of the carriage bashing into it. I made a stop on my Logan but the apron had a clutch that just slipped when it reached the stop. Does my G4003G have a clutch? I didn't see anything that looks like it could slip in the owners manual. Do you just hand feed when near the stop?
Ed P

Yes that is why the indacaor is used Disingage then feed by hand to stop.
 

jdedmon91

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#20
Re: Another carriage stop design Grizzly G4003G


That's good lookin' stop. I have a G4003G also and was hesitant to make a carriage stop for fear of the carriage bashing into it. I made a stop on my Logan but the apron had a clutch that just slipped when it reached the stop. Does my G4003G have a clutch? I didn't see anything that looks like it could slip in the owners manual. Do you just hand feed when near the stop?
Ed P
On my G00750g I just kick the power feed out by eye and hand feed it in. One of the first things I made.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jdedmon91

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#21
This is my stop with the indicator mounted. 99% of the time I use it without the indicator



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