Another Tool & Cutter Grinder

Mark
My understanding of the grind method might be wrong but that was the way back then. My thoughts are placing the stylus about .100 from the point of touch off, that way when turned it will pull the end mill into the wheel and to the end of the flute which would lift the cutter from the grinding wheel. Also as you turn the endmill clock wise it holds it down on the stylus and the wheel. Adjusting the stylus down to bring it closer and cut more till all flutes are the same. Unless you have a left hand spiral.
I'm no machinist so just my thoughts
Nelson Collar

Mark also on the thought of the wheel holder for my motor, I'm kind of leaning toward the small ER chuck and mounting it to the spindle. One other concern I have is the 3450 rpm and stuck with that. Some of my wheel have better than 10,000 rpm rating and I don't know how great that would be in use.
Just my marbles rattling.
 
NEL957 said:
Mark
My understanding of the grind method might be wrong but that was the way back then. My thoughts are placing the stylus about .100 from the point of touch off, that way when turned it will pull the end mill into the wheel and to the end of the flute which would lift the cutter from the grinding wheel. Also as you turn the endmill clock wise it holds it down on the stylus and the wheel. Adjusting the stylus down to bring it closer and cut more till all flutes are the same. Unless you have a left hand spiral.
I'm no machinist so just my thoughts
Nelson Collar

Mark also on the thought of the wheel holder for my motor, I'm kind of leaning toward the small ER chuck and mounting it to the spindle. One other concern I have is the 3450 rpm and stuck with that. Some of my wheel have better than 10,000 rpm rating and I don't know how great that would be in use.
Just my marbles rattling.
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Your cutter grinder does not need to run over 3450 rpm.... 5000 rpm max. That rating on your wheel doesn't matter unles you are exceeding it.

As for your adapter..... The ER collet is ok but you may want to shorten the motor shaft a little before putting the adapter on.
 
I would need a shorter shaft and balance would be the biggest thing. The further something is out on the shaft it multiplies the balance problem. The idea of direct drive is a big advantage but to change a wheel means redressing it, which means stone get smaller every time it is removed. That is the reason for something out there that is quick and easy to change and keep alignment.
 
NEL957 said:
I would need a shorter shaft and balance would be the biggest thing. The further something is out on the shaft it multiplies the balance problem. The idea of direct drive is a big advantage but to change a wheel means redressing it, which means stone get smaller every time it is removed. That is the reason for something out there that is quick and easy to change and keep alignment.
Click to expand...
You have a point on changing the wheel and that can be a problem. I can sharpen drills and end mills with the same wheel, but other cutters may require different wheels. So...... I am glad you brought that topic up. For that reason, I may have to consider making a different adapter for my grinder. BUT, it will be after it is built and running. it is only two set screws to remove the adapter and takes less than a minute. Constantly truing wheels is not a good thought. The machines I patterned most of my ideas after use one wheel. The really expensive $10,000 Cutter Master Professional has two wheels and they are diamond wheels. Diamond wheels do NOT get dressed or trued. They FIT! repeatedly on a precision arbor. This gives me an idea. A precision arbor on the motor with EXTREMELY close fitting and accurate sub- arbors, if you will, that have a trued wheel on them. Then a wheel will not need trued every time it is changed. Simply install the wheel desired which already was trued on the adapter it stays on. To accomplish this , I will make a precision..... preferably ground motor arbor that runs true to a max run out of .0002". Then each wheel will have a precision adapter it is mounted on that will fit on the motor arbor. If the fit is held to a couple tenths, there will be no problem. .0002" is not that difficult to hold. I spent years working in a shop where .0002 was a lot. From what I see on commercial units using expensive precision diamond wheels, They mount on a ground arbor with a parallel face and precision step for the wheel and are held in place by three screws 120 degrees apart holding a precision washer against the wheel. :eek: Those are a lot of precision's ,......but doable. Now , I don't intend to be buying any of those $300 grinding wheels :(, but if I make the same setup....... my cheap stones are going to be as precision as possible :grin:.

The other part of this is BALANCE. Those $300 diamond wheels do NOT vibrate. They are well balanced. My cheap stones are not balanced. Some run pretty good, but if they vibrate, I usually give them away and try another until I get a good one. That being said, I have found that a $5 stone of the auction site usually runs like crap and is only good for grinding bolts to shorten or something like that. To get a decent stone wheel, you have to pay a good bit more , in the $50 to $75 range and from a reputable vendor specializing in grinding products. They run truer out of the box and don't vibrate.
 
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I have been toying with the idea of accurately interchangeable wheels since I built the Bonelle. I just haven't got to it, but it looks like it may be a good idea as the quality of this new grinder makes my Bonelle look like cheap junk......... AND IT COST ME LESS TO MAKE!!!
 
Mark
Do not throw too big a stone at the Bonnelle, you did a beautiful job on it. Just because it is inferior you now see better things to do.
Nelson
 
NEL957 said:
Mark
Do not throw too big a stone at the Bonnelle, you did a beautiful job on it. Just because it is inferior you now see better things to do.
Nelson
Click to expand...
Don't get me wrong........the Bonelle is a good machine ,but it won't compare to this one.
 
Mark
I must have been too strong. Anything you build is the best you can do and we would not expect anything less. The comment like cheap junk is what I was talking about, you are better.:idea:
Nelson
 
NEL957 said:
Mark
I must have been too strong. Anything you build is the best you can do and we would not expect anything less. The comment like cheap junk is what I was talking about, you are better.:idea:
Nelson
Click to expand...
it's all good ,Nelson. I was a little harsh on the Bonelle.

I have gathered a wealth of end mill grinding information and use of the air bearing. I have downloaded a couple manuals for similar equipment and am picking out the info that applies. My intention is to make up an operation manual for the new machine so it is ready about the same time as the machine. I will make my plans and the complete build article along with any manual I have done available to anyone who wishes the info, when the build is complete.

On another note, Cutter Master has a series of videos on You tube about how to set up their grinders and use them. I watched all 9 or 10 of them and they are worth watching.
 
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