ARC-170's Craftsman 101.07403 lathe restoration thread

Jeff,

I hate to say this, but RTFM. Both the exploded view parts list and the Atlas Technical Bulletin on the 10" headstock show a Woodruff key in the spindle to keep the gear from turning on the spindle. Plus, if you have the collar off, you should be able to see that the gear has a keyway either cast or broached in it. Make an aluminum or brass protector for the left end of the spindle by turning a piece of solid round of 1-1/4" or larger diameter down to 3/4" by about 1/2". Slide that into the left end of the spindle and hit it with a dead blow hammer or a steel hammer and a piece of 2 by 4.

Or make a receiver for the right side of the headstock out of structural tubing with an ID just larger than the dust cover. Make a thrust shoulder washer of 1/2" steel plate with about a 25/32" ID and an OD about the same diameter as the tubing. Run a length of 3/4" all thread through the shoulder washer, receiver, and spindle and put a flat washer and long nut on both ends. Loosen the set screw in the bull gear, and tighten the nuts.
 
Jeff,

I hate to say this, but RTFM. Both the exploded view parts list and the Atlas Technical Bulletin on the 10" headstock show a Woodruff key in the spindle to keep the gear from turning on the spindle. Plus, if you have the collar off, you should be able to see that the gear has a keyway either cast or broached in it. Make an aluminum or brass protector for the left end of the spindle by turning a piece of solid round of 1-1/4" or larger diameter down to 3/4" by about 1/2". Slide that into the left end of the spindle and hit it with a dead blow hammer or a steel hammer and a piece of 2 by 4.

Or make a receiver for the right side of the headstock out of structural tubing with an ID just larger than the dust cover. Make a thrust shoulder washer of 1/2" steel plate with about a 25/32" ID and an OD about the same diameter as the tubing. Run a length of 3/4" all thread through the shoulder washer, receiver, and spindle and put a flat washer and long nut on both ends. Loosen the set screw in the bull gear, and tighten the nuts.

I was tapping the spindle gear to the left (per the manual) with a piece of wood and it wasn't budging. The manual states it will slide off (ha!). I'm an idiot for not thinking about the woodruff key. Duh. I've loosened all the other set screws.
I even hit the spindle shaft to the right (I used wood over the metal) and got no movement. Am I not hitting it hard enough? I don't want to damage anything, but maybe I'm being too gentle.

I'm not sure I quite understand the other method you describe. Do you have a picture? However, it sounds like you are telling me I should make a device for allowing the spindle assy to "drop" onto when I dislodge it from the headstock? Or, the spindle shaft moves right when hit into this receiver? The manual states to put a broomstick handle in the spindle. Sounds like your telling me to do something fancier.
Thanks for the "direct" feedback. I appreciate the honesty.
 
12x24 is about right for the working length. I don't know if i get a full 12" swing, but it is close. I have attached a pic. I have a number of issues, including a complete lack of change gears-- i have two and two small spur gears-- just enough to have power feed/cross feed. I was asked to make a ring this afternoon from aluminium, so i included that pic too!
Nice! What did you make it for?
Which QCTP do you have?
I see you have clamped your lathe to the table. How secure is that?
My lathe is this aqua green color I've not seen anywhere else. Yours appears to be gray. Do you know when yours was made?
 
21. So I went out to the garage and hit the spindle harder with a dead blow hammer and some wood. I seemed to have knocked something loose because it now turns freely, but has about 0.04" of axial play and one of the parts has moved left (I hit to the right).288044
A is the shaft. I hit this to the right.
B is the gear. It did not budge much, maybe a few thousands of an inch. I hit it hard about 20 times.
C is a spacer that has somehow moved to the left. It was inside part D before I hit the spindle. It appears to have moved about 0.04" or so. I'm not sure. I thought those ridges were threads but they appear to just be ridges.
I sprayed more penetrating oil between B and C. I'm hoping to get the gear loose.
I'm thinking I'm missing something. I re-read the manual and I think I'm doing it right but this isn't budging.
 
I cannot imagine why the gear "B" should be so firmly stuck. I think that at this point I would resort to a gear puller. Not atwo or three hook type but the type with the split plate that has two bolts connecting the plate halves. Use a grinder with a stone about the same diameter as the Spacer "C". Make the hole in the center of the split plates large enough that it will fully close around the Spacer. Clamp it around the spacer and then assemble the rest of the puller to it. Tighten the forcing screw against the shoulder disc whose pilot just fits into the hole through the spindle. Re-tighten and hit it again. Be aware that you can't pull the gear very far before the split plate will hit the key. If the gear is still stuck at that point, you will have to disassemble the puller and grind a slot in the plate halves to clear the key.

You should be able to rent most of the puller parts but you will have to buy the split plate because they won't want it back after you modify it to fit around the spacer.
 
I thought of a puller, but I thought the gear teeth would get chipped if I used a puller. I didn't know they had another type. Good to know, thanks!

Is this the type of puller you're talking about:
288183
On this silver one I would modify the rectangles to fully surround the gear, correct? It would look like two letter C's facing each other, right?
288184
This blue one would need to have the inner diameter of the C shape be small enough to fit around the gear, correct? Seems like the rods would pull out on this design; are they welded/press fit/screwed in?

I also thought of fabricating one like this:
288185
I would need to make parts A (aluminum block with threaded holes), B (slightly larger dia than spindle; pushes against spindle on lathe as screw is turned against it), and C (hole fits around over spacer, but not gear). I'd use bolts, nuts and threaded stock I could get at the store for the rest.

I didn't see too many of this type; the vast majority are the 2 and 3 prong ones. I'll check around and see if I can rent one.
 
Almost. Except that the first and third tapped holes in the third one are slots like in your first one and the two studs are bolts or maybe all-thread with nuts on one end. And the split disk would look like this except that you would grind the two arcs where the two halves join into two semi-circles.288186
 
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So this is what I would get or rent:
$48 (less 20%) to buy. I'll check my FLAPS this week on the way home from work.

I usually try to get nicer, made-in-the-USA tools, but if I'm going to break or "modify" them, HF is a good place.

I can get just the disc you show for $28 (less 20%) and use it on anything I rent, too.

Yes, I see my mistakes in the one I drew. The threaded rods need to be smooth so they slide. Duh. And the disc I drew would probably fail when pulled with much force. I thought maybe the washers would help support it, but not with the force needed to pull this off. I really need to stop thinking so late in the day!
 
#21. Well, the left gear came off very easily. I used a puller and cranked it by hand. There seems to be some sticky varnish (it's almost like glue) on the shaft that made it difficult to remove.
However, I cannot get the spindle to budge. All the set screws are out. I soaked it in penetrating oil. I hit it with a dead blow hammer hard. Nothin'. Here are some images. Anyone see anything that would cause this to stay stuck?

IMG_20190314_194351636.jpg

IMG_20190314_194327358.jpg

IMG_20190314_194345285.jpg
 
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