Are These Babbitt Bearings Still Good?

[Rannunzi]

I've got a new to me Atlas Craftsman 12x36 from the 30s. I was partially taking apart the headstock to do some cleaning and also to inspect the babbitt bearings. Can anyone with more experience tell me if these bearings are still good to continue using or if I need to pour new ones? Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[woodchucker]

its not the look so much as the wear. Are they sloppy? A score or two or three won't hurt the bearing. They are soft so they don't destroy the shaft from scoring. They are destroyed from being run dry though. Hard to tell from the picture. Do you have much play?

on a second and third look, they don't look too bad, lots of meat left on them, they are marked up.. again Play? is there an oiling hole , or wicks?

 

[Rannunzi]

its not the look so much as the wear. Are they sloppy? A score or two or three won't hurt the bearing. They are soft so they don't destroy the shaft from scoring. They are destroyed from being run dry though. Hard to tell from the picture. Do you have much play?

on a second and third look, they don't look too bad, lots of meat left on them, they are marked up.. again Play? is there an oiling hole , or wicks?

No play as far as I can tell. There is an oil cup with a wick and I keep it oiled. Although after reassembly the back bearing seemed too tight and the spindle wouldn't free wheel if it was tightened all the way down. Strange given that it was super tight to begin with. I think a previous owner might have removed shims from it before it'd actually worn down enough, so I might have to add some shims back there. Thanks for the help though!

 

[woodchucker]

I hope you oiled it before you put them back on. dry they may not turn as freely as you'd expect.
So do the rod test.
while reassembled, stick a rod through and see if either side of the spindle lifts.
ALSO try forward to back.
if you are tight, you may wish to shim it.
See if you can find the spec for how much play is proper.

 

[Rannunzi]

I hope you oiled it before you put them back on. dry they may not turn as freely as you'd expect.
So do the rod test.
while reassembled, stick a rod through and see if either side of the spindle lifts.
ALSO try forward to back.
if you are tight, you may wish to shim it.
See if you can find the spec for how much play is proper.

Can you explain a little more what you mean by the rod test? Stick a rod through where? Thanks.

 

[woodchucker]

you stick a rod through the spindle bore.. you use that to find your play.

you pull first on one end then on the other.
it's more of a test than just grabing the spindle itself.

 

[Rannunzi]

you stick a rod through the spindle bore.. you use that to find your play.

you pull first on one end then on the other.
it's more of a test than just grabing the spindle itself.

Ah I see. Thanks I'll give that a try tomorrow.

 

[woodchucker]

put an indicator on the end you are testing to see how much play you have.
find in one of the manuals for your lathed what is the min-max.

 

[brino]

I have no experience with Babbitt.

But, to be clear, this test is with the lathe power off!

Put a rod into the chuck to act as a lever, put an indicator on the outer surface of the rod and lift or push/pull the rod.
All you want to do is assess the static slop, or play, in the system.

Some folks even use a 2 x 4 between the rod and the lathe ways to apply lift.
Don't over do it you do NOT want to break anything, but cutting forces can really add up.

-brino

 

[woodchucker]

I have no experience with Babbitt.

But, to be clear, this test is with the lathe power off!

Put a rod into the chuck to act as a lever, put an indicator on the outer surface of the rod and lift or push/pull the rod.
All you want to do is assess the static slop, or play, in the system.

Some folks even use a 2 x 4 between the rod and the lathe ways to apply lift.
Don't over do it you do NOT want to break anything, but cutting forces can really add up.

-brino

You indicate the spindle not the rod.
Yes never over do it.