Atlas 618 ^" Lathe - just got and need some help!

[JRT]

Hi guys, I just purchased this little lathe and it needs some love for sure. It came with a few bits of tooling and such and is missing a few pieces but it is useable as is, I just need to decide if i'm going to do a full restoration or not. The bearings and ways seem totally fine and all the gears still look pretty good, as do the extras that came with it.

Anyways, as I'm brand new to lathes, please excuse me if I use the incorrect terminology, ha ha.

I turned the compound slide handle until it came out of the brass barrel nut at the end. I cant seem to get it back in now. Any ideas?

Here are a few pictures so you can all see this little thing. Pretty sure that the estate I purchased it from was the original owner based on all the things that came with it.

Thanks, -John

 

[mattthemuppet2]

very cool and welcome to the club - I'm sitting down for a break from using mine this evening. They're very capable lathes within their work envelope. That's an interesting lever action tail stock too, never seen one like that before. It'll sure help fix the miserable amount of travel it has as stock (1 1/2" )

To get the cross slide screw engaged again, push the cross slide towards you by the cover at the end while slowly turning the handle anti-clockwise. Wait until you feel a little clunk and then turn it clockwise to screw it back on. Oil the cross slide ways before doing that to help it slide more easily. If that doesn't work, the screw that holds that cover on (top of cross slide, on the other side of the tool post) screws into the bronze nut. Take out the screw, slide the cross slide towards you and then screw the nut on. Move the cross slide back so that the screw hole covers the nut, then put the cover back in place and replace the screw.

I'd just give it a good cleaning, oil the beejasus out of everything and use it for a while.

 

[JRT]

very cool and welcome to the club - I'm sitting down for a break from using mine this evening. They're very capable lathes within their work envelope. That's an interesting lever action tail stock too, never seen one like that before. It'll sure help fix the miserable amount of travel it has as stock (1 1/2" )

To get the cross slide screw engaged again, push the cross slide towards you by the cover at the end while slowly turning the handle anti-clockwise. Wait until you feel a little clunk and then turn it clockwise to screw it back on. Oil the cross slide ways before doing that to help it slide more easily. If that doesn't work, the screw that holds that cover on (top of cross slide, on the other side of the tool post) screws into the bronze nut. Take out the screw, slide the cross slide towards you and then screw the nut on. Move the cross slide back so that the screw hole covers the nut, then put the cover back in place and replace the screw.

I'd just give it a good cleaning, oil the beejasus out of everything and use it for a while.

I just took it apart last night and there was a dried chunk of grease in the way. It works great now. Just need to source a new, short belt for it now and do some cleaning. Thanks!

 

[C-Bag]

I just took it apart last night and there was a dried chunk of grease in the way. It works great now. Just need to source a new, short belt for it now and do some cleaning. Thanks!

First thing you need is a cork or cap or something on the front headstock Oiler. Hopefully it hasn’t gotten any schmootz down in there. First thing I look for is evidence of oil on the ways and everything is very dry looking. I’d also get a bottle of Vactra way oil and maybe some spindle oil and some grease for all the gears and lead screws. Clean and dry is not good for machine tools.

 

[JRT]

First thing you need is a cork or cap or something on the front headstock Oiler. Hopefully it hasn’t gotten any schmootz down in there. First thing I look for is evidence of oil on the ways and everything is very dry looking. I’d also get a bottle of Vactra way oil and maybe some spindle oil and some grease for all the gears and lead screws. Clean and dry is not good for machine tools.

Yes, you're correct on all accounts. I ordered some Timken hi temp grease. Going to get some Vactra oil as soon as I can find it in a smaller quantity as well as some quality 20WT oil. Good call on the cork. I was going to see if that whole thing is replaceable but I don't think it is. The cork will have to do I think. Thanks.

 

[JRT]

Anyone know how to get the drill chuck in the tail stock out?

 

[mattthemuppet2]

it should release by winding it back into the tail stock. If it doesn't then wind the barrel all the way out and remove it, up end the drill chuck and squirt some penetrant down the threaded hole of the tail stock barrel. It's probably just stuck in there by old grot.

As for the bearings, use hydraulic oil or similar. It's a constant loss system. Squirt oil in the top and it will flush old oil (and crap, hopefully) out the sides of the bearing shields to dribble down under the headstock. I have a piece of kitchen towel folded up under there which I usually replace when I clean out the chip pan. If you use grease, any dirt or chips that get past those shield will get trapped in the grease, plus the only way you'll be able to change the grease would be by disassembling the spindle. Even if you only do it every 6 months or so, that would get old pretty quickly.

 

[JRT]

it should release by winding it back into the tail stock. If it doesn't then wind the barrel all the way out and remove it, up end the drill chuck and squirt some penetrant down the threaded hole of the tail stock barrel. It's probably just stuck in there by old grot.

As for the bearings, use hydraulic oil or similar. It's a constant loss system. Squirt oil in the top and it will flush old oil (and crap, hopefully) out the sides of the bearing shields to dribble down under the headstock. I have a piece of kitchen towel folded up under there which I usually replace when I clean out the chip pan. If you use grease, any dirt or chips that get past those shield will get trapped in the grease, plus the only way you'll be able to change the grease would be by disassembling the spindle. Even if you only do it every 6 months or so, that would get old pretty quickly.

That's great advice that I hadn't thought of. The Timken grease will get used on whatever needs grease. I ordered some Vactra oil for the ways last night and I'll probably just order the " Mobile Premium Hydraulic Oil, SAE Grade 20, ISO Viscosity Grade 68, Viscosity SUS @ 100 Degrees " from Amazon in a bit. I should be all set on oils & grease at that point.

Side question, can I use these same oils on my Southbend drill press? I imagine the hydraulic oil would be good for all the high RPM bits where I have been using a little 40wt here and there.

 

[JRT]

As for turning the tail stock all the way in, mine was modified by the Engineer that owned it with a throw handle to give it a little extra travel (2.25" now). I'll try yanking it back in all the way and see if that works, If not, I'll try the other method you mentioned. I's there a MT1 tool of some sort that can just pop it off that anyone is aware of? Thanks.

 

[francist]

Not sure what that “MT 1 tool” would look like but sometimes an appropriately sized open-end wrench can slip over the neck of the taper to give a more solid shoulder to back against. Looking at your photo again I’m going to guess that whole tail stock quill may be a replacement? Do you see any graduations on the side of it — I can’t see from the photo. If no markings for inches I’d say it’s all new in which case I’d bet that removing the cap screw for the handle would allow it to slide right out the front.

Depending on what you want to with the machine that lever tail stock can be a real friend or a great inconvenience for normal turning operations. Might want to keep your eye open for another tailstock just in case.

-frank