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- Aug 17, 2015
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Bandsaw motor rebuild help please
- Thread starter Chris H
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2015
- Messages
- 46
To answer some questions:
No, it has not run since I've had it.
Everything mechanically turns fine. The band saw blade and wheels, the pulley on the "blade" side. the armature when it was assembled. Nothing was binding.
There is no "hum" when the switch was on. It was a simple wall mount type light switch, and tested as good.
The red wire with the spade connector that is loose was connected; I took it off to take strain off the wire to the windings.
There is no readable sticker or plate on the motor. The one I took was on the saw itself (I know it's not the same, but it's the best I have and pixels are cheap). The motor does not seem to be "wrong" for the saw, but I have no idea if it is original or not. I believe it is, though.
No, it has not run since I've had it.
Everything mechanically turns fine. The band saw blade and wheels, the pulley on the "blade" side. the armature when it was assembled. Nothing was binding.
There is no "hum" when the switch was on. It was a simple wall mount type light switch, and tested as good.
The red wire with the spade connector that is loose was connected; I took it off to take strain off the wire to the windings.
There is no readable sticker or plate on the motor. The one I took was on the saw itself (I know it's not the same, but it's the best I have and pixels are cheap). The motor does not seem to be "wrong" for the saw, but I have no idea if it is original or not. I believe it is, though.
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2015
- Messages
- 46
Yeah, i'm not hung up on having to fix it. It's more that I don't want to waste it if it is simple, and I'm not experienced enough to diagnose it. I have time and figured I'd give it a shot. If it was hanging up an important project I'd take another route.
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2013
- Messages
- 2,496
Chris,
Even a "bad" motor would hum or give you some indication that it is drawing current. Make sure there is power to the
motor by putting an AC voltmeter or even a light bulb across the input wires. It is likely a connection that has failed
would be my inclination. Motor windings do not normally go open. Another way would be to put an ohm meter
across the motor input and check to see that it is not an open circuit. If you don't have any test equipment, maybe
you have a friend that could help you. Anyone with a simple volt-ohm meter could help you out on this. It could easily be the
power cord plug end or the cord... Try a different cord to eliminate that possibility. I have to give you credit for your
perseverance so far and the photos too! Good luck on your efforts and I hope you get it working. I'm glad to help you
along, if there is anything I can do for you, just let me know.
Burt @ CATWERKS
Even a "bad" motor would hum or give you some indication that it is drawing current. Make sure there is power to the
motor by putting an AC voltmeter or even a light bulb across the input wires. It is likely a connection that has failed
would be my inclination. Motor windings do not normally go open. Another way would be to put an ohm meter
across the motor input and check to see that it is not an open circuit. If you don't have any test equipment, maybe
you have a friend that could help you. Anyone with a simple volt-ohm meter could help you out on this. It could easily be the
power cord plug end or the cord... Try a different cord to eliminate that possibility. I have to give you credit for your
perseverance so far and the photos too! Good luck on your efforts and I hope you get it working. I'm glad to help you
along, if there is anything I can do for you, just let me know.
Burt @ CATWERKS
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 11,378
It looks to me that, unless it's something simple like a bad power cord connection or faulty switch, it probably has a bad winding. I'd just replace it
Mark
ps Check all the splices where the wires connect to the windings- you might get lucky and find a bad solder joint or crimp connection. Make sure the centrifugal switch mechanism is free to move and the contacts show continuity
Mark
ps Check all the splices where the wires connect to the windings- you might get lucky and find a bad solder joint or crimp connection. Make sure the centrifugal switch mechanism is free to move and the contacts show continuity
Last edited:
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- Feb 7, 2013
- Messages
- 2,496
Since the motor is seemingly dead, I suppose it is possible that an overload relay or fuse imbedded in the windings
that could be open. I have seen that in well pumps and such. I have to agree with Mark that a replacement motor might be
the best approach to solving the problem if you have made a reasonable effort to get it to work.
that could be open. I have seen that in well pumps and such. I have to agree with Mark that a replacement motor might be
the best approach to solving the problem if you have made a reasonable effort to get it to work.
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
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- 11,378
Check for continuity at the power cord prongs and also at the two orange wire nut connectors. Perhaps it was never wired correctly? Anything is possible
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- Jan 2, 2016
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Looks like the end of the shaft is worn. the only fix would be to clean it up, and fit an undersize bushing, or bearing.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
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An afterthought~
It occurs to me that there is usually (at least often) a switch at the lower end of travel for the "arm". Such that when the cut finishes, the motor is shut off. Could be something external~~~
.
It occurs to me that there is usually (at least often) a switch at the lower end of travel for the "arm". Such that when the cut finishes, the motor is shut off. Could be something external~~~
.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,319
I'd start at the saw plug and work towards the motor. Plenty of reasons why a motor won't start and not all of them have to do with the motor - no point replacing the motor if the switch is bust. Those split phase motors are pretty reliable, only real issues are either a sticking centrifugal switch or bad bearings.