Bandsaw problem

That's what mine did, was not as extreme as yours though. I couldn't find a way to hold the base to rebore the pin hole with the mill I have so I was able to set it flat on my mill table. and shimed the corners so yhat the pin was square and straight with the spindle. I did drill two holes through the base to hold it down to the mill. I then used a flycutter to machine the vise area down. I pretty much used all my travels in X and Y to do this on my PM 727 but got it done none the less.
 
ok so for every one following.The pin has set screws on both the front and rear of the arm so it doesn't turn in the arm, only the table. So I pulled the pin out and it is perfect tight both on the arm and table. My solution was to take the pin and machine flats on both sides plus turn the od 30 tho only as far as the arm sets not back into were it rides on the table. then drilled setscrews opposite of the two already there. Now by loosening the from screw and tightening the rear I move the arm back and forth plus up and down. pretty sure now i i can shave the silver off a quarter. that's for every one that chimed in. sure was a learning curve for me.
 
It may possible to correct your out-of-vertical situation by modifying the pivot pin. I could go into all the details here, but all the heavy lifting has already been done.. Go on over to the 4x6 bandsaw forum on groups.io and search the file section for "fixing vertical squareness or worn pivot bearings". Basically one side of the pin is filed down to correct the out of square condition, then fixed in place with grub screws.

I say "may be possible" because your bandsaw sounds like it is VERY out of square, perhaps too much to fix by modding the pivot pin. Dropping one side will cock the pin over at an angle. If that angle has to be greater than what the clearance between the pin and bearing on the other side will permit, you're outta luck and are looking at a more extensive mod.

For a simple get'er dun solution, you can figure out what angle you need to tilt your work in order to compensate for the out of vertical condition. If I need a dead-nuts-on vertical cut I use a spacer in this manner:

4x6 vertical.jpeg
The work is installed in the vise, then the extender is clamped to it with the C clamp. Then the extender is lifted up and my spacer (a penny turned out to be the right thickness) is put under the extender. Tighten down the vise and cut.

The extender makes it possible to place the spacer at the same spot to get consistent results. If the work is long enough to extend past the cutout in the bed, move the spacer to the right. You're basically looking for the same distance between the spacer on the left and the work's pivot point on the right.
 
sundown57 said:
ok so for every one following.The pin has set screws on both the front and rear of the arm so it doesn't turn in the arm, only the table. So I pulled the pin out and it is perfect tight both on the arm and table. My solution was to take the pin and machine flats on both sides plus turn the od 30 tho only as far as the arm sets not back into were it rides on the table. then drilled setscrews opposite of the two already there. Now by loosening the from screw and tightening the rear I move the arm back and forth plus up and down. pretty sure now i i can shave the silver off a quarter. that's for every one that chimed in. sure was a learning curve for me.
Click to expand...
PICS?
 
Great solution sundown57! It never occurred to me to modify the pin shaft itself- brilliant!
-Mark
 
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