Bearing heater question

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Batmanacw

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I have never used a bearing heater in my life. I do not know if there is a principle behind their use that is safer for the bearing than just using my toaster oven to warm up a bearing.

Educate me on bearing heaters.

Is there a proper temperature to heat a bearing to help it on but not harm it?

I've pressed on many bearings but never a hot one.
 
Sealed bearing or open tapered? What's it going on? What's going to be used to push it home?
 
I've changed bearings on a motorcycle triple tree stem. Removing them was no big deal; heat them with a torch, get the started up cut into the side with a dremel enough to split it.
To install the replacement I heated it in the oven (250 F), got it started over and used a length of PVC sched. 80 to force it quickly (BFH) down on the stem.
I am a Luddite who has practiced holding his tongue correctly.
 
I have never heard an exact number, I shoot for 165-175 Fahrenheit. I don't want to see much if any color change.
I use a hot plate probably 40 years old lol
This getting old shirt is weirding me out...today the 40 year old dude says "he likes my truck, sir" ooh that hurt...lol
 
Bone Head said:
I've changed bearings on a motorcycle triple tree stem. Removing them was no big deal; heat them with a torch, get the started up cut into the side with a dremel enough to split it.
To install the replacement I heated it in the oven (250 F), got it started over and used a length of PVC sched. 80 to force it quickly (BFH) down on the stem.
I am a Luddite who has practiced holding his tongue correctly.
Click to expand...
I've got a beautiful 30 ton press along with a 1 and 3 ton arbor press along with plenty of BFH's.

I just want to get a sense of how to utilize a bearing heater if I find next to free at the flea market.
 
I'm seeing a maximum of 250⁰ F. Is this accurate? Are there sealed bearings that cannot take that kind of heat? I don't think you'll see color change at 250⁰.

Just saw 230⁰ recommended by SKF.
 
I have a cone mount bearing heater. It heats the inner which is what you want when slipping a bearing onto a shaft and can't use a press. It heats the outer less so it can still go on a shaft and not hang up if it also fits into a housing for the outer diameter. I use a heat stick, mark the bearing and take it off when the mark starts to melt. You can over heat a bearing and cook the grease so care needs to be taken. Any time you can use a press you are better off but must also press on the correct part of the bearing. A candleabra incandescent bulb can work for some bearings as well. Dave
 
I just use the toaster oven when the wife isn't home. Helps to put the male part in the freezer if it'll fit. (Or freeze the bearing and heat the housing if it's going into a bore)
 
I just installed four big (2-1/4" bore) taper roller cones by heating them in a toaster oven. I degreased them before putting them in the oven, as preservative oil could cause discoloration at a lower temperature and confuse me. I had the oven set for 300 degrees F but kept checking the inner race with a non-contact thermometer and pulled the cone out when it hit 240 degrees. They all slipped on the shafts easily despite measuring 0.0015 interference fit when cold.

I installed the cups by chilling them in dry ice until they measured 0.001 smaller than the bore. They needed a little coaxing to get aligned properly, then tapped in with a dead blow hammer easily.

The project was a double reduction differential in a 1955 Austin Western Super 88 road grader.

Grader 1.comp.jpg
 
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