Beauty in The Beast: Webb 5BVK Barn Find/Conversion

[Charlieman22]

Alternative attachment of handwheel(s):
Leave the pully(s) alone. Remove the nut from the end of the shaft. fabricate a stub shaft with internal thread to replace the nut.
Screw the stub shaft onto the leadscrew. Lock (jam) the stub shaft to the leadscrew by means of a coaxial setscrew accessed via a through hole from hand wheel end of shaft. Include some features (flats or hex) on exposed stub shaft for a wrench.

That would be slick - and it would ensure I was dead nuts center on the shaft.
It's better - no doubt - I'm just not sure how I would execute it without a lathe.
(I'm going to need to find a free lathe!)
I would likely need to turn down the stub shaft so that it fit the ID of the handle - while keeping enough beef to replace the nut on the screw.
But there is clearly room for this solution - and it would be super slick.

 

[Papa Charlie]

So, did I miss something, did you bring this home already or is that still in the plan?

 

[extropic]

That would be slick - and it would ensure I was dead nuts center on the shaft.
It's better - no doubt - I'm just not sure how I would execute it without a lathe.
(I'm going to need to find a free lathe!)
I would likely need to turn down the stub shaft so that it fit the ID of the handle - while keeping enough beef to replace the nut on the screw.
But there is clearly room for this solution - and it would be super slick.

Incorporate some sort of seal (lip, o-ring, labyrinth or brush) where the shaft penetrates the drive cover(s). Chips in the cog belt = no good.

There is a sub-forum on H-M for requesting parts to be made. Sketch up what you want and . . .

CAN YOU MAKE SOMETHING FOR ME?

You need a part or some tooling. You can't or don't want to make it. Maybe someone here can do it for you.

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[matthewsx]

First, I would say to do whatever @JimDawson says, I know it seems like just putting handles on might be the easiest way but it might not for several reasons. Jim has done a ton of these control retrofits and will be able to steer you in the right direction.

 

[Dabbler]

OK in lieu of hand wheels, you could try what This Old Tony on youtube did: he made a box with 3 encoders, and they function as his hand wheels.
Here's his overview, and check out 17:38 for a description of his handwheel 'replacements'...

 

[spumco]

Keyless locking shaft coupling. NO MACHINING.




Find one that has an OD the same as your pulley ID, and stick a handwheel shaft inside. Tighten bolts, and it expands/contract and locks the handwheel shaft to the pulley.

Check out Fenner Drives for an overview of types.

Many varieties, some are self-aligning. Available on ebay.

 

[JimDawson]

Alternative attachment of handwheel(s):
Leave the pully(s) alone. Remove the nut from the end of the shaft. fabricate a stub shaft with internal thread to replace the nut.
Screw the stub shaft onto the leadscrew. Lock (jam) the stub shaft to the leadscrew by means of a coaxial setscrew accessed via a through hole from hand wheel end of shaft. Include some features (flats or hex) on exposed stub shaft for a wrench.

Purchase handwheels with folding handle (or no handle). In CNC mode, a protruding handle is not friendly.

This is the really simple way to do it. ^^^^^^^^ My machine handwheels are attached by a similar method.

I just bored the handwheel to be a tight slip fit on the shaft, and turned the OD of the flange to fit a set collar. Tighten the set collar, it is just held with a friction fit, just squeezes the handwheel hub onto the shaft. Have not had a problem with them coming loose. Actually works the same as that hub that @spumco shows above but only costs a few $. Both require machining so that part of it is a wash.

 

[Charlieman22]

So, did I miss something, did you bring this home already or is that still in the plan?

Ha - no - it comes home anytime between tomorrow and Friday. Spare time on my hands on a Sunday and the desire to get some early input from the crowed prompted me to go ahead and post. Plus, now, what ever foolishness I get into on the move - you guys can stand on the side line and enjoy.

OK in lieu of hand wheels, you could try what This Old Tony on youtube did: he made a box with 3 encoders, and they function as his hand wheels.
Here's his overview, and check out 17:38 for a description of his handwheel 'replacements'...

Oh, man, I love TOT.
If my control box was talking to my drives - I would probably do this just for the pure ease - in the short run.
And I admittedly have only turned the crank on a mill 3 times in my life - two of which were last week looking at mills...
But I would like to have a manual handle in the end.
I like the feeling and the precision of moving the table like this.
Maybe I will find it useless one day - but going in - manually operable is my goal if I can.

First, I would say to do whatever @JimDawson says, I know it seems like just putting handles on might be the easiest way but it might not for several reasons. Jim has done a ton of these control retrofits and will be able to steer you in the right direction.

Oh - without Jim's input - I wouldn't even be posting on the right forum...

Incorporate some sort of seal (lip, o-ring, labyrinth or brush) where the shaft penetrates the drive cover(s). Chips in the cog belt = no good.

There is a sub-forum on H-M for requesting parts to be made. Sketch up what you want and . . .

Good head's up on both fronts. Much appreciated.

Find one that has an OD the same as your pulley ID, and stick a handwheel shaft inside. Tighten bolts, and it expands/contract and locks the handwheel shaft to the pulley.

Check out Fenner Drives for an overview of types.

Many varieties, some are self-aligning. Available on ebay.

Like concept - but not sure there will be space for the lock device between OD of screw's nut and pulley's ID. Also - how would it lock to the pulley? Just press in?

This is the really simple way to do it. ^^^^^^^^ My machine handwheels are attached by a similar method.

I just bored the handwheel to be a tight slip fit on the shaft, and turned the OD of the flange to fit a set collar. Tighten the set collar, it is just held with a friction fit, just squeezes the handwheel hub onto the shaft. Have not had a problem with them coming loose. Actually works the same as that hub that @spumco shows above but only costs a few $. Both require machining so that part of it is a wash.

Jim - I read this twice - but couldn't quite decipher.
I just bored the handwheel to be a tight slip fit on the shaft, - CHECK
turned the OD of the flange to fit a set collar. - What is a set collar? (bracing for the tomatoes)
Can't quite vision this assembly - but would like to!

 

[JimDawson]

im - I read this twice - but couldn't quite decipher.
I just bored the handwheel to be a tight slip fit on the shaft, - CHECK
turned the OD of the flange to fit a set collar. - What is a set collar? (bracing for the tomatoes)
Can't quite vision this assembly - but would like to!

You made me get out of my chair and go out the the shop and tear my mill apart, took the better part of 2 minutes.

Note: set collar, also called shaft collar.

This is my handwheel mount system. There were originally a keyed bore and held with a set screw. A really bad system for longevity, the keyways wallow out and things get sloppy. Keyways in general are a bad system on a CNC machine, hence those lock collars above. But anything that clamps onto the shaft is much better than a key and setscrew. These have been trouble free for years now.

In place. No keys or set screws, just held by the friction of the collar squeezing the hub onto the shaft


The end of the ball screw shaft with the stub spacer for the handwheel. Yours would be an extended nut.



Set collar in place on the handwheel



And set collar removed from the handwheel hub. I bushed the bore of the handwheel because it was wallowed and cracking out from flopping around on the shaft for quite a while. You can see what the original OD of the handwheel hub was.

 

[spumco]

Like concept - but not sure there will be space for the lock device between OD of screw's nut and pulley's ID. Also - how would it lock to the pulley? Just press in?

Keyless shaft couplings have a split ring on the OD and ID. These rings have tapers that match the two drive rings (things with screws). When you tighten the bolts, the end rings get closer together, which forces the OD ring out, and the ID ring in. Expands and contracts at the same time.

If you can get a bit of shaft threaded to take the place of the existing nut, that'd be the way to go. If a custom handwheel shaft thingie isn't an option for whatever the reason, the coupling I mentioned is a possibility.