Bench grinder 3400 RPM vs 1700 for lathe bits

dkccfl

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Hi all, kicking around the idea of replacing my 6 inch 3400 RPM bench grinder with a 8 inch 1700 RPM unit. Would love to get some replies on if this would be an improvement for grinding cutting bits for a mini lathe.

I have a use for the 6 inch out in the forge for fast (rough) de burring and other fast grinding so it won't go to waste.

Thanks, Dale
 
If you look on a site such as Grizzly you will find a large verity of bench grinders sized from 6-10inch in various speeds and powers. Keep in mind that they are and particularity the cheaper ones designed to a price point for their class and not for specific practical use. In the machinery hand book you can find the chapter on grinding speeds and there application for the ideal grind. Though most of the grinders you will see will disregard this in favor of the most cost effective motor and wheel size combo.

The variable that you are missing out on to consider is vibration, the primary factor between a 50$ and a 500$ grinder of an identical silhouette. Vibration will give you a rougher finish, degrade the wheels faster, distract you from holding a perfect angle, and round over that all critical cutting edge. Just try to hand sharpen a twist drill on a heavily vibrating grinder, you can't effectively do the gentle touch off and role needed.

Back when I was starting my trade school, I had only watched some instructional videos and used a sub 100$ grinder. I had no idea that was anything better out there, though when I got the chance you use the 12inch grinders at Dawson college, it was a different world. The coarse wheel hogs away metal, and the fine wheel leaves a superb finish. The touch off to spark is without kick or sputter, and following curves is a breeze. So much so that I spend some lunch breaks grinding my own set of HSS blanks into a set of full turning tools for home use, having not considered using the cheap grinder at home.

What I recommend to you is to set a budget then get the best 6inch grinder you can afford and place on some name brand wheels. Put the factory wheels on the shelf to later use only for de-burring on the retired grinder. A good pair of Norton or Camel grinding wheels will cost more than a cheap grinder, but they're worth it.
 
I was astounded by how much more efficiently Norton wheels cut HSS than the gray stones that came on my grinder. I spent too long getting them balanced, but it was a teaching moment. (be sure to ballence them before putting them to use.)
 
If you look on a site such as Grizzly you will find a large verity of bench grinders sized from 6-10inch in various speeds and powers. Keep in mind that they are and particularity the cheaper ones designed to a price point for their class and not for specific practical use. In the machinery hand book you can find the chapter on grinding speeds and there application for the ideal grind. Though most of the grinders you will see will disregard this in favor of the most cost effective motor and wheel size combo.

The variable that you are missing out on to consider is vibration, the primary factor between a 50$ and a 500$ grinder of an identical silhouette. Vibration will give you a rougher finish, degrade the wheels faster, distract you from holding a perfect angle, and round over that all critical cutting edge. Just try to hand sharpen a twist drill on a heavily vibrating grinder, you can't effectively do the gentle touch off and role needed.

Back when I was starting my trade school, I had only watched some instructional videos and used a sub 100$ grinder. I had no idea that was anything better out there, though when I got the chance you use the 12inch grinders at Dawson college, it was a different world. The coarse wheel hogs away metal, and the fine wheel leaves a superb finish. The touch off to spark is without kick or sputter, and following curves is a breeze. So much so that I spend some lunch breaks grinding my own set of HSS blanks into a set of full turning tools for home use, having not considered using the cheap grinder at home.

What I recommend to you is to set a budget then get the best 6inch grinder you can afford and place on some name brand wheels. Put the factory wheels on the shelf to later use only for de-burring on the retired grinder. A good pair of Norton or Camel grinding wheels will cost more than a cheap grinder, but they're worth it.
Thanks for the reply, I'm sure a high end bench grinder would run much smoother out of the box but something I found interesting is the low end one I have now has near zero vibration running with the wheels off. Clearly the wheels and how they are mounted are the cause of the vibration. Making a snug bushing and facing the stamped washers helped a lot. Next I want to try and balance the wheels but to do that I have to make room on the arbor so the next thing I want to make is some machined washers. Still pondering the lower speed grinder, seems like it might be better for the lathe bits. Maybe a little less heat and better control?
 
The grinder speed is a factor of wheel diameter; larger wheels, less speed is required to maintain the proper speed of the wheel speed. Larger wheels have significantly more abrasive available with their larger volume. A lot of vibration in cheap grinders is from the motor's lack of balance; Iweas given a HF 10" grinder that vibrated badly, made new washers to tame wobble, replaced wheels with Norton, nothing tamed the vibration. I found a Delta triple duty grinder at an estate sale, they are a dream regarding lack of vibration and long wheel life, I had one downtown at my shop, I bought it with used wheels, used it for 15 years, and it is still going 10 years later now with the same wheels.
 
I've got an 8" Baldor and an 8" Grizzl-. Based on that.... Don't buy the Grizzl-! Replace any factory wheels with ones that match your use. For grinding HSS I like the G or H grade of Norton white wheels. Free cutting and little heat. They can be shaped with a diamond for inside curves.
 
Another thing is that when wheels are used at lower peripheral speeds they act softer than the same wheel at a higher speed, with higher wear rates but cooler grinding, one of the reasons that wheels wear faster as the diameter decreases, one reason that some grinding machines have multiple step drive pulleys to adjust RPM as the wheel wears smaller.
 
Another option.

A 3400 RPM grinder and a VFD. Jet makes a grinder with a built VFD but it’s $700.

I have a 2x72 belt grinder and I’m thinking of using the same VFD to power a bench grinder.


I can’t find a dual shaft 3 phase motor to save my life. Anyone know where I can find one? I probably just buy a single shaft Iron Horse and call it a day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1700 for sure. Faster speed causes more heat.

Strongly consider 8 inch CBN wheels they last forever and never need dressing.

This is a great place to get CBN wheels and grinders:

 
1700 for sure. Faster speed causes more heat.

Strongly consider 8 inch CBN wheels they last forever and never need dressing.

This is a great place to get CBN wheels and grinders:

Thanks for the info and link. Got me curious what a CBN wheel is and found a good read at:

Sure looks like the CBN wheels are much better, and would cure my vibration issues.

BTW - just wanted to mention for anyone that might run across this thread the difference between the 3400 RPM low end grinders and the 1700 RPM grinders is the 3400 RPM induction motors in these units have 2 polls, the 1700 RPM motor has 4. When hooked up to 60 Hz AC it sets the potential speed to 3600/1800 RPM but inductions motors require/run with a little slip. There are lots of other options for making motors run at different speeds but nothing as simple and cost effective as the induction motor.
 
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