Best "Value" Lathe Chuck, & Backplate Interchange?

by far the best video I've seen on spindle regrinds.
 
ddickey said:
by far the best video I've seen on spindle regrinds.
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Damn! Hope I don't have to go through all that! I get the idea on how to check contact, at least.
 
I just ordered some Prussian blue, and I'll get on the learning curve regarding this process.

@Dabbler - my lathe isn't a PM, it's an older Central Machinery Taiwan/Tida built 12x36. It's low mileage, and not in any way worn. The lathe chuck that came with the lathe seats down fine. The problem relates to my "quality" lathe chucks, that don't fit properly. I'll quantify the gap between the spindle and chuck as the next step. It's likely less than the .006" I mentioned previously.
 
Nesse1 said:
I'll quantify the gap between the spindle and chuck as the next step. It's likely less than the .006" I mentioned previously.
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This may well mean that you can afford to go slow and learn as you go.

The tricky part is getting the chuck to mount perpendicularly. Here's a suggestion: Glue up some wood turn it for a fairly good fit through the headstock hand have material for a boss the loosely fits inside bore of your chuck. This allows you to leave the wood in while you are working on the taper. You can use this to slide your chuck on the wood while moun ting and dismounting the chuck. By makeing this jig you can make the mounting/camming procedure to be far more consistent..

Doing this will get you your best prints when bluing.
 
Since the chucks seem to fit correctly on some spindles, and even within a few thousandths on yours I would check the dimensions of the key on your spindle and the dimensions of the keyway on the chuck.

You might also try to remove the key on your spindle and see if the chuck will mount properly.
 
Sorry about that I must have gotten some posts mixed up. I had in my head that it was an L1 chuck.
 
Looking at Gesswein stones...and there are too many options. What type should I order?

www.amazon.com

Gesswein

Gesswein Home
www.amazon.com
 
Nesse1 said:
What type should I order?
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Yeah, it can be confusing.

This is my 3rd edit, because I *used* to buy just the stones I needed, but Geisswein has changed how they do business..... You see I only order from them ever 10 or so years, and just to add to my collection, because I haven't worn out any of their stones... yet! Nowadays you have to order a set or a box of stones. No individual stones any more.

I'm afraid you will have to order a basic set of die stones, instead of just getting the 2 stones I intended, that would have been 1" wide. This set has is the 405-2063. It is only 1/2" wide, so you will have to take care to move back and forth evenly. You would use the 400 grit and up. You don't use a lot of pressure for an operation like this and plenty of flushing lube (stoning oil, WD-40, or my favourite, low-odour Varsol) The set should be less than 50 bucks.

It is a touch expensive (because of the way they package their stones now), but I'd buy a box of 12 soft finishing stones, 440-9003. These are 1200 grit, but the way they break down and their softness leaves a much better finish. They get used up much quicker than die stones. This will leave a satin finish free from any scratches from the die stones. A box of 12 is around 60 bucks.

As an alternative, you can use the 3m lapping films in the 2000 and 4000 grit (10 and 5 micron) which should give you a decent finish with good contact. The lapping film should be cheaper, depending on how it is packaged. I don't know the pricing because I've just experimented with lapping film. I usually stone and then lap using diamond paste. I wouldn't recommend this approach for a first-timer.

Here's a link to a chart of all the Geisswein stones, and what each stone is made for:


*** I have no affiliation with Geisswein - I've used their stones for over 40 years, and they are what I am familiar with. ***
 
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Maybe lap it like they do with automotive valves use valve lapping compound get 80 grit in oil if you do. I don't think I would stone it.
 
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