Blind Hole Bearing Puller Tool

Guys do these work?I would like to use it to remove some needle roller bearings for the Colchester?
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I have pulled dozens of needle bearings by tig welding a nut (or bolt) to the outer race and then pulling out with a standard slide hammer. I have tried the "hydraulic" method a few times with no luck. I also worried about the very real possibility if injecting grease in to my hands if it came out somewhere unexpected.
 
I used the hydraulic method on a blind roller bearing on the top end of my Bridgeport. This is after wrestling with it for more than a day. A needle bearing or bushing will press out easier than the roller bearing that I had. For the hole in the bottom, just insert a small circle of brass to cover the hole. As the pressure increases, the seal will be made tighter. Hold it in place with a little grease.

Since my bearing was large (1.5" or so), it took a couple packings of grease. But I had it out in about 3 minutes. It's one of those techniques that once you use it, you'll never forget it. I had issue with grease passing through the broken roller bearing seals, but the high pressure, quick onset of the grease was too much for it and the bearing popped right out. I also covered the bearing with a couple layers of plastic wrap, to keep the grease contained when I hit the piston with my rubber mallet.
 
I have the OTC set similar to the set posted. I was trying to pull a bearing on an over-rotor motor and there was a blind mounted bearing that was in a pocket that was five inches deep, and the bearing was sitting almost flush to the back of the bearing seat. This turned out to be the only method that worked to remove the bearing. Walter
 
I've never used the hydraulic method. I will have to try it some day. I do have a set of these pullers and have used them a few times. If you can adequately fit the assembly, it works just fine. I never needed to use the slide hammer yet. Mine have pulled some pretty nasty bearings. If you decide to by it, shop around, their cost varies widely.
 
Guys do these work?I would like to use it to remove some needle roller bearings for the Colchester?
s-l225.jpg
We bought a set from HF in our maint shop and they worked well for me--I don't think the set went small enough to work on hand tool or very large blind bearings but worked good on the sizes they covered---Dave
 
I used the hydraulic method on a blind roller bearing on the top end of my Bridgeport. This is after wrestling with it for more than a day. A needle bearing or bushing will press out easier than the roller bearing that I had. For the hole in the bottom, just insert a small circle of brass to cover the hole. As the pressure increases, the seal will be made tighter. Hold it in place with a little grease.
Since my bearing was large (1.5" or so), it took a couple packings of grease. But I had it out in about 3 minutes. It's one of those techniques that once you use it, you'll never forget it. I had issue with grease passing through the broken roller bearing seals, but the high pressure, quick onset of the grease was too much for it and the bearing popped right out. I also covered the bearing with a couple layers of plastic wrap, to keep the grease contained when I hit the piston with my rubber mallet.
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Great to see a 1st hand description by someone who has done it! Good idea to use a small disc to block off the bottom hole.

The hydraulic method works just fine, motor mechanics have been using it to remove pilot bearings in the rear of crankshafts for a over a century now. Some are bronze bushes and some are needle roller bearings. My 1980's 351 Ford had a needle bearing and I used a piece of bright mild steel as a "piston".

Would you believe, just yesterday I showed my 15 year old grandson how to remove a bearing from a blind hole. He is giving an OS 81 4stroke a new set of bearings but one end of the camshaft is supported by a shielded race in a small (and deep) blind bore in the crankcase. That had him scratching his head! Anyway, Grandpa to the rescue, proved yet again 50yrs of engineering experience comes in handy! It was a good lesson...

As for whether to replace your bearing or not... tough decision. Partly depends on how difficult it is to get at it for a possible future repair, could you pull that housing out for a look to see how it's going? The surface of the shaft appears slightly worn, but not to the extent of metal flaking off, but still could do more damage to a new bearing than leaving it to happily go on for another few decades, especially if it will have an easy life. Difficult to assess without seeing the rest of the gearbox and knowing the machine's history.

Regards, RossG
radial1951
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Hi. I have pulled tapers and needles by making up a cone type thick washer with a maximum OD that is bigger than the bore of the race but less than the housing bore behind the race. Put 2 flats on the side so you can pass it through the race and a tapped hole in the middle. Feed it through , turn it. Put the screw in and pull it out. You need a little space behind the race to do this but it works excellently. Regards Bill
 
Hi. I have pulled tapers and needles by making up a cone type thick washer with a maximum OD that is bigger than the bore of the race but less than the housing bore behind the race. Put 2 flats on the side so you can pass it through the race and a tapped hole in the middle. Feed it through , turn it. Put the screw in and pull it out. You need a little space behind the race to do this but it works excellently. Regards Bill
kinda like axle bearing pullers are
 
Should the hydraulic method blow out the casting behind the bearing/bushing, don't despair. Go around behind it and drive the bearing/bushing out with a drift. When replacing it, cover the hole with a circle of .010 shimstock before inserting the bearing/bushing.
 
For Daryl.From what i remember of my University days (a long time ago in a Galaxy far far away) no liquid is "sensibly"
compressible.Then i may be wrong.
Aris
 
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