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Boring head.

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Hukshawn

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#1
Okay, now I'm just peeved off... This is just right silly.

I got a boring head for Christmas with the matching 1/2" boring bars.
The gosh forsaken boring head is a a right hand threaded attachment to the arbor. Okay, fine. I modified an arbor to thread on. Done, perfect. Go grab a boring bar, fresh from the package, wipe the gobbity-goop off, spend 20 mins touching up the grind, toss her in, "ooh wow, no deburring to speak of", I say aloud. Fine, I'll deal with that.

The Gat-Darn, McFreaking, SOB, boring bars want to be turned counter clockwise in the side holes.... With a right handed threaded arbor attachment... it'll just spin right ofd the second I touch the work...

I'm trying to cut a concave gullet in the side of a surface guage base. Thought, what a perfect time to whip out this new boring head.

For Chris Snakes....


Edited *not edited* for language. I assure you, my garage was not PG-13 just now...

Just a long line of dissapointments today.
IMG_20180204_222440.jpg
 
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Hukshawn

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#2
I guess I'll turn the bar and bore up instead of down... But cooome onnnnnn....
 

Technical Ted

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#3
Yeah, with that bar probably you'll end up turning the bar 180 degrees and bore from the bottom up instead of the top down. There's more than one way to skin a cat!

Those bar are better suited to be used in the end holes when boring straight down.

Ted
 

bluechips

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#4
How about a little thread locker on the mounting threads.
 

mikey

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#5
Shawn, you need a left hand bar to use in the horizontal position of a boring head, with the tip on the other side of the head. Sorry you had such a bad day.
 

Chipper5783

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#6
I guess I'll turn the bar and bore up instead of down... But cooome onnnnnn....
Sure. Figuring out how to get the task done with the tooling and equipment that you have is called "machining". It really does not matter how well your shop is set up, or how extensive a tooling collection you have - eventually (frequently) a job/operation will come along that you don't have the ideal arrangement for completing.

Machining is just another of those things which provide one the opportunity to practice & develop patience. If that is the sort of thing that gets you all torque'd up - then I predict you will have opportunity to grow your patience.
 

Hukshawn

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#7
Yeahhh I know. It was just one of those things...

In hind sight, I should have just taken the time set this up on the rotary table and used an end mill. This 1/2 boring bar is singing like a convict in the interrogation room begging for a plea bargon!
 

Hukshawn

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#8
Oh. Well. I'd that wasn't enough, the 2hp motor on the head just blew up in a cloud of smoke... The capacitor blew. And there may be something wrong with the drum switch too.
In the panic, I turned the motor off.... It kept running. So I pulled the disconnect beside the mill... Let that be a lesson... ALWAYS have another means to disconnect all phases as close to the device as possible. Don't rely on a breaker however far away... I let the motor stop, turned the drum switch off, plugged the disconnect back in, and it hums. It'll start when I turn the switch on, but loud humming... Pulled the disconnect....

I'm going to bed. This sounds like a job for tomorrow Shawn....
Good night world! Thanks, and screw you.
 

bfd

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#9
pin the adapter to the head. go right thru the threads along the axis of the threads once it locks together it will not unscrew . bill
 

cathead

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#10
I had the same dilemma so started making my own boring bars with carbide tips. That way you can orient the
cutter in the configuration to your liking. I have been using some scraps of H-13 material and adding some weld
for a place to hold the carbide. The carbides can be silver soldered on quite easily with a gas torch. For bolted on
carbides, I use a softer material than the H-13 as it has an extremely hard surface and makes threading an arduous task.
Most new boring bars need to be fine tuned anyway so one might as well make his own.
 

benmychree

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#11
A note regarding the use of harder stronger materials for such things as boring bars; it makes no difference in ridgidity using alloy steels, hardened or not, all steels have very nearly the same modulus of elasticity; a full hardened alloy steel is no stiffer than soft mild steel. The only way to increase stiffness to the diameter (in this case). As an example, increasing a boring bar or arbor from 1" to 1-1/4" diameter increases its stiffness by a factor of 5.
The job shown is clearly not a job for a boring bar of the type shown. One writer suggested pinning the threads to prevent the head from threading off; this would be next to impossible, as the boring heads are quite hard, besides which, I would suspect that the threaded part would be inaccessable for drilling.
 

Hukshawn

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#12
The threaded portion of the head and arbor is quite short. Only about 1/4"-3/8" worth of engagement. Drilling a hole and pinning it could quite possibly weaken the structure too. I ran the bit in reverse from the bottom up for this operation. I got the job done. I realize none of this is designed for this operation, especially with cheap tooling.
The alternative would have been to take the time and set up the rotary table. But I saw a short video Tom Lipton did where he did the same thing. Albiet, a MUCH better mill and boring head.
 
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petertha

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#13
Even in upright mode, I've had good success with using insert style boring bars in the head. I turn the (16mm) OD shanks down to 0.500" bboring head hole & mill a flat for the setscrew. Just get your self a lefty, they are a whopping $10 on AliExpress.
 

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Tozguy

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#14
Put a set screw in mine, no problem drilling or tapping the boring head. I do not intend to rely on the set screw however if it can be avoided. It is better to run the boring head CW with the right tools.
 

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petertha

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#15
Or, can you raise your work off the mill table with sufficient clearance, turn the boring bar 180-deg to how the picture is shown & cut from bottom to top in the conventional direction?
 
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