Boring tool

Hi Charles
were you able to get the boring head off? They can be stubborn! Is this the type of quick-change tooling you are using? They look like they would be pretty great. This was a set I saw online.
Martin
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mmcmdl said:
This is true , and what fun would you get out of that ? :grin: Try a spanner wrench to break it free if you have one .
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I tried that without success. I was given the phone number to Beaver and will give them a call today. Last night I did try again but with mapp gas which was my last resort and this SOB won't budge. It doesn't look to be cross threaded. Ideally I would like to use my pipe vise to hold the body but I don't want to damage it. When I speak with the manufacturer later if that doesn't help I'm using plan "B" where I will cut the stem off the adaptor and drill out the remainder and go from there. Thanks for your reply.
 
Martin W said:
Hi Charles
were you able to get the boring head off? They can be stubborn! Is this the type of quick-change tooling you are using? They look like they would be pretty great. This was a set I saw online.
Martin
View attachment 436860
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Good morning Martin, first thanks very much for adding me to your Follow list. Secondly I have to say your tractor looks beautiful. Love the color and the sheet metal is straight a an arrow, first class rig. Yes the shank looks the same. The hole at the upper end of the stem is puzzling. I will post my findings after I speak with the manufacturer (Beaver) later this morning. I have to think the adaptor or the head is not a one off. That adaptor I think would hold other manufacturers boring heads. Thank you for posting the photo.
 
MrWhoopee said:
Unless you need to preserve the shank, turn it to 3/4" (or 5/8") and move on. I prefer short, straight shanks on chucks and boring heads.
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Thanks for your'e suggestion. I Also considered that as an option but I would rather use it with an R8 adaptor.
 
heat it with a torch. I'll bet it was loctited on. first disassemble the criterion head to avoid cooking it.
Then heat the beaver tool, see if the heat releases the loctite.
 
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woodchucker said:
heat it with a torch. I'll bet it was locktited on. first disassemble the criterion head to avoid cooking it.
Then heat the beaver tool, see if the heat releases the locktite.
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Hi, Tried that last night with no success. Thanks for your'e reply.
 
Sounds like you don't want the Beaver. Might as well machine it off in the lathe and bore out the threaded portion in the boring head. Half an hour and you will be done. Well maybe an hour.
 
mickri said:
Sounds like you don't want the Beaver. Might as well machine it off in the lathe and bore out the threaded portion in the boring head. Half an hour and you will be done. Well maybe an hour.
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Yes, I mentioned that on my post above plan "B" would have to be used to remove the adaptor from the head. Thanks for your'e reply.
 
Another thought. I have a round column mill. It has an R8 spindle. Using the drawbar to change tooling is a real drag as far as I am concerned. So I went with ER32 collets. Much easier for me to change collets compared to getting a stool to stand on so I can go through the drawbar dance. I got an R8 ER32 collet chuck. I have never removed that chuck. Everything is held in an ER32 collet. If I was in your situation I would do like MrWhoopee suggested and machine the Beaver down to a convenient size to fit in whatever collet system you are using.
 
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