BP Power Feed

Bruce you are a bad influence on us old timers. Real men have a strong left arm, and can spin the Z crank handle at about 200 rpm's. We don't need no stinkin power feed on the Z axis. However I must admit that after 20 years at work with with no power feed on the X axis, and another 20 years in my own shop, I finally broke down and purchased one. I suppose once it's installed the next step down the slippery slope will be Z axis power feed.
 
I added it as well. It's so nice!! I saw your write up and video before i did mine. It was helpful! Thanks!
Jeff in Long Beach
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I received my Align 500X power feed yesterday and attempted to install it. Unfortunately I ran into a snag. Not with the Align unit, but rather with the machine itself. When I got the machine some 20 years ago it was missing the bearing, housing, scale and crank handle on the right side of the table. It was originally fitted with a Bridgeport F8 table drive that had long since disappeared.

I measured the gap and machined a shaft and coupling to extend the leadscrew through a new bearing plate and mount a new scale and crank handle. All has worked fine, but here comes the rub (literally). Although the shaft I made works fine with the manual handle is a bit too short to install the new power feed. The crank handle will literally rub on the face of the power feed box. It's oh so close, but not quite long enough.

I've seen adds for replacement shafts, but most are in the $75.00 to $100.00 range. That seems like a bit more than I want to spend at this stage. I'm wondering if anyone here has run into the same problem, and if so did you make your own extension shaft, or were you able to find one at a more reasonable price? I'm not averse to making a new slightly longer shaft, but would like to know how others (if any) have addressed the problem.

The other slightly disturbing problem is that the only installation instructions for the X drive appear to be a single picture in the included manual, and a video with Chinese narrative, and English sub titles. That wouldn't be so bad IF the parts in the kit matched the parts in the video and/or instructions. The kit includes a number of shims not addressed in either the manual or the video, and is missing a spacer ring shown in the video. It also has an extended hex nut not addressed in either place.

Maybe I missed more recent videos, a newer manual, or maybe old age has just caught up with me. In any case for those of you that have installed the X feed kit are there videos or instructions out there that actually match the parts that come in the kit?
 
Well Project I have the same problem,boy I was not figuring on that after watching the Youtube on how easy it is.Dang bad luck. Wind been taken out of my sailBP.jpgBP1.jpg
 
Well in my case I think it's literally back to the drawing board. I'll draw up a new shaft. Make it about an inch longer than the current one and reassemble everything. Once I determine exactly how much longer the shaft should be I'll cut it to length and thread the end.
 
I'm guessing I'll have to do the same thing,the lead screw I guess is 3/4 so I'll have try make something that fit and with slot for a key and setscrew. I have check see what I got laying around to give it a try,but that be a project for another day maybe when I'm off for week. About how long did you make yours,I guess it would be the same as if I had the old PF on there.
 
I'm guessing I'll have to do the same thing,the lead screw I guess is 3/4 so I'll have try make something that fit and with slot for a key and setscrew. I have check see what I got laying around to give it a try,but that be a project for another day maybe when I'm off for week. About how long did you make yours,I guess it would be the same as if I had the old PF on there.

The lead screw on my machine (1972 Bridgeport series I is .812" (13/16") with an 1/8" key which makes things a bit tougher. I'll either have to make a new coupling, or get a 3/4" one and bore it. Part of the current problem is that whoever bored the original coupling was off center. The bearing in the manual setup could absorb the off center with no impact on the effort needed to crank the handle. The power feed has much closer tolerance and binds slightly with the off center shaft.

I made an offer on 2 new couplings. If the seller accepts the offer it shouldn't take long to make a shaft and complete the job. If he doesn't accept the offer I'll be making some out of DOM tube. That might take a while with all the other things going on around the house right now. At least for now the original manual crank handle is back in place and working fine. Since I've done without a power feed for 20 years another few days shouldn't make much difference.
 
Well I was checking prices for new lead screw since mine has wear which is in center.But those cost 285.00 so that’s out question for me.Going pop that coupling off then try measure the shaft
 
To minimize the effect of the wear you can replace the brass nuts. In most cases there's more wear on the nuts than the lead screw itself. The X axis nut is a little over $37.00 from H&W machine repair.

If yours is an older machine with a single "split nut" the nut can be removed and totally separated at the split and reinstalled. Mine had the split nut. I separated it into 2 pieces some 15 years ago and reduced the play to about .008". They come new from the factory with .003" to .005"
 
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